Builds 40 Guy Builds a 100 Series
- Thread starter REZARF
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #283
Lookin' good, neighbor!
I thought it looked somewhat familiar. I don't remember it being that undulating though. We did it just in June and it was pretty well graded from Garden of the Gods all the way past Rampart Reservoir and to Woodland Park. We didn't explore Rampart Range beyond that though.
Wow I just read all 15 pages. We just purchased a 2000 Green Land Cruiser with 200000 miles. Now I want to mod! The only problem with it is the rear bumper cover is broken on the drivers side. Would you still have yours and be willing to sell it?
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- #287
Buddy you're in Wizzzconsin, shipping would kill any deal. Have fun with the new 100 though they're awesome Land Cruisers.
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- #288
Yup, its an easy road, but this is one of the little spurs that shoots off the main drag.
- Thread starter
- #290
Have a good time with good friends off-roading all weekend, but we had a good bit of rain so everything was a little bit sloppy, did I mention that IH8MUD? So it's time to bust out the power washer, blast the under carriage, detail the engine bay and give the paint the spa treatment!
I start off with a complete top-to-bottom wash, then I used a Claybar system for the whole car, then I used a Polish for the clear coat followed lastly by a good gold class Carnuba wax... thank you Meguiars!
Before
After all 4 steps...
I start off with a complete top-to-bottom wash, then I used a Claybar system for the whole car, then I used a Polish for the clear coat followed lastly by a good gold class Carnuba wax... thank you Meguiars!
Before
After all 4 steps...
- Thread starter
- #292
Not too shabby for an 18 year old truck. Paint still shines up really nice. The clear coat takes a good polish. I do have about a kerbillion rock chips up front and a fading cracking "clear bra" up front that I need to pull off but these trucks really do clean up well.
- Thread starter
- #293
Had a full day to crank and finish up my roof rack yesterday. I was hung up on how to mount my sunroof panel that is removable without it being a pain in the booty or overly complicated... nor flimsy. I came up with a simple gusset with a trick tab on top. Four threaded nutserts will be captured into the base of the rack, and I can drop a bolt through the top, tighten them down and away we go.
I did place one more crossbar down the middle of the sunroof panel but it I forgot to snap a pic.
I did place one more crossbar down the middle of the sunroof panel but it I forgot to snap a pic.
- Thread starter
- #294
After all the fab work was done it was high time to prep for paint. I have started using these 3M sanding pads that you can pick up nearly anywhere for about a buck a pop. They seem to last forever, conform to round surfaces really well and the biggest plus is they don't leave grit anywhere. They make quick work of scuffing all the metal for paint.
Here is the rack looked like fresh from welding, there is a lot to clean up. I use the 3M pads and a wire wheel until everything is squeaky clean.
Here is the same stretch of tube before and after a few swipes with the 3M pad. It makes really quick work of raw steel.
Here is the rack looked like fresh from welding, there is a lot to clean up. I use the 3M pads and a wire wheel until everything is squeaky clean.
Here is the same stretch of tube before and after a few swipes with the 3M pad. It makes really quick work of raw steel.
- Thread starter
- #295
It takes a while to go over about 50' of tubing but in the end it will give my rattle can paint job the best chance of holding up to the weather the longest. I plan on running the rack the rest of this season and into next spring. Spray paint allows me to change the places I weld brackets onto to mount things like a solar panel, gas can, and or a pelican case or two. I prefer hard mounts and this will allow me to play with the setup, add tabs, try different things, then when I am happy I will have it powder coated.
All prepped, scuffed, wiped down with acetone and ready for primer.
Here is an example of how clean I prefer the surfaces before primer.
And here it is in primer. I am using Rustoleum automotive primer and their heavy duty enamel for the topcoat in a gloss black. This was the first time I was disappointed in the Rustoleum products, I got a lot of pin holes in the final topcoat. When I would spray the paint it would lay on flat and glossy then almost fiz like soda and produce tiny pin holes... it was frustrating but it is what it is.
All prepped, scuffed, wiped down with acetone and ready for primer.
Here is an example of how clean I prefer the surfaces before primer.
And here it is in primer. I am using Rustoleum automotive primer and their heavy duty enamel for the topcoat in a gloss black. This was the first time I was disappointed in the Rustoleum products, I got a lot of pin holes in the final topcoat. When I would spray the paint it would lay on flat and glossy then almost fiz like soda and produce tiny pin holes... it was frustrating but it is what it is.
- Thread starter
- #296
Shot with the Rustoleum heavy duty enamel last night in gloss black. I have had GREAT results with this paint. It has held up to 10 years of abuse on my rear tire carrier on my 40 and it usually goes on without issue. I sprayed it pretty heavy and have some runs to proove it but again this is to allow me to mess with it for a few months until I find a resting spot with all my gear, then it is off to powder coat as my 100 lives outside 100% of the time and that is a lot to ask of any paint.
Most of the pin holes vanished overnight... that's cool. I was pretty miffed last night after all that prep to not have a slick finish in the end. I have found the high gloss finish settles down after a few weeks and it hardens between a semi-gloss and high-gloss in the end. It will match my sliders at least
I hope to get it mounted up today or tomorrow if I can find an extra set of willing hands near by.
Most of the pin holes vanished overnight... that's cool. I was pretty miffed last night after all that prep to not have a slick finish in the end. I have found the high gloss finish settles down after a few weeks and it hardens between a semi-gloss and high-gloss in the end. It will match my sliders at least
I hope to get it mounted up today or tomorrow if I can find an extra set of willing hands near by. 
- Thread starter
- #299
BOOM!
I rattle canned it for now in hopes of running it for a while and see what needs to be added as far as tie down points, tabs for mounting do-dads and anything else I think needs modifying. I am going to make up some brackets for my Fox Wing 270* awning and that will mean a relocation of the Hi-Lift jack, I will likely mount it to the drivers side rails. In the end I am sorta' bummed that by the time I hang all the crap I want to off it, I am going to cover up most of my handiwork.
The light bar tucked in perfectly, I just need to test it out at night and see if I avoided the dreaded hood splash.
I drove 120 miles last night without any wind noise at 70-80mph on the highway so that was AWESOME! I am pretty certain I am going to incur a good bit more wind noise with the addition of the light bar. I am planning on a fairing of some sort for long drives and to keep the bugs of the light bar.
I am hoping this is enough clearance for the light bar to not contact the roof, I have about 3/8" I was shooting for 1/2" but when I welded my sunroof panel landing pads to the rack I didn't take into account they would effectively "lower" the floor of the rack 1/8" lower than when I mocked it up. I'll know soon enough.
I am stoked. Again, a big shout out to Tim @nakman from GAMIVITI for selling me the towers and landing pads, thanks Tim!
I rattle canned it for now in hopes of running it for a while and see what needs to be added as far as tie down points, tabs for mounting do-dads and anything else I think needs modifying. I am going to make up some brackets for my Fox Wing 270* awning and that will mean a relocation of the Hi-Lift jack, I will likely mount it to the drivers side rails. In the end I am sorta' bummed that by the time I hang all the crap I want to off it, I am going to cover up most of my handiwork.
The light bar tucked in perfectly, I just need to test it out at night and see if I avoided the dreaded hood splash.
I drove 120 miles last night without any wind noise at 70-80mph on the highway so that was AWESOME! I am pretty certain I am going to incur a good bit more wind noise with the addition of the light bar. I am planning on a fairing of some sort for long drives and to keep the bugs of the light bar.
I am hoping this is enough clearance for the light bar to not contact the roof, I have about 3/8" I was shooting for 1/2" but when I welded my sunroof panel landing pads to the rack I didn't take into account they would effectively "lower" the floor of the rack 1/8" lower than when I mocked it up. I'll know soon enough.
I am stoked. Again, a big shout out to Tim @nakman from GAMIVITI for selling me the towers and landing pads, thanks Tim!
- Thread starter
- #300
Next up, mounting crap to the rack, installing my solar panel, rotopax thingy and my Solar Road Shower. Heading to Wyoming to camp this weekend with the family I hope we can pull off the install of the gear by then.
Then onto, wrapping up the dual battery install, OME suspension lift, timing belt/WP PM, then a set of home made drawers... then I am done
Then onto, wrapping up the dual battery install, OME suspension lift, timing belt/WP PM, then a set of home made drawers... then I am done
