454 into 60

[tunegoon]

You can run a restrictor.
JEGS 51105 JEGS Water Restrictors

A lot of circle track guys run them. They also aren't idling a lot. I prefer a quality thermostat on a street vehicle. If it is overheating then you need to increase efficency.

 

[brokenparts]

Looks good man... that's pretty tight clearance with the fan. I'm afraid of that too. Are you going to run a shroud? I may go with a ford or contour fan depending on clearance.

 

[coolotisdog]

Looks good man... that's pretty tight clearance with the fan. I'm afraid of that too. Are you going to run a shroud? I may go with a ford or contour fan depending on clearance.

Yeah I don't know, I have the shroud off the donor truck and I can make it fit if I need to. Ill probably just run it without a shroud and see how it does. There is a guy here who ran a contour fan with his tbi and he never could keep it cool, but who knows. I got the fan in just far enough to get it off if I need to so it should be good.

 

[brokenparts]

my first choice would be a mechanical fan too... they just seem to work better. Losing HP shouldnt be a concern with your 454.

 

[Slowerthanu]

Yeah I don't know, I have the shroud off the donor truck and I can make it fit if I need to. Ill probably just run it without a shroud and see how it does. There is a guy here who ran a contour fan with his tbi and he never could keep it cool, but who knows. I got the fan in just far enough to get it off if I need to so it should be good.

My bet, from personal experience, is that it will run warm without a shroud. One thing to also consider is the smaller engine bay that you have. It is gonna get warm in there.

 

[ntsqd]

Yeah I am, not right this second but after I get it driving I def will. It's like 115 here right now so its a necessity. My friend Kurtis did a TBI swap last year, and he had a guy here in town make some lines and braze in the ports on both the high and low side, so I'm just gonna do that. I need to get a chevy compressor though, originally I was planning on fabbing a bracket to hold my toyota compressor, but I don't know, I'm pretty much leaning toward the chevy compressor.

Another thing I did with my 2f and I am planning on doing with this motor is running it with no thermostat. Here is Arizona it isn't really a necessity because even in the winters we hardly ever see anything below 45 and I do not plan on moving up north any time soon. On a carbed motor I don't think it makes much difference because there is no computer to read temp sensor and adjust. I have read up on this and it seems like people are split on this decision. Some people say its a HUGE mistake and that your engine will actually run hotter because the coolant is flowing too fast to absorb any heat. Other people say its better because your coolant is constantly flowing. I seem to lean toward the latter, and so that's why I'm not using a thermostat. I guess we'll find out right?

The water pump needs a restriction at the outlet to pump against. Without something there it can't locally pressurize the block above the cap pressure. This leads to localized boiling at the hot spots in the coolant jacket. Unless the rest of your cooling system is mucho overkill or the engine doesn't make any power, running w/o something won't work very well.

The drag/circle race restrictors are just OK, they do provide the restriction needed, but they seriously compromise flow and add a huge amount of turbulence where it is not desirable. Notice how fast those plate type restrictors erode away. That is due to the turbulence, it's not because of the coolant or lack of coolant.

If you insist on running w/o a t-stat make the restrictor like a carb venturi. The entry taper length should 2 times as long as the small diameter, which should itself be - at minimum - 1.5 diameters long, and the exit taper length should be 3 to 5 times the small diameter. That will provide the necessary restriction w/o introducing a bunch of other undesirable traits.

As for a shroud, I carefully stashed this link from some post here about the topic:
DIY Fan Shroud - Do It Yourself Hot Rod Kustom Website

 

[coolotisdog]

Yeah my friend Kurtis did the fiberglass fan shroud on his 350, looked like a messy process but it turned out good and works good too.

On a side note, I finished hooking up the electrical. I have the fuel pump and distributor on one relay and the starter on another 30 amp relay. The problem is the fuel pump is running even if I don't have the key in the ignition, so I'm assuming that means I have the wrong wire hooked up to my relay where the ignition wire should be.

 

[coolotisdog]

Okay so for two days I have been trying to figure out why the way I had everything wired was screwed up. Number one, I never even hooked up the fusible link, not even thinking about it. Last night I sat there trying to figure out how my ignition wire was always throwing 12v if it didn't even have a power source or a key in the ignition. That was my clue that reminded me of the fact that the fusible link totally slipped my mind and I never hooked it up. Then the other half of my problem was the wiring diagrams I found for universal 5 pin relays were all wrong. The ones I found showed 30 being your power from the battery, 85 as your switch, 86 as your ground and your two 87's as your power out. I found like 5 diagrams that all showed that, but for some reason or another my relays aren't like that. On mine, 30 is the switch line and 85 is the battery power. So I got all that sorted out today. I had to go get a ground for my starter and when I got home I remembered I had to do some work tax stuff so I'll start the motor tomorrow. I'm glad that I at least figured out that wiring because that was driving me crazy.

 

[coolotisdog]

Got the motor running this morning. Need to adjust the idle since cleaning the Carb she doesn't want to idle but she ran fine holding the throttle open a little bit.

 

[brokenparts]

soooooo, did you peel out yet?

 

[coolotisdog]

soooooo, did you peel out yet?

No not yet, I did get the motor running and idling really good. Took the carb apart yesterday, cleaned it all, rebuilt it, adjusted it and got it all set up good. I still need to swap out that rear axle for the chevy 14 bolt and get a driveshaft, then I'll be able to turn those tires.

 

[coolotisdog]

Okay so here's a question. I have three relays, one for the dizzy, one for the fuel pump, and one for the starter. They are all 30 amp universal relays I got at checker. I think they might be draining the battery because they are all pretty hot even if the landcruiser doesn't run for a day. I have a brand new battery from Napa that I got on Saturday. The battery was low this morning when I went to turn the motor over. Should those relays be warm like that? Do I need bigger relays or is a 30 amp good?

 

[Granite Grinder]

We would need to know how you hooked them up i.e. what's triggering them. No they shouldn't be hot if not in use

 

[coolotisdog]

We would need to know how you hooked them up i.e. what's triggering them. No they shouldn't be hot if not in use

This is how I wired it

30 - ignition
85 - power from battery
86 - ground
87 - power out

Something must be backwards because the second I hook up the battery I can hear all the relays click. The weird thing is everything works right. Everything is only getting power when I turn the key.

 

[Granite Grinder]

This is how it should be, we'll use the fuel pump for an example:
Pin #85 should be your ignition trigger
Pin #86 should go to ground
Pin #30 should be the positive side of the battery
Pin #87 should go to the positive side of the fuel pump

Use this example to fix the other relays

You should fuse the wire going to 85 ( 5 amp should suffice)
You should fuse the wire going to 30 ( this fuse needs to be larger than the fuel pump draw, if the fuel pump draws 7 amps, make this fuse 10 amps)
HTH

 

[coolotisdog]

This is how it should be, we'll use the fuel pump for an example:
Pin #85 should be your ignition trigger
Pin #86 should go to ground
Pin #30 should be the positive side of the battery
Pin #87 should go to the positive side of the fuel pump

Use this example to fix the other relays

You should fuse the wire going to 85 ( 5 amp should suffice)
You should fuse the wire going to 30 ( this fuse needs to be larger than the fuel pump draw, if the fuel pump draws 7 amps, make this fuse 10 amps)
HTH

That's exactly how I had it hooked up the first time but when I did the fuel pump would always be hot and was running without even having the key in the ignition. Doesn't make any sense.

 

[Granite Grinder]

Then your trigger wire was wrong, I always grab that wire under (actually right after) the ignition switch, and I mean right after the switch, inside the steering column. There is a chance that the wire you've tapped is getting back fed from some other point or through the ground. Where did you tap the ignition wire (trigger)?

 

[Elbert]

where pictures of engine setup?

 

[brokenparts]

where pictures of engine setup?

x2!

 

[coolotisdog]

I am in the process of cleaning it up a bit in the engine bay since I got the motor in. All I had was my cell phone to take a picture with (the camera was upstairs and I didn't feel like walking up there for you guys).

These pictures show how low I had to go with the motor in order to get it to fit with the stock exhaust manifolds. I'm happy with it though, give me room to supercharge it some day...I have a bunch of just little crap I gotta do still. I need to go through and clean up the electrical a little bit and I also need to make a battery tray. I'm undecided as to where I am going to put the battery. Technically it would fit where I have it sitting right now, but its so snug as you can see in the picture that I don't know if I like it. I also need to put in a bunch of bolts for the plate holding down the radiator because right not there is only one in there. The canister needs to be taken off and I need to get the rest of the front back together. I'm pretty satisfied with how that chevy radiator fits in there. The fins barely fit between the opening on the body and they aren't blocked off by anything, so I think it should work good. After running the motor for about half an hour I had to shorten the hose between the pump and the manifold. All the coolant inside was actually green still. That never happened before with the 2f. The second coolant would hit that block it came out rusty, no matter how much I had that thing flushed. Either way, it was nice to see coolant that was still green.

Tomorrow I'll probably get the chevy 14 bolt under the rear, then I can get a new drive shaft made and take it to an exhaust shop.

I'll try and get some better pictures maybe tomorrow.