40-series Power Steering Gearbox SST's & Rebuild (2 Viewers)

[SuperDuperCruizer]

3. Use new seal washer.

4. Tighten the lock nut.

Tightening torque 4.0 - 5.5 kg-m (29 - 39 ft-lb)​

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

5. Recheck the preload.
Check to see that both the right and left rotations are identical.

6. Stake at three points.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

INSTALLATION

Install the parts in numerical order shown in the figure.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Tighten the gear housing set bolts and nuts.

Tightening torque 4.0 - 5.5 kg-m (29 - 39 ft-lb)​

Align the match marks on the pitman arm and the cross shaft

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Tighten the pitman arm set nut.

Tightening torque 16.5 - 19.5 kg-m (120 - 141 ft-lb)​

Tighten the coupling set bolt.

Tightening torque 2.0 - 3.0 kg-m (15 - 21 ft-lb)​

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Install the steering column tube.

Connect the pressure hose with SST [09631-22020]

Tightening torque 4.0 - 5.0 kg-m (29 - 36 ft-lb)​

Connect the return hose with SST [09631-22020]

Tightening torque 3.2 - 4.2 kg-m (24 - 30 ft-lb)​

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Fill with fluid.

Fluid ATF type Dexron
Capacity Gear housing 330 cc (20.1 cu in.)​

Bleed the system.

Boost the fluid pressure to check for fluid leakage.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Power Piston Installation Notes:

The teflon ring that tends to get ripped is the one that sits on the power piston. The edge inside of the cavity is pretty sharp and if the power piston is pushed into place without care, the teflon ring gets damaged. I was unsuccessful using the methods described in other threads and destroyed the teflon ring that came with the rebuild kit. A new one from Toyota was only a few dollars. So, I ordered a couple just in case I messed up another one trying to seat the power piston again.

I was successful the 2nd attempt using the SST [09630-22010] to turn the serrated section of the worm shaft. I carefully rotated the valve body, worm shaft and power piston counter-clockwise together by placeing a small block of wood between the valve and power piston. Through the end cap opening, I watched the teflon ring compress/slide past the edge of concern as I slowly rotated the power piston, valve body and worm shaft together. Once the teflon ring clears the edge, you can secure the valve body and rotate it clockwise to align the power piston center of the cross shaft opening.

At this time, insert the small o ring and push the valve body & power piston into place then secure it in place with the 4 bolts. This is when you'd adjust the bearing preload with the plug and nut. Make one final adjustment to align the power piston before installing the cross shaft. These steps would differ for a right hand drive power steering gearbox since the cross shaft opening is on the opposite side.

 

[merbesfield]

@SuperDuperCruizer I know this is an old thread, but have a question regarding adjustment. I had my Gearbox rebuilt be some pro company long ago and it has never been right. It still seems to have play when turning the steering wheel. Is is possible for me to adjust this play using the set screw you mention in your rebuilt tutorial? Does this screw take slack out of the box? Everything on my truck related to steering is new or rebuilt, but there is still play going down the road. I was hoping for better results. Maybe the company did a bad job? TIA.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

The pre-load on the “plug” I believe it’s called that contains the bearing race for the input bearing is one adjustment that needs to set with a torque gauge. A torque gauge works differently than a clicker style torque wrench. The cross shaft nut is the other way to tighten things up. Often over looked is the coupler that connects the steering shaft to the box. It’s cheap and easy to replace. Replacing the cross shaft, BB’s and/or power piston are the only remaining ways to address play.

 

[merbesfield]

The pre-load on the “plug” I believe it’s called that contains the bearing race for the input bearing is one adjustment that needs to set with a torque gauge. A torque gauge works differently than a clicker style torque wrench. The cross shaft nut is the other way to tighten things up. Often over looked is the coupler that connects the steering shaft to the box. It’s cheap and easy to replace. Replacing the cross shaft, BB’s and/or power piston are the only remaining ways to address play.

I do not have a torque gauge. Is there any way to seat of the pants turn the screw or whatever, to just tighten it up a bit?

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

A few more things... the center arm, tie rods are other sources of play to look at. A newly rebuilt gearbox doesn’t always fix steering play. There so many other parts that wear in the 40-series steering system. I can see why Toyota reduced the number of tie rods on the later trucks.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

A cheap one with the gauge by the handle will do... I found a fancy one on Craig’s list for $15. Unless I’m in a pinch, I try to follow the FSM exactly. Which is why I’m always scanning for retiring mechanics selling their SST’s.

 

[merbesfield]

Everything has been rebuilt or new. New TRE, rebuilt center arm and pitman connector or whatever the names are. The reason I think it is in the box is when I turn the steering wheel, you can see the column move and then a fraction of time later the gearbox will move. So there is some disconnect or delay there.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

I’ll PM you...

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

My cross shaft was okay and I didn’t need to adjust the nut. If you find there’s too much play, you’ll need this to address it. SST:

 

[SteveH]

I do not have a torque gauge. Is there any way to seat of the pants turn the screw or whatever, to just tighten it up a bit?

Yes, but a little goes a long way. Most steering box wear happens in the straight-ahead driving position (logically), so if you take any slack out of the box in that 'middle' position, you can end up with a steering box that sticks at the turning extremes. So, you can loosen the lock nut, and try turning the adjuster just a tiny bit, and then tighten the lock nut and test drive. If the wheel still easily returns to center after you go around a corner, you are likely fine. I have adjusted many steering boxes (Toyota, Ford, etc.) and you can often make a significant difference in play reduction doing this. Just go slowly and use your head.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

I agree with @SteveH There‘s a couple adjustments outside of the gearbox to look at too. As I mentioned via PM @merbesfield , the drag link is an easy one to tighten up in addition to the cross-shaft. I wouldn’t take anything apart or look into converting to another setup just yet. Did the rag joint (coupler) get replaced too? That part alone will introduce some play and if it’s the original.