Builds 40 Guy Builds a 100 Series (2 Viewers)

[REZARF]

I picked up this little gem off eBay the other day. As I followed the Expeditions 7 Team I loved that one of the Cruisers had on board propane mounted behind the rear bumper. I knew that would be a better way to go for me over another thing hanging off the rear tire carrier. So when this popped up for $40 bucks on eBay I jumped....

It is a 2.5 gallon propane tank from a 1974 Westfalia VW camper. I have found this is an awesome size for a week plus of unrestrained use of propane for camping as I run two 11lb tanks on my trailer and haven't emptied one on a long trip yet. Stoves, heaters, lanterns etc. I need to replace the regulator as this one has a leak but that is easy. I just gotta figure out the plumbing to connect the tank to a fitting at the rear bumper.

Does anyone out there in 'Mud land know if pneumatic fittings can be propane specific? And if so, what makes them any safer than high quality solid brass fittings that are "air-tight" for use with other high pressure air systems? I am really hoping to have quick disconnects on my partner steel stove and the propane outlet at the bumper for quick setup and tear down. I am trying to figure out if the $10/fitting for propane is good marketing or if there is a true safety factor. In which case, they are worth the extra cost. However, if they're the same as any other high quality pneumatic fitting then I have enough on the shelf to plumb 5 of these tanks.

 

[REZARF]

Okay so McMaster says there is a difference for the fittings and that is good enough for me. Something with an internal valve to shut it off if a fire breaks out. I have the new regulator in bound, should be able to knock it out soon enough

My inspiration from Expeditions 7

 

[REZARF]

I finally wrapped up my dual battery system... what a chore, I love doing electrical work myself but man, doing it all right (components, techniques, and time) really adds up. I just tested the entire system and I am stoked with the results. Here is a quick rundown of the system I put together.

• Optima Group 35 (iirc) Batteries
• RED Top (starting battery/main)
• YELLOW Top (all accessories/House)
• Blue Sea ML-ACR with interior switch
• Blue Sea/Busman Circuit breakers on both ends
• 2/0 Gauge main power/ground cables
• 4 ga wire for aux fuse panel and to rear of truck for additional fuse/distribution
• Blue Sea 12 circuit fuse panel with Negative bus.
• 3 auto Relays (for light bar, hellas, one spare)
• Terminal block for the aux power system for future upgrades.
• Custom ABS Bracket for mounting the system.

Overall things came out nice, clean and it works.

Started on the main battery side with a Blue Sea circuit breaker and custom bracket... I used the radiator bolt locations just added some longer metric bolts.

Next up was to create some cables and route them through the breaker. This not only protects the wire in case of a short, but it also allows me to manually disconnect the two systems.

I put all my 2/0 cable (nearly an 1" thick!) on the fire wall. It all got wrapped in an abrasion/heat resistant sheathing. I like to add this stuff over corrugated loom so I can spot my work verse factory cables easily.

I mounted up the ML-ARC to the Slee battery tray where the old solenoid and switch were housed. This was nearly a perfect fit. Thanks Christo and team @sleeoffroad ! I then added a 1/8 rubber insulator pad to the base of the 2nd battery tray before popping in the battery.

 

[REZARF]

Next up was creating a new auxiliary power system. This new system allows me to create a separate system from the OEM stuff so I can isolate my new accessories. This aux system consists of:

• Blue Sea Breaker
• Blue Sea 12 circuit fuse panel with ground bus (this allows me to keep all the grounds in one spot, it also means I need to run two wires everywhere but I am cool with that vs. grounding all through out the truck through the chassis or body).
• 3 Automotive style relays (4 pictured but I dropped one for space).
• Terminal block

Next up I had to bend and cut the ABS (3/16" thick) to mount the new panel. I used the factory threaded holes for the horn and OBD2 port. I will remount these close to the air box. I also added an L bracket to the base of this unit that bolts through the battery mount/power steering reservoir (not pictured yet)

Here is the initial wiring and component layout. I decided to use bolts for everything instead of screws (the abs does hold screws really well though)

Here it is all wired up with the power and ground cables and where it will live till death do us part. It is a nice fit and still gives me enough room to not have to contort to get in and add/fix something. I can't stand working under a dash, this is nice to have here. I am going to trust on my tin coated copper, good cables and glue line shrink wrap to trust it will hold up under the hood. I added di-electric grease to everything that had a contact.

 

[REZARF]

And a few more shots for the peanut gallery... nice to be done. It was a monster project and cost a good bit more than I thought it might initially but to have a dedicated separate battery that I can run off while camping for my lights and fridge and know I can crank the battery in the morning is a good deal for me as I tend to travel more and more remote these days.

 

[toyotaspeed90]

I have the same fuse panel in my 40, it's nice having the grounding bus bar.

Might have missed it in the past 20 pages - with your 100 this well built, how often does your 40 even get used?

 

[bgolf247]

I finally wrapped up my dual battery system... what a chore, I love doing electrical work myself but man, doing it all right (components, techniques, and time) really adds up. I just tested the entire system and I am stoked with the results. Here is a quick rundown of the system I put together.

• Optima Group 35 (iirc) Batteries
• RED Top (starting battery/main)
• YELLOW Top (all accessories/House)
• Blue Sea ML-ACR with interior switch
• Blue Sea/Busman Circuit breakers on both ends
• 2/0 Gauge main power/ground cables
• 4 ga wire for aux fuse panel and to rear of truck for additional fuse/distribution
• Blue Sea 12 circuit fuse panel with Negative bus.
• 3 auto Relays (for light bar, hellas, one spare)
• Terminal block for the aux power system for future upgrades.
• Custom ABS Bracket for mounting the system.

Overall things came out nice, clean and it works.

Started on the main battery side with a Blue Sea circuit breaker and custom bracket... I used the radiator bolt locations just added some longer metric bolts.
View attachment 1675811

Next up was to create some cables and route them through the breaker. This not only protects the wire in case of a short, but it also allows me to manually disconnect the two systems.
View attachment 1675812

I put all my 2/0 cable (nearly an 1" thick!) on the fire wall. It all got wrapped in an abrasion/heat resistant sheathing. I like to add this stuff over corrugated loom so I can spot my work verse factory cables easily.
View attachment 1675813
I mounted up the ML-ARC to the Slee battery tray where the old solenoid and switch were housed. This was nearly a perfect fit. Thanks Christo and team @sleeoffroad ! I then added a 1/8 rubber insulator pad to the base of the 2nd battery tray before popping in the battery.
View attachment 1675816

So does Slee still have the old tray or did you get this from another rising sun member?

 

[REZARF]

So does Slee still have the old tray or did you get this from another rising sun member?

I picked this one up used, not sure what generation it is. Sorry I can't help more.

 

[REZARF]

I have the same fuse panel in my 40, it's nice having the grounding bus bar.

Might have missed it in the past 20 pages - with your 100 this well built, how often does your 40 even get used?

The 40 is about to go under the knife this winter for a three year resto/mod...

1. Year Mechanical
2. Body work rust removal and paint
3. Interior and gizmos.

The 100 has been getting the nod when the family is coming along or I'm hitting trails more than 3 hours from home. When it is a few hours away and just me and one kiddo or a friend, the 40 is the first choice.

 

[joseywales]

Okay so McMaster says there is a difference for the fittings and that is good enough for me. Something with an internal valve to shut it off if a fire breaks out.

The RV industry has quick connect propane fittings for external BBQs etc. You should be able to source them from your local rv dealer or online.

https://www.amazon.com/DozyAnt-Prop...0252&sr=8-3&keywords=Rv+propane+quick+connect

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Quick-...0252&sr=8-8&keywords=Rv+propane+quick+connect

 

[REZARF]

Thanks man, I did finally figure out that there is a difference. McMaster pointed me in the right direction. There is a built in fail safe for the propane so that in the event of a fire it appears to shut off or have some sort of back flow stop (if I was reading the info correctly, feel free to clarify).

I am going to run one quick disconnect off the back corner of the bumper and then use something like that 10' hose to connect to my stove. I finally got a coat of new paint on the propane tank so look for that installation soon.

 

[Rolocado]

How many miles are on this puppy now?

 

[REZARF]

How many miles are on this puppy now?

I should roll 325k by the end of the month. Runs like a top. I plan on another full fluid swap/new plugs before summer when I install a new power steering rack.

 

[REZARF]

Is this a problem?

 

[REZARF]

The CV let go after slinging too much grease without me addressing it. It did let go in amazing death wobble fashion! Scared the poo out of me.

This was the last straw in terms of me keeping the 35's... back to the 305 x 65- 18's for me. Anyone want a good set of 35x12.5-18 BFG K02 with 5k miles on them?

While I was in the front replacing the axle, I went ahead and wised up and did some other PM and mods.

Picked up a set of the Japan made 555 Lower Ball Joints to pop in.

Just gotta use a big "C-Clamp" to pop them free and back in again. What a beefy tool!

We are moving this week to Montana so I dropped by @sleeoffroad to say goodbye to a few friends and picked up a diff drop that was hot off the press. This should help with some of my driveline angles. I didn't figure the 3/4" would make as big of a difference as it did. It really takes the angle off the CV and levels it out. If everything was built to Slee's standards, life would be grand. Perfect fit, welds, hardware, instructions and powder coat. What's not to like!?

Lesson learned, is the diff drop optional? Yes...

Is it beneficial? YES!

Last little mod since I was in there was to replace my badly worn out sway bar end links up front. They were nearly metal on metal. Trail Tailor for the win... @reevesci only complaint was the powder coat was dinged up during shipment but otherwise these links are really rad and I can feel the difference while driving in the loading of the front suspension. I highly recommend the extended links. I hit them with a spot of rattle can black and popped them in.

 

[wngrog]

Montana. Good luck.

305-65-18 is the perfect 100 series tire.

 

[REZARF]

Montana. Good luck.

305-65-18 is the perfect 100 series tire.

Thanks Nolen, I agree about the tire size, it cannot be beat on the 100 in my experience of 5 different sizes now on the rig.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I actually fired my powder guy last week for what I feel is "soft" coating.

Sorry for the dings.

J

 

[REZARF]

I actually fired my powder guy last week for what I feel is "soft" coating.

Sorry for the dings.

J

@reevesci Great product man, no worries! You ship FAST and the products I have ordered from you are holding up great. Mine had popped out of the foam wrap and were clanging up against one another. Can you tell me what is actually changing in the ride due to the extended sway bar end links? I can feel a difference but I am having a hard time understanding what happened other than regaining factory angles post lift?

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

@reevesci Great product man, no worries! You ship FAST and the products I have ordered from you are holding up great. Mine had popped out of the foam wrap and were clanging up against one another. Can you tell me what is actually changing in the ride due to the extended sway bar end links? I can feel a difference but I am having a hard time understanding what happened other than regaining factory angles post lift?

Basically what extended links do for front and rear alike are put the engineered sway bar geometry back to the designed angles. When you lift the vehicle the sway bar tilts and makes the bar not perform as engineered. The links just put everything back to proper geometry and you get that "controlled" feel back again.

J