4 pin hub mod (1 Viewer)

[TLCA_Paul]

well I broke another set of hub studs.
Has anyone made new holes to run 4 pins instead of 2 on the lockout?

Aisan hubs, mini axles( like it matters.)

 

[woody]

Front Range sells a set of upgraded ARP studs....I run them and their knuckle stud kit, easy install, better strength...

 

[cruzer]

The studs don't take the load as much as the dowel pins. I made a drill jig that i use to add 4 more dowel pins to the hubs. Were your hub studs loose? If the holes for the dowel pins are ovaled then they won't work anymore and you need new hubs/lockouts.

Stew

 

[Im4yotas]

www.hendrixmotorsports.com did mine for $50 a side. Mike is currently undergoing cancer treatments, so if he is unwell, he may not be able to fill the order But he has excellent service when he can, and great products!

 

[dd113]

I did the same thing on a FF. The drill #s are on POR under dd113. Bascially, you need to have a press fit for the dowell pins on the hub side and an interference fit on the lockout side. McMaster Carr sells metric studs in varying hardness that can be combined with the extra dowell to make a bulletproof hub.

 

[TLCA_Paul]

SWEET, Thanks Gang.

 

[woody]

The studs don't take the load as much as the dowel pins. I made a drill jig that i use to add 4 more dowel pins to the hubs. Were your hub studs loose? If the holes for the dowel pins are ovaled then they won't work anymore and you need new hubs/lockouts.

I have a hard time believing this...when you reinstall a lockout, the dowels are tight in the hub assembly, but the lockout slides on/off easily....this leads me to believe that the holes in the lockout are not a tight/snug fit.

Additionally, the use of factory cone washers to locate/torque the lockout seems to dictate that they also take a significant portion of the load...

the one time I lost a lockout, the 6 studs shears, the 2 dowels were fine, and the body of the lockout had some nasty divots where they were gouged by the dowels.....

 

[Eskimo]

Isn't it the clamping force that really transmits the torque, just like a D/S flange, high steer arms, etc??

I'm no engineer, but I did stay... oh hell, that's getting old.

 

[dd113]

Here is what I think FWIIW

The dowell pins keep the hub from rotating, any rotation will cause the studs to weaken and eventually break. On my FF the pin backed out then one stud after another broke. I think th studs and washers clamp the assy onto the hub then the dowell pins transfer the rotational force. This is on a FF with a steel flange or with a drive plate that is steel. With an alumn hub I am sure there is a combo that holds it all in one piece with the pins perhaps playing a smaller part. I still favor additional pins with harder studs.

 

[peesalot]

FWIW , I run old 6 spline stuff and for the first 2 years my hubs had no , thats right , no dowel pins and were constantly coming loose . after some TLC and some drilling and taping I got em back right and this year , so far , only a little loosening on 1 side. I am going to carry steel drive plates and put em on at start of long or severe trails. They are stronger IMO....