Drool
40 series general tech and classifieds
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Drool
My 8yo wants it too.....
Why don't you ever drive it anymore?
I DD it a little last fall...had a weird braking episode. Everything is new but the booster...so I'm going to get one of Racer's and call it good.
I have a "company" car right now...and our weekends are usually full of other stuff. No good excuses but haven't had the discression for a $275 part (sad) or the time as my aging fleet: 99 100 w/ 205K, 98 4Runner w/ 290K and 1986 mini w/ 137K keep sneaky taking vehicle funds and time.
I have a "company" car right now...and our weekends are usually full of other stuff. No good excuses but haven't had the discression for a $275 part (sad) or the time as my aging fleet: 99 100 w/ 205K, 98 4Runner w/ 290K and 1986 mini w/ 137K keep sneaky taking vehicle funds and time.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
Cool rig, man.
It's a sin not to sell it to me.
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- #4,849
Holy snikes that is fine
Why are all the pics with the model blurry?
Has anyone had any experience with a sticking brake caliper? Right front on the 40 is still sticking after new soft lines and a thorough bleeding. About to start searching but thought that I'd hit yall up as well.
It is fine for a bit when you drive it but gets tight as you go and then starts dragging noticeably. I can open the bleeder and fluid comes out and it works fine for a while again. Bad caliper? Residual valve (although that would seem to affect both sides?)
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
Only thing I can think of is that the square cut seal on one of the pistons could be going out; that would cause the piston to not fully spring back after braking.
If that's all there is, you can buy a new set of seals from RockAuto for next to nothing.
My second guess would be the master cylinder, but considering it's only dragging in one side, I'm going with the former.
Can you pull the wheel off and look and see which pistons are dragging?
If that's all there is, you can buy a new set of seals from RockAuto for next to nothing.
My second guess would be the master cylinder, but considering it's only dragging in one side, I'm going with the former.
Can you pull the wheel off and look and see which pistons are dragging?
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Shorten the threaded rod between the pedal and the master cyl a few turns.
Just said screw it and bought a couple of rebuilt calipers. Will test drive after Ardenne helps me bleed the brakes, again. She is getting good at it after 15 years.
And although the brake calipers were in horrible shape they didn't fix the problem. If anything it is worse now. Will try to shorten the push rod and see what that does for it.
I took a look at this one today. It needs a good amount of body work in the back but could be a good project if you are looking for one. Hard to get a running driving 40 for what he wants. Chris was a super nice guy and may be coming to the next meeting. Let me know if you want a few of my pics or info if further away and interested.
1969 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser
1969 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser
Well after thinking that I was chasing the right way I think it is something other than the push rod length. I backed off and it seemed to help a bit but not completely so I went a little shorter twice more but it never helped. Maybe a residual valve issue? I think that both sides are really sticking but when I release the pressure on the right side it releases the pressure on the other side as well. Maybe a complete rebuild of the master is in order. There was a little dirty brake fluid in between the booster and the master.
Sorry, I'm a little slow on the uptake tonight. If this is on your newly purchased 40 with factory disc up front there should be no residual valve on the front circuit. Disc don't use them. Could be a bad caliper (you changed them already), hose, master, or relay rod length issue.
