My copy of techstream does not allow for thatI know other manufactures dealer can usually change the REV's Per Mile usually up to a 315 tire size , anyone know if the dealer or Tech Steam is there any REV Per mile adjustment ?
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My copy of techstream does not allow for thatI know other manufactures dealer can usually change the REV's Per Mile usually up to a 315 tire size , anyone know if the dealer or Tech Steam is there any REV Per mile adjustment ?
When I dug into this years ago that was my takeaway.I think it may not be possible to fix both the speedo and OD if the same speed sensor input is used for both speedo and OD without getting into the ECU logic and changing something downstream of the wheel speed input.
Looking at the yellow box site and the 200 wiring diagram it seems like it would work if we installed 4 and synchronized the offsets; otherwise not sure how we get the corrected signal out onto the can-bus from the Skid control ECU.
Although 4 would be a bit of an investment, it does look like this would 'treat the source' and thus put all systems downstream of the speed sensors themselves back on the same page for 'stock' functionality.
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Those wheel sensors handle signaling for the ABS though. Personally I wouldn’t want to do anything to interrupt or alter their signal.Anyone ever try this? It makes total sense in my mind. As far as I know, the LX uses the same setup of gathering speed info from the sensors at the actual wheel. The yellow box says it works with all of the modern type of sensor signals like hall effect, reed switch, and inductive coil. If I'm not mistaking ours is a 2 wire inductive coil based sensor.
It seems like this is the best option on the lx if it works, as it would affect all downstream systems too. We would simply be intercepting the signal wire off the sensor at each wheel, passing it through the yellow box for modification, and send it back on its way to whatever controller those signals go to get parsed and converted into canbus language.
Yeah, I've investigated this based on the same response in another thread (maybe you posted the same reply?). However, there's nothing special going on here at the sensor. It's not a 2way communication system. Its a simple one way signal being sent. It's single purpose is to detect wheel speed, thats all. I'd argue that right now, on 35s, the abs system on my lx won't operate like it's supposed to because of the tires. In fact, I've had two occasions where I've had to emergency brake on the highway, and the result was an overly aggressive ABS system action that continued to apply braking for me even after I got off the brake. The only way I can express the feeling is like a runaway brake application. Smash the brakes due to someone cutting you off, for example, and within a split second you are already taking your foot off the brake but by then the abs system took over and is still braking for you. It's a really odd feeling because it turns into a much harder brake maneuver than you intended it to be.Those wheel sensors handle signaling for the ABS though. Personally I wouldn’t want to do anything to interrupt or alter their signal.
In fact, I've had two occasions where I've had to emergency brake on the highway, and the result was an overly aggressive ABS system action that continued to apply braking for me even after I got off the brake. The only way I can express the feeling is like a runaway brake application. Smash the brakes due to someone cutting you off, for example, and within a split second you are already taking your foot off the brake but by then the abs system took over and is still braking for you. It's a really odd feeling because it turns into a much harder brake maneuver than you intended it to be.
And there's the rub: reliability. That's really the only thing holding me back on trying this out. Who knows how long these little devices will hold up to being exposed to the elements. One thing I thought of is following the wiring to see how it's routed and maybe intercept the wiring for each sensor wherever they converge, which is hopefully inside the vehicle somewhere.I forget the 3 letter system name but that is “normal” behavior for this platform independent of tire size. Mine has done it a couple of times in six years for emergency braking on stock rubber.
But yeah it sounds like you’ve wrapped your head around what these systems do. If you’re comfortable with putting aftermarket hardware with their level of build quality in-line for such a system go ahead, but IMO there’s a risk that’s worth mentioning to people that don’t understand the nuts and bolts as well.
I’m also really happy with my 16+ brakes even on stock diameter rubber. And yes it’s odd.. on mine it typically even pretensions the seatbelts. It’s a really intrusive system.. but I do feel like it may help some drivers avoid a front-end collision. But then it probably increases the odds of being rear-ended.And there's the rub: reliability. That's really the only thing holding me back on trying this out. Who knows how long these little devices will hold up to being exposed to the elements. One thing I thought of is following the wiring to see how it's routed and maybe intercept the wiring for each sensor wherever they converge, which is hopefully inside the vehicle somewhere.
Thanks for the info about the braking situation being normal even on factory size tires. If that's the case, man that sucks lol
I did upgrade my 14 to the 16+ calipers and rotors up front. Made a huge difference in braking performance on 35s and the added weight of mods. I went with the same factory branded stuff toyota uses, Advics.
I’m also really happy with my 16+ brakes even on stock diameter rubber. And yes it’s odd.. on mine it typically even pretensions the seatbelts. It’s a really intrusive system.. but I do feel like it may help some drivers avoid a front-end collision. But then it probably increases the odds of being rear-ended.
And yes that’s exactly my concern with these.. reliability. As for converging, from memory the rears converge near the upper control arms. The fronts probably don’t until close to the ABS computer, but I’d have to dig around in the EWD to be sure. I also can’t remember whether these wires are shielded or not, but I do know Toyota takes extra steps to maintain function and durability like molding both conductors into a single rubber wire, presumably to eliminate chafing. Which makes sense as they probably consider this a safety critical circuit.
VF Tuner map edit has a feature which allows for entry of tire diameter. Currently mine is set to factory whereas my tires are approx 33” diameter. Not sure exactly what features are affected by this setting; at least the fuel economy/range, possibly the speedometer. Will confirm here if/when I test.
Huh, interesting. As I understand it, regearing has zero impact on how the speedo reads, since the speed is measured at the wheels and not the transmission output shaft on the 200 series (LC/LX).With 4.88's and 34's the speedo is almost dead on. No adjustment or math needed.
Those are my exact numbers, essentially, on my 14 on stock gears and 35s (skinny kenda klever rt 35x10.5). At 65 indicated I'm right at 70 on gps. Which confirms what everyone says about gearing having no effect on speedo.4.88 and 34.5” 35s my Speedometer is about 8 percent slow.
61 is about 65.
69 is about 75
Nope, not on the 200With 4.88's and 34's the speedo is almost dead on. No adjustment or math needed.
How does lower gearing not change the wheel speed?Nope, not on the 200
Speed is calculated by taking the average wheel speed sensor. Gearing has no impact on the Speedo.
Lower gearing only changes the engine speed relative to the tire speed. If the computer is taking the wheel speed measurement from the ends of the axle, then the gears have no effect on the calculation. At any given speed the axle shafts will rotate at the same speed regardless of the gears.How does lower gearing not change the wheel speed?
I get you cannot re-program the computer, but if you match the re-gear to the tire size to return the wheel speed to the original wheel speed, it should be correct?