3FE upper radiator hose - Any tricks???

[ashooter]

Any tricks for getting to this dirty name?


My truck is a '92 FJ80, but FSM for this and FJ62 is the same, so figured maybe somebody with a 62 might have some input... The damned thing is tucked in tight underneath the the power steering pump, and behind/under the AC compressor... I can't figure out how to get at it, without literally pulling the AC compressor out of the truck. Seems insane that changing a radiator hose would require that, so I thought somebody might have a "trick" that I haven't figured out.

Help?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[Godwin]

When I last did cooling system work on the 3FE I think I had to pull the AC compressor to change out that hose.

 

[ashooter]

Grrr.... That's what I was trying to avoid.

Thanks, though!

 

[toy_tek]

This one yes? This is mine after I pulled the PS and AC to replace it.

 

[Skniper]

The front of the 3FE is such a m*****f*****r to work on.

 

[Godwin]

The front of the 3FE is such a m*****f*****r work on.

The worst

 

[ashooter]

View attachment 3240634

This one yes? This is mine after I pulled the PS and AC to replace it.

Yep. That's the one.

That's so crazy to think about all the sh*t you have to pull out of there to get to it. I guess I'll set aside a weekend and get to it.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, I hate doing ours. The bad thing is with two rubber hoses plus the metal pipe.which screws into the bottom every thing has to line up just right. And you need to align the clamp so you can tighten them if they leak,good luck. Still hard if you pull the ac compressor it’s mount and the power steering pump.very little space.Use Toyota hoses only in this area size matters a lot.

 

[88TXCruiser]

We successfully replaced a water pump in ours without removing the PS pump and the AC compressor - but i'm not exactly sure how. we definitely used a "stud puller" to get the studs out of the block so we could slide the water pump to the side. When we re-installed the new pump we used regular hex head bolts. Because the section of hose is so short and between two rigid connections (the water pump and the section of metal tube) I'd think you would have to be able to move either the metal hose piece or the water pump in order to remove that piece of hose. I probably should have replaced the hose while I had the water pump out but didn't. I'm sure that will come back to bite me.

 

[ashooter]

Yeah, I replaced the water pump 15ish years ago, not long after I first bought this truck... Didn't have the foresight to swap that hose, at the time. It hasn't been changed in at least that long. For all I know, it's the same one that was put on at the factory in 1992! It is leaking a LITTLE, but so far so good.

I do have an OEM hose in hand, just need to get a helper and a free weekend to pull whatever necessary to swap the damned thing.

 

[airmech]

Yeah, I replaced the water pump 15ish years ago, not long after I first bought this truck... Didn't have the foresight to swap that hose, at the time. It hasn't been changed in at least that long. For all I know, it's the same one that was put on at the factory in 1992! It is leaking a LITTLE, but so far so good.

I do have an OEM hose in hand, just need to get a helper and a free weekend to pull whatever necessary to swap the damned thing.

I realize this is a very old post, but I'm in the process of replacing that same hose on my 88 FJ62. My ac compressor has been leaking, so in
the process of replacing it, (ac is a must in Texas) I decided to change that hose which I think is original. Not only the compressor has to come out, but also the mounting bracket. The ends of the metal tube it attaches to is pretty rusty, but I think I can clean it up. I'm done for the day.

 

[Spook50]

There is a bit of a trick to replacing it out without removing the power steering pump and A/C compressor, but the lower hose and section of hard tube that's bolted to the underside of the block have to be removed.

First get the lower hose removed completely, then unbolt the tube. You'll have to go by feel here, and it is a royal pain in the arse, but loosen the UPPER hose clamp as much as possible. Do NOT loosen the lower clamp. With the upper clamp loosened, grab the hard tube from underneath and wriggle it as best you can until the hose separates from the water pump inlet.

Mark the tube where the old hose ends and also so you can identify the position of either the inner or outer bend of the hose. Install the new hose to the tube and secure it with a spring clamp (same P/N as the upper radiator hose clamps). Now slide a new wire style hose clamp over the hose and fit the hose/tube assembly back onto the water pump inlet, then secure the tube back to the block. Now you can position the new clamp so that the bolt head faces back and get a small ratchet with 10mm socket (or whatever size it was. I think it was 10mm) onto it to snug it down. Once that's done the lower hose can be reinstalled and secured with spring clamps as well. I prefer the spring clamps above all others, but in the case of the top clamp on the upper hose, releasing a spring clamp would be impossible without removing the compressor and PS pump, so the wire style clamp is necessary.

 

[airmech]

There is a bit of a trick to replacing it out without removing the power steering pump and A/C compressor, but the lower hose and section of hard tube that's bolted to the underside of the block have to be removed.

First get the lower hose removed completely, then unbolt the tube. You'll have to go by feel here, and it is a royal pain in the arse, but loosen the UPPER hose clamp as much as possible. Do NOT loosen the lower clamp. With the upper clamp loosened, grab the hard tube from underneath and wriggle it as best you can until the hose separates from the water pump inlet.

Mark the tube where the old hose ends and also so you can identify the position of either the inner or outer bend of the hose. Install the new hose to the tube and secure it with a spring clamp (same P/N as the upper radiator hose clamps). Now slide a new wire style hose clamp over the hose and fit the hose/tube assembly back onto the water pump inlet, then secure the tube back to the block. Now you can position the new clamp so that the bolt head faces back and get a small ratchet with 10mm socket (or whatever size it was. I think it was 10mm) onto it to snug it down. Once that's done the lower hose can be reinstalled and secured with spring clamps as well. I prefer the spring clamps above all others, but in the case of the top clamp on the upper hose, releasing a spring clamp would be impossible without removing the compressor and PS pump, so the wire style clamp is necessary.

Victory. Happened to have a piece of hose that was a little shorter than I wanted, but it worked. Times like this maybe an ls3 swap sounds good, but $$$$.