Mildly confused at how high up the frame side lowers are? Am I looking at the picture wrong?
X2 and isn't oriented the wrong way?:whoops:
40 4 link specs and questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 40justin
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X2 and isn't oriented the wrong way?:whoops:
40Habits
Sure... why not
That is one of the reason I asked what joints he is using. You can mount them horizontally but it transfers the load on the joint and I think they will wear out faster mounted like that
but I am far from an expert!!
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- #23
Everyone is looking at the pictures correct. made some slight changes. Again...
I'm using 1.25" Heims.
I'm thinking of adding a brace to the lower side of the bracket to add a bit more strength.
I moved the bracket up 1.5" on the side of the frame due to future plans of larger tires and major fender cutting/raising. I want to keep the truck as low as possible without creating major rock magnets. The lower link brackets will be 22.5" off the ground at the fame and 17.5" at the axle. The link will be 45.5" long so the angle should be pretty low.
Would the bracket be stronger facing the other way??
I'm using 1.25" Heims.
I'm thinking of adding a brace to the lower side of the bracket to add a bit more strength.
I moved the bracket up 1.5" on the side of the frame due to future plans of larger tires and major fender cutting/raising. I want to keep the truck as low as possible without creating major rock magnets. The lower link brackets will be 22.5" off the ground at the fame and 17.5" at the axle. The link will be 45.5" long so the angle should be pretty low.
Would the bracket be stronger facing the other way??
Just to clarify, the heim is going to be horizontal, with the bolt running verticle, on the frame end? It's going to bind and limit flex.
You can run upper link heims on the axle end in that orientation, but not on the frame end. At least I wouldn't, you will be limited to the flex in the heim downward when you flex. With it orientated vertical, you have the rotation around the bolt.
unless I am missing something???
You can run upper link heims on the axle end in that orientation, but not on the frame end. At least I wouldn't, you will be limited to the flex in the heim downward when you flex. With it orientated vertical, you have the rotation around the bolt.
unless I am missing something???
As to orientation - exactly what the Dude said - ok on axle side uppers, all others questionable. I didn't comment on that as I'm no expert.
Location of mount - I see where you're going - and if that link is closer to flat maybe not a big deal (that would be a lot of fender trimming). Without a fully triangulated 4-link you're going to get rear steer if you have a reasonable range of articulation. Doubt it would bind on the frame - just looks really odd.
Alternatively - if you're ok with the location but want to re-orient the hanger by building an outboarded pad gussetted on the top (picture an outboarded spring hanger, only larger).
No matter - still envy you for diving in. More pics
Location of mount - I see where you're going - and if that link is closer to flat maybe not a big deal (that would be a lot of fender trimming). Without a fully triangulated 4-link you're going to get rear steer if you have a reasonable range of articulation. Doubt it would bind on the frame - just looks really odd.
Alternatively - if you're ok with the location but want to re-orient the hanger by building an outboarded pad gussetted on the top (picture an outboarded spring hanger, only larger).
No matter - still envy you for diving in. More pics
4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
If you mounted the lowers at the frame the same way but lowered them to the bottom of the frame and set them inside the rails it would work a little better for you. You'll get flatter links and reduce roll steer all at the same time.
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- #27
The Dude, you are correct.
The heim will be horizontal and the bolt vertical.
Im going to do some thinking this weekend and maybe some more changes. I will update after the weekend.
Thank you all for your input! It's helping a ton.
The heim will be horizontal and the bolt vertical.
Im going to do some thinking this weekend and maybe some more changes. I will update after the weekend.
Thank you all for your input! It's helping a ton.
- Thread starter
- #28
Ok... Accomplished a bunch this weekend.!!! I had a friend come up from Fort Collins, CO. for a few days and with his fabrication skills and great tools I was able to re-set the lower frame brackets, ( thanks: Sputnik40, the Dude and 40Habits for bringing it to my attention that they were set the wrong way) get both upper frame brackets in place and make all the links.
The upper link is at the slightest angle but will be adjusted down using the next lower option making it flat. Also moved the lower frame bracket down 1 inch and shortened the link back to 36.5 inches
Still everything is only tacked in place and need to add a few braces to the lower frame brackets. Just want to get a few more eyes on it before its all burned in.
Few photos:
It looks like the jack is on the heim but its on the frame. Just a crazy angle of the photo.
Thanks again everyone for all the help!!
The upper link is at the slightest angle but will be adjusted down using the next lower option making it flat. Also moved the lower frame bracket down 1 inch and shortened the link back to 36.5 inches
Still everything is only tacked in place and need to add a few braces to the lower frame brackets. Just want to get a few more eyes on it before its all burned in.
Few photos:
It looks like the jack is on the heim but its on the frame. Just a crazy angle of the photo.
Thanks again everyone for all the help!!
Last edited:
Are you sure you don't want those front lower brackets under the frame?? You aren't going to have clearance issues because the t;case and drive shaft are going to sit lower then the links. I would rather hit the links then the drive train.
If not I would drop them as low as you can and gusset the top of them.
If not I would drop them as low as you can and gusset the top of them.
Very similar to the kit form Proffitt's sells. Have a friend who did that kit a few years back and it climbs like mad. Very noticable rear steer - but the way he drives (lots of skinny pedal), it really doesn't make a difference. The pros far outweigh the cons. Concur with the need to cycle through everything - as depending on setup you can end up with the tires binding on back of frame or wheelwell if you don't have bump stops....
A few good pics here: http://www.proffittscruisers.com/ve...wlers/133-1976-fj40-stage-3-rock-crawler.html
I'll be doing something similar - but hacking off rear frame so I can run coilovers - and doing my best to inboard the frame side lowers.
A few good pics here: http://www.proffittscruisers.com/ve...wlers/133-1976-fj40-stage-3-rock-crawler.html
I'll be doing something similar - but hacking off rear frame so I can run coilovers - and doing my best to inboard the frame side lowers.
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- #31
I finished all the welds except the braces on the frame lowers. Here are a few pic's of the axle flexing to both the passenger and driver's side. I have the center of the axle supported by a strap. I lowered and raised the strap and cycled the axle multiple times in both directions with no issues. The only thing stopping the axle is when it hits the ground or the frame.
Plan on making some bump stops once I have it on the wheels and can flex it out.
Sputnik40:
Do you happen to know what coils your friend is using in his yellow beast? I have the aerostar coils but think they might be a bit to long and would rather not cut them.
Any ideas or suggestions?
Plan on making some bump stops once I have it on the wheels and can flex it out.
Sputnik40:
Do you happen to know what coils your friend is using in his yellow beast? I have the aerostar coils but think they might be a bit to long and would rather not cut them.
Any ideas or suggestions?
looking GOOD!
Ditto - looking good.
The link I posted is not the 40 I was talking about - just an example of the kit he used (on a much prettier 40 I'll add). I'll e-mail him to see what springs - have heard heep coils are often used - but would suggest you solicit more ideas from this board (Mace, Woody [think his is quarter eliptical?], or many others will more knowledge).
The link I posted is not the 40 I was talking about - just an example of the kit he used (on a much prettier 40 I'll add). I'll e-mail him to see what springs - have heard heep coils are often used - but would suggest you solicit more ideas from this board (Mace, Woody [think his is quarter eliptical?], or many others will more knowledge).
4WheelUnderground
Suspension is EVERYTHING
Time to get that rig higher in the air so you can cycle the suspension with the tires on. At the very least mount them on the compression side.
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- #35
Thanks everyone. Still a work in progress but getting closer. I will keep updating with any changes. would love to see that chart if your able to find it
- Thread starter
- #36
So I have been away for a while but now I'm back working on this project. I have made some good headway since the last post.
The rear is almost done, All brackets are welded in place the springs are in and the brake lines are almost done. I still need to get it out of the garage so I can flex it to find where bump stops and limit straps will need to be placed.
The front is now the main focus. I have outboarded the front spring hanger 1 3/8 inches, welded my spring perches, cut and turned the knuckles. Im waiting for the High steer arms to put the axle back togeather and back under the truck. Still many many things to do but I'm getting closer.
The rear is almost done, All brackets are welded in place the springs are in and the brake lines are almost done. I still need to get it out of the garage so I can flex it to find where bump stops and limit straps will need to be placed.
The front is now the main focus. I have outboarded the front spring hanger 1 3/8 inches, welded my spring perches, cut and turned the knuckles. Im waiting for the High steer arms to put the axle back togeather and back under the truck. Still many many things to do but I'm getting closer.
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- #37
Also quick question Might be a dumb one!
On a '93 FZJ80 master brake cylinder and booster which is the rear and which is the front line? I have looked around on the site with no luck. Thanks in advance.
On a '93 FZJ80 master brake cylinder and booster which is the rear and which is the front line? I have looked around on the site with no luck. Thanks in advance.
Stock TJ coils on the rear of my new project. Keep the progress report going and good luck.
40Habits
Sure... why not
IIRC it is front to the front and back to the back.
What did you end up using for springs? Sorry I looked every where for that coil chart and could not find it.
LC_Hamma
The Anti-Leafer
Wondering what was the reason you didn't mount the lowers inside the frame in order to triangulate them?
Just an observation here but those thin & long coils may require you to run a sway bar. With the front leafs to stabilize it might be okay though. I run lifted aftermarket rear TJ coils on two trucks & they have a much wider coil diameter than the fronts. I'm guessing they're designed that way to help control sway.
Just an observation here but those thin & long coils may require you to run a sway bar. With the front leafs to stabilize it might be okay though. I run lifted aftermarket rear TJ coils on two trucks & they have a much wider coil diameter than the fronts. I'm guessing they're designed that way to help control sway.
