Builds 40 Guy Builds a 100 Series (2 Viewers)

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Performance was pretty good. About 4:30 to fill up a 35x12.5 r15 tire from 20-35psi... Doubling them up should put my into the 2 minute range per tire. Wish me luck. $29/each I gotta' try. I know its no ARB twin but it is just over 1/10 the cost.

I'll likely mount them beside my yet to built drawers, and add a 2.5 gallon tank in the spare spot with air ports to my bumpers front and rear.
 
I stripped my compressors down to the bare minimums and started to mock up some mounting brackets and plumbing. I removed the pressure gauges from the unit as I plan on mounting this in the wings next to the drawers I am building this winter. My system will be pretty simple… 2 pumps each on their own pneumatic circuit via a check valve, running into a 2.5 gallon tank mounted in the spare location, with air outlets front and rear on the bumpers. I am waiting on a few air filters before going forward, but I should come out around $125 buck or less all in for a complete on-board-air system. Time will tell if the Bon Air pumps and motors hold up to the test of time.

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This weekend I finally had everything come together to get my Old Man Emu lift on. I had a local cruiser head sell me a used OME lift that he didn’t like (thanks again Wes! @wesintl) The only part of the kit I needed to add was rear coils. I went round and round on which ones to buy, but the gang at Cruiser Outfitters helped me land on 3” of lift for +400lbs of weight with the OME 864’s. I think they’ll be perfect once I get the drawers and fridge in the back. The weight of the Slee rear carrier already ate up my 30mm spacers I had in the rear. I bet I am at the 400+ by the time I add the tire carrier, jack, rear drawers (loaded) and the Fridge… plus add our family of 5 camping gear and I am sure we will hit it when loaded up.

There are a lot of good write up’s here on mud that I used, as well as, Slee Offroad's detailed instructions with pics, so the install went pretty easy. I did hit everything with PB blaster for a few days before starting the install but this is a Colorado western truck with very little if any surface rust. The whole thing took a buddy and I about 7 hours, with a few hiccups along the way.

Here is the Kit, it is the standard Old Man Emu 2.5" lift with the addition of 864 Rear Coils that give about 3" of lift with added weight. Note the 22mm flex head wrench... I wouldn't attempt the rears without this tool. I got mine off eBay for about $8 bucks. Totally worth it.
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Next get the rear up as high as you safely can, drop the sway bar end links where they meet the sway bar... 1 bolt per side. That'll help you get the droop you need to pull the springs.
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Here you can see the sway bar disconnected, the spring removed and the shock pulled out. You can't see that the floor jack is on the other side raising up the opposite axle. When done like this, the springs fall right out. Just watch your brake lines and diff breather hose, they can get taught, we didn't need to remove them to get the droop we needed. To remove the shock we used the ratcheting wrench on the top nut and then turned the upper shock by using a big ol' pipe wrench... this gave us the purchase we needed as a strap wrench kept slipping.
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Here you can see our setup to remove each side's springs. The 100's really flex well, in the rear, the front.... not so much.
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Here is the new 864 compared to the OEM Stock spring, the coils are thicker and they're are a few more wraps per spring, but they are about the same height, the lift is obvious attained through the spring rate and how much the springs compress under weight. The tapered end is the bottom, these are upside down in this pic.
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A big shout out to my bud for helping turning a wrench all day on his day off. Thanks again Brian!

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Half way there... gotta' little stink bug rake happening but I knew that would happen until the weight gets up to speed in the back. Front torsion bars in this pic are probably 1" over stock.
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The fronts are actually really easy to do. Removing the Torsion bars is the biggest pain, but mine came out without too much fuss. If they are rusted and locked in there I can see how this would be extremely frustrating. Proper PB blaster, a big hammer and a heavy duty brass drift made quick work of the Tbars. Shocks up front are as easy as unbolt the old and bolt up the new. I was stoked to see that my mystery clunk up front was from a sway bar bushing that had long died. I will likely weld up some DOM sleeves over the factory sway bar end links and drop them 2-3 inches and add all new bushings. She's due at 320k miles now. :bounce:
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The rear torsion bar adjusting arms are probably where most people are gonna get hung up if your bars aren't sliding free. Here is what I came up with after scratching our heads for a while. Once the fronts are free... they simple get driven off the torsion bar towards the rear of the cruiser, you have nothing to hold the tbars in place to drive off the rear adjusting arm.

I decided to lock 2 pairs of vice grips (round jaws) onto the Tbar... clamp them down with all your might, and double them up to prevent sliding. Then push them up against the frame that the tbar passes through. Now when you strike the adjusting arm to drive it off the rear of the tbar you have something holding the tbar into place. Once we figured this out the adjusting arms popped off with a dozen heavy blows... probably the trickiest part of this whole install besides the rear shocks upper bolts.
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If you've been under there then this picture makes total sense to you, this is the passenger side tbar looking from the front towards the rear. It took both of us to hold the tbar and drift into place while the other guy whacked the drift with a 3lb hammer. Once we figured this out, it only took a few minutes per side to remove the adjustment arms from the Tbar.
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Your truck is clean underneath, the LX I worked on last week was completely rusted, I had to use heat to get the torsion bar adjusted bolt loose. Then on the passenger side we had to cut off the oem torsion bar and bring everything out and use heat and a BFH to get the bar out of the housing. Such a pain working on rusty trucks.
 
Everything else has been detailed really well in the FAQ so there is no need to double up. Here are the final results, I need to get it aligned today but I wanted to give it some miles to settle and fine tune any adjustments.

The ride quality is awesome! The 100 no longer feels like a sofa cruising down the road. No dive when I brake, no body roll through the corners. I would have to say (with no trail time on this suspension) the suspension feels much "sportier" it tracks smooth, steering is more predictable, no body roll, and it really levels out the bigger bumps and dips. That said, the trade off is I feel more when I go over a man-hole cover or imperfection in the road. It is not a more plush ride (the OEM really smooths the ride out) but it is much more acute and "tight." I am really please with the ride so far and look forward to trying it on our Colorado "baby head" rock trails.

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If you've been under there then this picture makes total sense to you.......:rofl:

So true.....So true..... the LC looks nice!
 
Thanks @cmck I think it came out nice. The aesthetics are side benefit, as I do think it looks better now too.
 
Egh....I guess this is an Okay truck now Drew. I mean...YUCK..LOL Great work dude! We gotta hang out soon =)

Haha! Thanks man, let me know when and I am game to hang out. You gotta make another breakfast at some point! Or we could even go out and get onto a trail! I have one secret spot that doesn't get much all winter near Allen's Park if you're game. I am starting my drawers after I FINALLY wrap up my dual battery system.

I have so much stuff waiting on finishing the dual battery system, let me count the ways:

  • Winch wiring.
  • Hella 4000's wiring
  • LED Light bar wiring
  • Solar Panel wiring
  • Aux fuse panel
  • Amp for sub wiring
  • CB wiring.
  • Light switch panel
  • Go Light wiring
  • Compressor Wiring
Uggg, gotta wrap those batteries up. Then drawers, then done (maybe), then 35's. Then a front ARB, then I'll start a 200 for the Mrs.
 
Friday Breakfast Club still gong strong? I may be able to join, depending on what Friday....

I've been busy on the LC as well.

I'll ping yah when I get some free time.

Haha! Thanks man, let me know when and I am game to hang out. You gotta make another breakfast at some point! Or we could even go out and get onto a trail! I have one secret spot that doesn't get much all winter near Allen's Park if you're game. I am starting my drawers after I FINALLY wrap up my dual battery system.

I have so much stuff waiting on finishing the dual battery system, let me count the ways:

  • Winch wiring.
  • Hella 4000's wiring
  • LED Light bar wiring
  • Solar Panel wiring
  • Aux fuse panel
  • Amp for sub wiring
  • CB wiring.
  • Light switch panel
  • Go Light wiring
  • Compressor Wiring
Uggg, gotta wrap those batteries up. Then drawers, then done (maybe), then 35's. Then a front ARB, then I'll start a 200 for the Mrs.
 
looking good man! I'm trying to figure out what I want to do for rear springs. I just added a BIOR rear bumper, drawers, Fridge and now a RTT.
 
Finally knocking out a few long overdue projects. First up was getting my new battery terminals on, I chose a set of Mil-Spec style led terminals from WyTek, and man they are great. Very heavy duty and high quality. This was the monkey on my back in my dual battery setup... now that I have the terminals on I was able to re-shrink wrap and add new tin plated copper terminals to the OEM grounds and positive cables. I added some rubber strips under the batter hold down to insulate and clamp the top down a little harder as it was sliding around a bit off road. Here is where it is at now...

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To add the new Mil-Spec Terminals I did have to make a jumper to go from the POS terminal to the OEM POS lead, I simply made a quick and dirty copper bar stock connector that I can bolt to the terminal and then to the OEM bracket thingy. Here i is what I came up with...
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I twisted it 90* so that it would bolt up properly but in the end it came out great (the second time, the first one I tore when trying to twist it, copper is softer than I thought). I added a stainless steel bolt and lock nut to really clamp them down together. It could be my imagination but I feel like my starter spins up quicker now too... go figure.
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I also got after getting my winch wired up, spooled up with new synthetic rope and a new shiny Factor 55 Flatlink Expert end link. I haven't needed the winch yet, and that is just fine with me as I tend to be a pretty amazing driver (read cautious and wussy ;) ) I tend to pull cable to move tree's more than other rigs.

To keep things light I swapped out the Warn steel rope for a synthetic rope from Custom Splice, it is there Diamond line. Working with the synthetic stuff is SOOOO much nicer than the steel cable that always tended to birds nest on me when I was least expecting it. I was planning on reusing the Warn rated hook on the end but the connection and the thimble loop on the new line wouldn't fit one another so I thought it was a good enough reason to pop on one of Factor 55's Expert Flatlinks. Very cool product, simple, well made, premium materials. Pretty cool device if you ask me.

While I was at it I had Custom Splice whip me up a bridle for my recovery gear. I told them I didn't care what color and they sent me this sweet Bronco's themed colored bridle. For those who care but don't know, a bridle lets you connect to two points on the cruiser (think the front end at both frame rails) and they pull from which ever angle the winch line is naturally drawn to. This cuts down on stressing just one point on the frame and allows for a more controlled pull. It obviously could be used as a short extension, anchor or soft shackle in a pinch. I have used it a few times with the 40, so it is a bit dirty and a little used.

Here is all the bling before getting spooled and bolted on.

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I thought about milling one of these for myself on my manual mill but the design is so slick... so clean... so well made, I just bit the bullet and cashed in an Amazon gift card and had it to my door the next day. This is the version that allows a shackle or D-Ring to pass through, not just the screw pin. It has rubber pads so it pulls tight onto the fairlead while eliminating rattles at the same time. Sweet.
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All tucked in, snug and tight. I am still unsure if I will install a new fairlead, I picked up a Slee aluminum Haws fairlead but I am unsure if I need it with the new rope. I don't have any burrs or sharp edges on my rollers. I might swap out the Slee fairlead for a set of Delrin rollers if I think its necessary. Thoughts?
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I did a little PM while dialing the winch. All my connections were a little corroded and oxidized. So out came the Scotch-brite pads and the wire wheels and I cleaned up every terminal, post, power bus bar, and ground. Coated everything with a light coat of dielectric grease and went to fire up the winch and...





















...nothing. Nada, no click, no pop, no movement, no sparks. Zilch.

After a lot of head scratching, looking over wiring diagrams, testing each solenoid separately, checked for good +/- continuity etc. I was miffed. Nothing. Then I read the solenoids are grounded through the mounting bracket in the control box... in my case then the control box is mounted to the ARB bar bracket. So I ground the ARB bracket and every thing came to life... AHHHHHH. Darn ARB with your awesome powder coating. I created a jumper to ground the solenoids to the winch main ground on the motor and now I am all set.

Here is what my cable ends looked like before cleaning them up. Pretty rough considering they are TIN coated. A little elbow grease and they brightened right up to good as new.
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When I swapped this winch for the m12000 I had, I new it needed new terminal boots for the "A" "F1" and "F2" terminals, so I picked these up for a few bucks at WayTek Wire. Very nice units, I got about 10 for my dual battery hook ups. Three are used on the winch.
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I started on getting my light switches and in cab winch controls up and running. I plan on installing a set of 6 carling switches to power the following:
  • Winch Power
  • Winch IN/OUT that can be run in addition to the Warn remote.
  • Driving Lights (Hella 4000's up front) I may have them wired to the brights...
  • Roof rack LED bar.
  • Rear roof lights
  • Rock lights on the sliders
Here is the spot I am going to pop them into, the "sunglasses/garage door opener" spot.
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I here are the switches, they are in a 6 gang pod that daisy chains as long as you'd like. I am going to drop the "Off Road Lights" switch for a winch IN/OUT momentary switch that should show any day now. I bought GREEN illuminated switches to match the awesome 1999 interior lighting. :cool:
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Started getting the wiring in order... starting out by daisy chaining all the lights and grounds that use common connections.
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First, I daisy chained the power for the LED lights that come on when your dash lights come on.
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Next up was creating the common grounds, one is for the LED and another for the actual switch's ground.
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I plan on using a CAT5 cable since it has so many leads in one connection. I will have each light on a separate relay for two reasons, first, it allows full power to the light, and second I don't need that much power running through each switch, I can use a very tiny wire to activate the relays and that should make it MUCH easier to run the wires.

For the winch, I am using fused 20 amp switches that will act like a remote inside the vehicle. The first one will be a "Safety" that must be activated to power the winch in our out... this gives you another step of safety from an accidental winch activation, either in or out. In essence it is a switch for the switch ;)
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Keeping on with the dual battery install. Today was running the primary cables between the batteries. I created three cables:

1. Positive to the Blue Sea Magnetic Latch Relay.
2. Positive jumper from the Blue Sea Isolator to the positive terminal on the Aux Battery.
3. Negative main cable to connect the two batteries.

I'll splice the main positive battery cable with a 100 amp breaker but I gotta fab a bracket first.

Here is how I made up my cables...

Big bag of parts from Waytek... they killed me on the shipping so buyer beware. Solid copper, formed, tin coated terminals in 2/0 gauge, 1/0 gauge in various hole diameters so I don't have to mess with modifying any of them. I also picked up a set of Mil-Spec terminals that are solid lead.
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All my scrap yard shopping has paid off. I found several long sections of high quality 2/0 and 1/0 gauge EDPM coated cables. These would be used for welding cables or industrial applications... they'll make outstanding battery cables. Best part is I get it by the pound not by the foot. I got about 40' of heavy gauge cable for $25 total. :bounce:
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Here is some of the specs of the smaller 1/0 gauge cable.
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Here is a close up of the terminals, I used to work around boats and these are about the best terminals I have every handled. They are really top notch.
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I bought some nylon braided nylon sheath off amazon and some adhesive lined heat shrink that is Mil-Spec. Nice product components yield a nice end product. The heat shrink is pretty thick and shrinks to 1/3 of its original diameter.
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Here is the steps I use to make these cables.

1. Strip the insulating back about 1/2" or just enough to stuff the live end inside the terminal and the insulation butts up against terminal
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I did buy two specialty tools for this and future projects. I bought this little hydraulic crimper off eBay for about $40 and I have to say it does an amazing job and had great reviews online. I saw one video where a guy creates the crimp, then cuts a cross section to inspect it and the crimper created a 100% cold weld.
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Here is the cable after the crimp, for what it is worth, the terminals only would go on with some force and twisting, so the amount the hydraulic crimper compresses the terminal is impressive.
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Here you can see the sheathing slid into place and the heat shrink before the heat is applied.
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And here is a finished end... you can see the glue just starting to seep out from the leading edge of the shrink wrap. These cables are about as good as anything you could purchase out there for a fraction of the cost. Now onto fabricating a bracket to hold on my 100 amp breaker and another to support the Blue Sea MLR
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