4" OME MAF kit w/reverse Shackles - Yes or No

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I fully intend to run 35s at some point with this suspension setup. Currently my 33s are on Taco wheels and there's already an issue of rubbing in the rear because of the backspacing involved with the wheel itself- even with full flex I don't think rubbing would be an issue if the backspacing is correct.

I'm not speaking from experience here, so someone more knowledgeable please step in, but the geometry behind a lift speaks for a driveshaft extension regardless. If you wheel seriously of course. The axle is shoved further away from the body while the transfer case remains in the same position, thus lengthening the distance the yoke and driveshaft must cross. Whether you truly need to lengthen the driveshaft depends on the amount of lift you've got coupled with your needs for wheelin'.
 
Can this kit be installed with out welding the new front hangers/shackles?

I can't weld but I can installed the majority of kit Just trying to plan out if i can install it and get to point where it's drive able and I can get it to a shop to do the welding portion.
 
How about the OME springs with a mild (say 1") body lift. Biiger tires will fit (maybe even 35's) while keeping cg low and no issues with drive shafts or geometry.
 
For those of you with the MAF SR, do any of you have binding of the front drive shaft? Anyone done a cut and turn?

My only experience with a 4" lift is with lift springs. I looked into buying one sitting on 35" with the 4" lift springs. The front drive shaft bound up bad during test drive. It needed a cut and turn to be right. I don't remember what brand springs were on it. No SR. Edit: FJ60

I don't understand how a SR could make the front end "jittery"? I had a SR on my 40 when it was running and loved it. Would never go back. It was set up with OME 2.5" springs. The SR was done by Cruiser Outfitters. Maybe the problem is with MAF's SR kit, not the principles behind a SR?

Based on my personal experience I would go SR on my 60 too. But the MAF SR kit has been getting ragged on so much lately I'm thinking SOA and just get it over with.
 
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A 60 and a 40 are very very different vehicles. Especially when it comes to driving type. Remeber that when you go to make opinions. (I have never driven a SR rig so I cannot say anything about that.) But I do own a 62 on 4" alcans and there is no binding. (Shims can be used and a cut in turn is not required by most. But all rigs are different. Some SOA can get by without a C&T too, which alot of people do not know.


S&S -

Search on your ?. I think I remember a few people saying it is OK to bolt up and then drive over to a shop as long as it is not too far to weld everything up. (Dont know where in AZ you are, but check around for other cruiser people and/or a club. Usually someone knows someone with a welder.)

Love to Ski -
Again all rigs are different, but you will more than likely need more than a 1" BL to clear 35's with a OME set-up. At least if you plan to offroad it decently.
My 4" Alcan's and 33's rub at full tuck. But I dont have extended bump stops or anything.
 
I'm guessing the "jitters" comes from changing the caster when you raise the front & lower the rear of the front spring. PO did a 2" shackle lift on my '84 & I have to be careful not to sneeze on the freeway - I'll end up in another lane.
 
"A 60 and a 40 are very very different vehicles. Especially when it comes to driving type. Remeber that when you go to make opinions."

this is very true. I have owned several 40s with and with out SR. On a 40 it makes street driving much more managable(IMO). I have read that for "hardcore" rock crawlin' the original set up is more ideal. I am sure lots of opinions differ on that too.

I am new to 60s, and after driving my stock 84 for a couple weeks, with worn out bushings and loose steering(probably related), I would say that for highway driving SR is not needed like on a 40. Maybe for dirt roads it would help smooth things out.

Somebody said SR is better on a SOA rig, why is that? Running OE springs, designed for the original set up, seems like it would be better to keep the OE design. Do the axle wrap issues of SOA make SR needed? Does anyone have specific reasons why or why not to do SR with SUA? When it is said that off-road driving is improved with SR, is that driving over washboard, or actually negotiating trails? Can anyone give specifics of what is meant by "better," with either set up.
 
Corbet said:
...I don't understand how a SR could make the front end "jittery"? I had a SR on my 40 when it was running and loved it. Would never go back. It was set up with OME 2.5" springs. The SR was done by Cruiser Outfitters. Maybe the problem is with MAF's SR kit, not the principles behind a SR?

Based on my personal experience I would go SR on my 60 too. But the MAF SR kit has been getting ragged on so much lately I'm thinking SOA and just get it over with.

A properly done Shackle Reversal can be very advantageous, improved ride, handling, etc... I did an SR on mine (NOT drop bracket) and LOVE it... In fact I can't think of anyone that doesn't like the post results of a SR... FJ40, 60, etc.... My FJ60 was SR'd, my first 40 and my 55 were not, all SOA, said and done I completely prefer the SR. There are pros and cons, tradeoffs, etc.

How about a shackle-reversal, reversal... :D
SR_R.jpg
 
I run a OME sr lift kit with 35s and it drives perfect (SUA)... I can let go of the wheel at 75mph and it'll drive straight as an arrow and it doesnt shake a lick... Works great in my opinion. Does well offroad too. Most likely going to do a SOA here soon so I can get some bigger shoes under here too.

leanin.jpg
 
Well ordered my kit today.
I'll post a new thread with the build up in progess.

Thanks for all the replies and the guys at MAF
 
I am surprised there are not more people with this lift. I have OME Medium suspension with MAF SR. I have had it for over 4 years now and it is great. I have had the truck up to 85 MPH with no problem. The SR was an easy install, and it MUST BE WELDED. Check my ride here. https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=40087&page=8 it is about midway down the registry.

The truck drives straight, and I use it as a daily driver. It is a SUA with a total of about 4 inches of lift. I ran 33 MTs no prob, but now I have some baby 32.5 ATs to save a little on gas, and bc they were FREE!
 
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S&S1stCruzer said:
Can this kit be installed with out welding the new front hangers/shackles?

I can't weld but I can installed the majority of kit Just trying to plan out if i can install it and get to point where it's drive able and I can get it to a shop to do the welding portion.

No, welding is mandatory. But to install the MAF SR you use the bumper bracket bolts to line up where the bracket should go. Then you install 5 grade 8 bolts per side and then carefully drive to your friendly welder to have them finish the job. I think you will need to drill one hole on each side to accomodate for one of the bolts. I drove on the bolts for a couple of miles so I know it will get you to a nearby welder. But please drive carefully. Good luck.
 
Grind off spring mounts yes - no?

Do you have grind off the original leaf spring mounts in the front?
I see where bolt on the new mounting bracket but just wanted to make sure before I take the grinder the stock mount location.

Does any one have any pics of this?
 
Kurt -
What do you mean by "A properly done Shackle Reversal"?

Is your pic a of double-reverse (looks like it to me).

My interest is that it doesn't look like any kind of forward shackle will move because of intereference from my plow mount. I could avoid this problem by reversing the springs, but I'm afraid of screwing more things up since I have over twice the original torque with the 5.7 Vortec. And I tend to believe JimC, although a friend of mine (also with SBC) says the SR was the best mod he's done to date.
 
S&S1stCruzer said:
Do you have grind off the original leaf spring mounts in the front?
I see where bolt on the new mounting bracket but just wanted to make sure before I take the grinder the stock mount location.

Does any one have any pics of this?
No pics, but I ground the hell out of it. Just grind the weld on one side and grab a chisel and BFH to split the rest of the mount from the frame. Straightforward, but there's a lot of extra grinding to get the new bracket seated nicely how it should be.
 
Just make sure that you don't remove that piece of plate between the front shackle hangers and the frame. I did and ended up having to put a piece of plate in there to fill the gap. It wasn't that hard to weld up, and there are techniques you can use during welding to allow for the frame to still flex in that spot. I sold my FJ-62 before I could put any real miles on it after the reversal, but I am planning on doing it again on my FJ-60. Good luck!
 
I'm not sure in the new model of the Shackle Reversal Kit .. but when I bought mine ( kmaybe 4 years ago ) good welding are mandatory.

I ran few years SU with 33" nice nice improvement in my rig .. and now with SO is the same handling with better flex.
 
Tinker said:
Kurt -
What do you mean by "A properly done Shackle Reversal"?

Is your pic a of double-reverse (looks like it to me).....

IMHO a shackle reversal should be done THROUGH the frame, not below the frame. The ideal goal is to keep the mounting locations horizontal, moving the back one down below the frame require using a drop bracket (such as the LCAH) kit. We use a tube through the frame as the rear mount (similar to a OE leaf sprung Toyota truck). Do other kits work? sure, I'm not here to say they won't. But there are many different ways to do the same job. We have been doing SR's & SOA's for 15+ years... I wouldn't change the method ;)

As for the pic. That is a SR done by another local shop, and because the mounts were NOT horizontal (rear shackle was below the frame and the front mount is as seen). It had horrible handling characteristics... the owner then re-reversed the shackles. I posted in pure humor ;)
 

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