Wrong tire pic
Registry 3FE Owners Check-In (16 Viewers)
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New to me '91 TLC
Just purchased off local classifieds. '91 3FE FJ80 203k miles. Needs a lot of work, but it only cost me $1600.
Here are the plans:
To get it road worthy, I just need an alignment and the water pump replaced (I hope)
Just purchased off local classifieds. '91 3FE FJ80 203k miles. Needs a lot of work, but it only cost me $1600.
Here are the plans:
- Water pump replacement - leaks pretty bad, common for this mileage. Pump was included in sales price.
- Fluids and Filters
- Throttle Body
- Injectors
To get it road worthy, I just need an alignment and the water pump replaced (I hope)
Nice find, that's my favorite color combo.
Sent from my iPhone using magic
Sent from my iPhone using magic
New shoes and tint!
33x12.5x15 stock rims
33x12.5x15 stock rims
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I sprung for a '91 FJ80 in Aug with 228K. receipts show it had an engine rebuilt at 176K. Lots of clues tell me it sat a lot the last few years.
I've been slowing working on it, and this is what I've done to the engine so far:
plugs, wires, rotor, cap
throttle position sensor
new air cleaner-to-engine hose
replaced all the vacuum lines
power steering pump and high pressure hose
water pump
recharged the Freon (already had an R-134 conversion kit on it).
It has seemed "doggy" between 10-20 mph since I got it. Still does after all of this, but otherwise runs good. Also, randomly, I've experiencing engine power loss. For example, I'll be cruising down 290 @75mph, and all of sudden it will "hiccup", with check engine light flashing just for an instant as tach needle falls, and then it's right back to doing everything normal. I've driven around for hours, trying to "make" it happen, and I can't find a repeatable set of inputs that cause that output. Still trouble shooting it. Any tips?
I've been slowing working on it, and this is what I've done to the engine so far:
plugs, wires, rotor, cap
throttle position sensor
new air cleaner-to-engine hose
replaced all the vacuum lines
power steering pump and high pressure hose
water pump
recharged the Freon (already had an R-134 conversion kit on it).
It has seemed "doggy" between 10-20 mph since I got it. Still does after all of this, but otherwise runs good. Also, randomly, I've experiencing engine power loss. For example, I'll be cruising down 290 @75mph, and all of sudden it will "hiccup", with check engine light flashing just for an instant as tach needle falls, and then it's right back to doing everything normal. I've driven around for hours, trying to "make" it happen, and I can't find a repeatable set of inputs that cause that output. Still trouble shooting it. Any tips?
This is my '92 FZJ80, I have had it for a little over 3 months and so far I have a 4" OME, 33 Goodyear Kavlar on 15" rims, new Fuel Injectors, Full tune up, Sealed power distributor, and a few other details.
Red Beard
Cruisin'
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2007
- Threads
- 113
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- 1,081
- Location
- Kennett Square, PA
- Website
- cruisin4parts.com
New shoes and tint!
33x12.5x15 stock rims
Damn looks mint, man! Are those Cooper STTs? I used to have those! They look real good on the stock rims. And that tint makes me want to get one.
HI, Dave in San Diego
Have a blue 1996 series 80, 118,000 origional miles.
OME lift, 863's in the back, 860J's in the front
Iron pig rear bumper and tire swingout, Slee short bus in the front, with a Smittybilt 12,000 lb synthetic line winch
Rocky Road Sliders
Gobi rack, with HID lights in front, AND back (camping lights)
high output alternator
new carpet throughout
7 pin mod, and Center Locking Diff switch
Teflon coated American Racing rims, with Nitto Terra Grappler 295 x 75 Tires
LED Lights everywhere in the cabin, and two that are in the rear hatch (top) for cargo lights
3rd row middle seat belt so it is a LEGIT 8 passenger vehicle
Vehicle is combo of weekend warrior, desert rat mobile, family camper
I had to troubleshoot the diff lockers. Turns out the wiring behind the manifold was melted thru. BIG SHOUT OUT TO SD TRUX FOR THE WONDERFULL WORK DOING THIS !!!!!!! Thanks John !
Have a blue 1996 series 80, 118,000 origional miles.
OME lift, 863's in the back, 860J's in the front
Iron pig rear bumper and tire swingout, Slee short bus in the front, with a Smittybilt 12,000 lb synthetic line winch
Rocky Road Sliders
Gobi rack, with HID lights in front, AND back (camping lights)
high output alternator
new carpet throughout
7 pin mod, and Center Locking Diff switch
Teflon coated American Racing rims, with Nitto Terra Grappler 295 x 75 Tires
LED Lights everywhere in the cabin, and two that are in the rear hatch (top) for cargo lights
3rd row middle seat belt so it is a LEGIT 8 passenger vehicle
Vehicle is combo of weekend warrior, desert rat mobile, family camper
I had to troubleshoot the diff lockers. Turns out the wiring behind the manifold was melted thru. BIG SHOUT OUT TO SD TRUX FOR THE WONDERFULL WORK DOING THIS !!!!!!! Thanks John !
Cheers all!
New to IH8MUD, but as a new owner of a 1991 FJ80 I have to chime in. I think I got a pretty good deal on a clean looking car with 141,000 miles for $3k, knowing it would need some work. It certainly was a mall queen, with no indication of damage or rust on the undercarriage. My civic looks worse. I bought her without much prep or knowledge, since I was looking for a project car and I realized how much I missed my 1987 Custom Cab Toyota 4x4 (full backseat) which I had for 14 years.
I noticed that the steering was loose, so I assumed a bad wheel bearing. The drivers side birf was slightly messy with a small oily grease ooze. The engine had a slightly rough and high idle. No AC - no light, no engine change, no cooling, no blower on high. Had to pull the bars off the front first thing. I drove it for a little while, enough to determine it needed some work...
- Replaced all small vacuum lines and reconnected some. One concerned me because the hard pipe is rusty (I'll start thread on that). Bought plugs, wire, dizzy cap and rotor (need o-ring/seal?). I guess I still need spark plug gaskets?
- A complete brake flush and bleed. The fluid came out nearly black at first, but now has a firm pedal. Still sinks too far, but the pads are worn and I will change the MC soon.
- Replaced all relays associated with AC - blower works, but no cold air. Quoted $200 to fill with freon.
- Drained front diff and got gloppy oil - birf is leaking into diff. Will check for air vent problems.
- While doing this I noticed a loose steering knuckle stud, which was actually sheared off. Am going to try to remove today while on vehicle. If not, I will start an axle job this weekend.
- Ordered new OEM stud kit for both sides with cone washers, split washers, and nuts.
- May as well order axle kit for "while I am in there" and replace seal with OEM seal, swap and grease birfs, replace wheel bearings and steering knuckle bearings, and properly locktite, install, and torque studs.
- May as well order new calipers and rotors from 94-95 years (pre-ABS) and pads from a 100 series to improve the braking "while I am in there".
- Bought with far offset to outside 15" wheels. Will be looking for used 16" wheels from FJ or Tacoma, preferably cheap and with tires
There is more - gonna flush and fill radiator - debating red or green
- redo the wiring - seems like some deadend PO installed crap in fuse boxes. Gotta go!!
Cheers again, M
New to IH8MUD, but as a new owner of a 1991 FJ80 I have to chime in. I think I got a pretty good deal on a clean looking car with 141,000 miles for $3k, knowing it would need some work. It certainly was a mall queen, with no indication of damage or rust on the undercarriage. My civic looks worse. I bought her without much prep or knowledge, since I was looking for a project car and I realized how much I missed my 1987 Custom Cab Toyota 4x4 (full backseat) which I had for 14 years.
I noticed that the steering was loose, so I assumed a bad wheel bearing. The drivers side birf was slightly messy with a small oily grease ooze. The engine had a slightly rough and high idle. No AC - no light, no engine change, no cooling, no blower on high. Had to pull the bars off the front first thing. I drove it for a little while, enough to determine it needed some work...
- Replaced all small vacuum lines and reconnected some. One concerned me because the hard pipe is rusty (I'll start thread on that). Bought plugs, wire, dizzy cap and rotor (need o-ring/seal?). I guess I still need spark plug gaskets?
- A complete brake flush and bleed. The fluid came out nearly black at first, but now has a firm pedal. Still sinks too far, but the pads are worn and I will change the MC soon.
- Replaced all relays associated with AC - blower works, but no cold air. Quoted $200 to fill with freon.
- Drained front diff and got gloppy oil - birf is leaking into diff. Will check for air vent problems.
- While doing this I noticed a loose steering knuckle stud, which was actually sheared off. Am going to try to remove today while on vehicle. If not, I will start an axle job this weekend.
- Ordered new OEM stud kit for both sides with cone washers, split washers, and nuts.
- May as well order axle kit for "while I am in there" and replace seal with OEM seal, swap and grease birfs, replace wheel bearings and steering knuckle bearings, and properly locktite, install, and torque studs.
- May as well order new calipers and rotors from 94-95 years (pre-ABS) and pads from a 100 series to improve the braking "while I am in there".
- Bought with far offset to outside 15" wheels. Will be looking for used 16" wheels from FJ or Tacoma, preferably cheap and with tires
There is more - gonna flush and fill radiator - debating red or green
- redo the wiring - seems like some deadend PO installed crap in fuse boxes. Gotta go!!
Cheers again, M
Awesome. Looks really clean! Way to dig in, too. I'm sure someone will chime in if I'm wrong but you shouldn't need any gaskets for the spark plugs on the 3fe. There is however the the big O-ring ("packing") that goes on the dizzy cap as well as the smaller O-ring that fits on the shaft of the dizzy itself - just have to yank the whole unit to install.
Welcome!
Welcome!
I am the proud owner of a 91 that has a ome 2 1/2" heavy lift some homemade rock sliders arb front bumper with 10000# winch home made rear bumper with two swing outs, plus 4.29 gears and an arb front locker with a aussie in the rear... I will post some pics when I figure out how to, then the other 91 is being bobbed off in my garage, maybe will be done this summer!!! I am blessed
Howsit guys,
Just purchased my 1st LC. A clean 97' Moonglow Pearl with 166k miles. I've been driving pretty much nothing but Toyota 4x4's since I was a kid (a few Jeep's and a Tahoe as well) but this is my 1st LC. I'm planning on a OME medium lift, 315 BFG KO's, and the part-time kit from Marks Adapters since 4x4 spots are limited out here. The majority of miles will be from pavement here unfortunately. This was my most previous Toyota, a 06' TRD Sport Taco. I'll get some images up of my 80 soon.
ALOHAs
Just purchased my 1st LC. A clean 97' Moonglow Pearl with 166k miles. I've been driving pretty much nothing but Toyota 4x4's since I was a kid (a few Jeep's and a Tahoe as well) but this is my 1st LC. I'm planning on a OME medium lift, 315 BFG KO's, and the part-time kit from Marks Adapters since 4x4 spots are limited out here. The majority of miles will be from pavement here unfortunately. This was my most previous Toyota, a 06' TRD Sport Taco. I'll get some images up of my 80 soon.
ALOHAs
Well, for the first time I can readily remember, an ez-out worked well. I was able to drill the knuckle stud and remove it. Remember to wear safety googles, not just glasses when looking up and drilling metal. Even so, some small pieces got into my eye and worked their way out over the next few days.
While I had the truck on the stand, I noticed considerable play in both the 3&9 and 6&12 positions. Sure enough the PS relay rod end is shot, but worse, both sides had wheel bearings that were not even finger tight or locked with the washer. I did not have the proper 54mm socket, not could I find one except for a 3/4" behemoth at Sears. Instead I used a brass punch to tap the adjusting nut tight, then installed the tabbed washer, and then again punched the lock nut tight. I properly bent the tabs and plan on replacing the bearings when I get to the axle.
I also noticed a possible rear arch and dizzy o-ring leak. Checking the oil pan bolts, it appears that one had been replaced, since it had a phillips head, and all of them were quite lose, allowing 1/2 to a full turn to tighten. I snugged them hand tight, not to FSM, since the gasket is in who knows what condition... If it makes the leak worse, I'll get replace the oil pan gasket sooner instead of later.
Does anyone know why I might have a small oil leak on the drivers side? It appears there is some oil on the top of the intake manifold where it goes into the head. Would the oil cover gasket be a possible culprit? I'll R&R when I adjust the valves in any event.
Cheers
Just purchased this 92 from CL. 180k and pretty solid. It's my first FJ after many years of wanting one and I couldn't be happier.
She's pretty much all stock except for a beefed-up radiator and wheel spacers.
The short list for this old girl includes the oil pan gasket, shaky mirror, belts, fluids, possibly some new shocks, and troubleshooting the famous clunk in the driveline - all of which seem to be pretty well documented in the threads.
Can't wait to take this baby camping!
She's pretty much all stock except for a beefed-up radiator and wheel spacers.
The short list for this old girl includes the oil pan gasket, shaky mirror, belts, fluids, possibly some new shocks, and troubleshooting the famous clunk in the driveline - all of which seem to be pretty well documented in the threads.
Can't wait to take this baby camping!
1992 fj80
Charleston SC
Two tone gold and brown soon to be flat desert tan and black. Interior is in process of being custom painted. The PO wasn't very good to the vehicle and I know absolutely nothing about it. It does have painted factory wheels and as far as I know everything in it is factory. I have removed a Viper security system that no longer worked and have a ton of work to do. It is a daily driver and I plan to use it to go camping and fishing and maybe even pull a boat one day.
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Hello All,
New to FJ80s and Ih8mud.com. I was out cruising around and found a 1991 FJ80 and I had to have it. It has 211k Miles and needs a water pump but picked it up for 2600 and it is in fairly good shape. I plan on doing the water pump in a week or so. It is a toy and I cant wait to get it running great so I can throw and a mild lift on and get some 35s.
Doug
Sacramento CA
New to FJ80s and Ih8mud.com. I was out cruising around and found a 1991 FJ80 and I had to have it. It has 211k Miles and needs a water pump but picked it up for 2600 and it is in fairly good shape. I plan on doing the water pump in a week or so. It is a toy and I cant wait to get it running great so I can throw and a mild lift on and get some 35s.
Doug
Sacramento CA
