3FE oil pan question (1 Viewer)

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Seminole

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Sorry to bring up another oil pan question, but the last round was all about the 1FZ. I need to change the oil pan gasket on mine due to leakage. Question 1 is: is it as straight forward as the FSM says it is? Meaning, are there any surprises or tricks, especially getting the new one on the pan and securely to the block? Anything to be exceptionally careful of?
Question 2: At 225k, should I replace the oil pump while it's accessable? I don't have any REAL symptoms of a problem other than the oil pressure is a little lower than usual (dead center between the 1st and second tick at speed, and at or just below the 1st tick at warm idle; it used to run at the second tick at speed)but well within spec at both idle and at speed ( I haven't tested the sender yet as it is only a year old and haven't put a mechanical gauge on the oil pressure yet). Any other PM items while it's opened up?
Just for reference: 225k, running M1 0w-40, OEM filter, tuned about 5k ago, no other problems, runs GREAT. 3 FE Powa!(Sorry DanKunz, I had to) TIA for any help or guidance!
 
GD Oil Pan

Replacing the oil pan on a 3FE is a pain in the a$#. I went after a small leak to keep the garage floor clean and ended up replacing the entire pan. There's no good way to pry the pan from the block all the way around the block - granted I was on my back on a crawler but even on a lift it would be a challenge. The old gasket seemed like it was glued on w/ JB weld. Damn truck sat for 3 days intil I could get a new pan and gasket. Best advice is to leave well enough alone - if you must replace it be patient and work a putty knife or pry bar around the flange. Good luck.

Ming
 
I've done a 3FE oil pan gasket, but it was on a FJ62, not an 80. But what helped was jacking up the truck somewhat, then supporting the frame on jack stands. That gave me more wiggle room between the pan and the tie rods & axle. I used a bottle jack & a 2x4 scrap to break the pan free, put the jack on the frame somewhere, then the 2x4 goes against the pan, then once you push it sideways from both directions it should fall off. You don't want to pry on the pan with anything but your fingers if you can help it.

Take your time getting all the old crap off.. use a putty knife on the engine, screwdirver in the small areas, and take a wire wheel to the lip around the pan once you have it off, then hose it out. For extra credit, you can then repaint the outside of your pan. By all means use the Toyota one piece gasket, with hoops attached. Don't follow the Haynes manual, it'll tell you to remove the starter which is just silly.

Oh, and wear some safety glasses, because you will get drips in the eye that's a certainty. Possible hijack: I'm thinking of doing this on my 80, so will be interested to hear how this compares.
 
Don't know if the 3FE pan and gasket are similar to the 1FZ, in that the 1FZ lower pan has a groove in it and trying to get the sealer cleaned out of that part with a screw driver doesn't work to good. Gasket remover on the pan, then a wire brush and some parts cleaner to get all the old stuff off, worked like a charm for me.

:cheers:
Rookie2
 
I was told at the "Cruiser Shop" in Dallas that the gasket from the -60 will fit the -80 and it works better and is easier to use than the tube/goob/crap...For what it's worth...
 
I personally have not done a 3fe in a 80, but I would guess that you would have to undo the motor mounts and jack up the engine as with the 1fz. I would also jack up the truck and use jack stands behind the lower control arm mounts, remove the tires and allow the axle to droop. Remove the anti sway bar totally(makes life easier). Use a propane torch to heat up the flange after removing the bolts. This will make the gasket real soft if you heat it enough (i use a torch all the time on pan gaskets both 3fe and 1fz). on the install I use 3M black weather strip adheasive to glue the gasket to the pan. It is like contact cement, I like it becasue it will not allow the gasket to move when you go to put it up. It is about a 2 1/2 -3 hour job in a 62 so I would figure no more than 4 hrs if your lucky. as for the oil pump, You are only going off the factory guage, I would get a better guage to see what the real values are before you mess with stuff that works. then read the factory psi specks as to what to expect. It may be ok and your pressure guage or sender is messed up. later robbie
 
Thanks for all the replies and pointers. I am going to do some more diagnostics this weekend to determine the extent and depth of what I need to do if anything. If I NEED to do this, I'll document the whole thing and post (maybe to tech or FAQ). After all, it's just a little seepage, for now.
 
It is a tip I got from the Ozzies. Give credit where credit is due. It does save the pan, if heated right very little force is needed to seperate the pan from the block. later robbie
 
in the process of changing my oil pan gasket on my 3fe, and yes to pry the oil pan from the block was a pain in the a**. the gasket was was really hard a had to dig it out in three places just to be able to get a chisle in between the pan and the block to pry it. once the one side was seperated the rest was'nt so bad..it probably helped alot that i always drain my oil hot. and to get the pan out i removed the rear tie rod bar.tomorrow ill give the second coat of paint and reinstall..good luck to ya.!
 
Reviving al oooooooold thread. I've never dealt with cork gaskets before. Anybody have advice on what to use for re-sealing?
 
jonheld said:
Why wouldn't you use the OEM cork gasket?
Click to expand...

Jon, of course I have the OE gasket. Its been on the shelf for 4 months waiting for me to do this... what I'm worried about is leaks due to inexperienced installation. I know enough that sealing these can be a real trick, especially around the arches and in the corners. I just spent 2 hours making sure the surfaces and corners are nice and clean.

Do you have any sage advice to getting a good seal on the first try?
 
20160904_195006.jpg
 
Golgo13 said:
Jon, of course I have the OE gasket. Its been on the shelf for 4 months waiting for me to do this... what I'm worried about is leaks due to inexperienced installation. I know enough that sealing these can be a real trick, especially around the arches and in the corners. I just spent 2 hours making sure the surfaces and corners are nice and clean.

Do you have any sage advice to getting a good seal on the first try?
Click to expand...
Last time I did mine I spent a good amount of time with scotchbrite pad followed up with some acetone. The front and rear arches will always be the trouble spots, but if they're clean before installation they won't leak.

I used about 6 or so hub studs threaded into the holes to keep the gasket in place as I wrestled with the pan.
Torque the bolts with a 1/4" drive ratchet in a circular pattern. What you want to see is the cork juuuuuust start to deform under each bolt.
Done with no leaks.
 
@jonheld do you use a sealant? I've been reading not to use RTV, but that bearing grease should work well. I also found some stuff called Hylomar that seems promising.
Am I overthinking it? I just don't want to spend all this time to just have to redo it in a couple months.
 
Thanks, @Tools R Us I have the snap-ups too. Great idea. Is it ok to pull the front and rear bearing caps? That would make it soooo much easier to clean them up.
Also, the oil and crud covering everything from past leaks is driving my OCD crazy. Do you think it is ok to remove the transmission mount arms one at a time to clean those areas?
Should I do anything with the oil pump while it is right in front of me?
 
Golgo13 said:
@jonheld do you use a sealant? I've been reading not to use RTV, but that bearing grease should work well. I also found some stuff called Hylomar that seems promising.
Am I overthinking it? I just don't want to spend all this time to just have to redo it in a couple months.
Click to expand...
I used nothing but the gasket. The trouble spots need to be clean clean clean.
 
Golgo13 said:
Thanks, @Tools R Us I have the snap-ups too. Great idea. Is it ok to pull the front and rear bearing caps? That would make it soooo much easier to clean them up.
Click to expand...

Unless the front stuff, timing cover/plate is coming off, I wouldn't remove the front. As long as you pay attention to proper seal, bearing alignment, torque, etc, the rear is pretty easy. Oil seeping at the rear cap and exposed bolts, is often blamed on the rear main seal and is easy to fix with some RTV. I also put a dab where the caps touch the block when installing the pan.

Golgo13 said:
Also, the oil and crud covering everything from past leaks is driving my OCD crazy. Do you think it is ok to remove the transmission mount arms one at a time to clean those areas?
Click to expand...

Sure, just torque them back on correctly.

Golgo13 said:
Should I do anything with the oil pump while it is right in front of me?
Click to expand...

If there is any debris on the screen, clean it off.
 
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