4-Speed transmission rebuild real-time help

[NikP]

I started the task of rebuilding my 4-speed transmission (previous owner filled with water and it's a bit rusted) and I'm having trouble getting the input shaft to come out. The input shaft is hitting on the counter gear when I go to take it out.

According to my Haynes manual it says to align the cutout on the syncro gear with the countergear. I don't see any cutouts anywhere. Am I missing something because it doesn't appear to be obvious. I was reluctant to pull all the other bearings for fear there's something I was missing. The manual doesn't say to pull the rear bearing until after the input shaft is removed.


Anyone tackle this rebuild and have any helpful hints?

Thanks.

 

[Pin_Head]

There is no cut out on a H42. You drop the counter shaft first by removing both bearings.

The rear mainshaft bearing is a bear to remove in my experience.

 

[Buckwheat]

Bring your wallet

A trans that was full of water will have numerous corroded parts and is not worth fixing. Ask me how I know. As an example the #2 syncho costs $500 & is Toyota only. The cluster has been sitting in water & it's likely the needle bearing are rotten. Go ahead & tear the thing down for the exercise & then contact Georg or someone else on this board & buy a good unit that you can install & run with. & by the way, Pin Head is right about that rear bearing. You'll see.

 

[NikP]

Thanks for the reply. Any advice on getting the counter shaft bearings out without a special tool? My puller jaws won't fit in the holes and I've got one bearing to come out but not the other. I can get it to move back and forth but I can't seem to get any leverage on the remaining one.

I tried Autozone's free tool loan but they don't have anything that seemed to work.


Thanks for the advice.

 

[Pin_Head]

You can "walk" the bearings out by putting increasingly larger shims (screwdrives, washers, pieces of metal, etc) behind the bearing retainer snap ring and driving the shaft back into the case. Once it is out about 1/4 inch you can get the jaws of the puller behind the retainer ring.

For the rear main shaft bearing, once I got the input shaft out, I tipped the tranny bottom up and then put an aluminum bar on the main shaft to protect the threads and then whacked it with a full, two hand swing with a 10 pound sledge to get the shaft to move. Anything less wasn't cutting it.