3FE Head Gasket
- Thread starter Rush
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- #162
It is, thanks man. Yeah, you have a black plug going into the back there. I have a weirdo alt then. Lovely.
See answers below in blue:
So I moved some of the dielectric grease the PO put on the diag terminal, and can see the contacts better. I get 12v at Fp when jumped to +B.
I get 10 volts at the pump with +B - Fp jumped and cranking both, despite the "homemade" splice of wires right before the fuel pump connector:
That sounds right. Not sure why there's a splice point there. Possibly an old repair?
So I did, and it came out alright... My EGR is now very clean.
And it comes out of the FPR return line, too, when cranking.
Then we know the FP is working and you have fuel to the rail. We move on.
So, this fuel line looks kinked to me:
Yea, that doesn't look right. Someone yanked on that line.
But I didn't do that, and the truck drove right up until I pulled the head last year.
So... Is it just not enough fuel... Is it old fuel... Is it the FPR?
Probably not.
Although... I don't see dots/a mark on the flexplate when the distributor is pointing at the #1 plug wire, but I was able to adjust valve lash, so that means I'm not out 180 degrees off on the distributor, right?
Because it's damn near impossible to see the dots on the flexplate on the 3FE through that stupid little window, you can open the access panel at the bottom of the bellhousing. Rotate the crank until you can clearly see the dots. Clean with a solvent and fill in the dots with white nail polish. This makes it 100 times easier to see through that stupid little window when trying to set timing.
And yes, it sounds like you're 180 out.
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- #164
jonheld said:
I'll do this today so I can see where the hell TDC is, which will likely confirm that I'm 180 out.
The reason I'd eliminated that as a possibility is because I was able to set valve lash for for both 1 and 6's TDC per the distributor's position.
Is it REALLY possible that the right rockers be slack when 180 off?
This is a rhetorical question, not contesting your claim, I'm just wrestling with the mechanics of it in my head.
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Not typically, as the valves are getting ready to open on the down stroke or upstroke.
If the distributor was out 180 and you adjusted your valves per THAT location, your valves are not adjusted correctly.
Your valves must be adjusted per the CAMSHAFT location, which would indicate TDC IF the cams were installed in the proper orientation.
The crankshaft doesn't care by itself when it's on TDC whether or not it is the compression stroke. It's not until the cam is installed in reference to the crank that it becomes fixed.
Crank
Cam
Distributor
Only reference in that order.
- Thread starter
- #166
Right. My thought was that if I had all 6 expected valves loose when the dist rotor pointed to plug tower 1, it WAS at/close enough to TDC on 1. Same thing when doing 6's TDC valves.
Agreed, that'd be my larger fear if the distributor was off 180. Ugh.
If the cam being set correctly is evidenced by the dots on the crank timing gear and the cam gear being aligned during assembly, then I'm confident this part is OK.
Understood, and agreed.
Going out to check the flexplate TDC dots/line now.
I took a trip down memory lane and was looking at all the pretty pictures in this thread.
At 1 point you had the rocker assembly and the cam out of the new engine. There are timing marks on the timing gears under the front cover. There were no pictures of this cover removed, so I'm not sure how you pulled the cam. In any case, it's important to align the timing marks before things go back together. Detailed in the FSM page EM-43.
At 1 point you had the rocker assembly and the cam out of the new engine. There are timing marks on the timing gears under the front cover. There were no pictures of this cover removed, so I'm not sure how you pulled the cam. In any case, it's important to align the timing marks before things go back together. Detailed in the FSM page EM-43.
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- #168
Haha, yeah...Late last year I got a diff motor, and that's the one I rebuilt. Local reputable machine shop did the head and machined the block.
I did follow the 3FE supplement's procedure and get the timing dots aligned: (Didn't know there was a diff FSM for 91-92 until I saw a post of yours recently)
but regardless, I paid attention that the dots were aligned, yes.
You can pick up a 92 FSM brand new from helm for $100 (they charge something like $30 for shipping what could be media mail, total ripoff).
Toyota 1992 Land Cruiser Repair Manual
The Toyota Service Manual outlines all service and repair procedures used in the service shop environment. All Toyota operating systems are explained in detail with easy to read text supported by high quality illustrations. Each section begins with an outline of operational theory, continues...
www.helminc.com
- Thread starter
- #170
You can pick up a 92 FSM brand new from helm for $100 (they charge something like $30 for shipping what could be media mail, total ripoff).
Toyota 1992 Land Cruiser Repair Manual
The Toyota Service Manual outlines all service and repair procedures used in the service shop environment. All Toyota operating systems are explained in detail with easy to read text supported by high quality illustrations. Each section begins with an outline of operational theory, continues...www.helminc.com
I've been thinking of getting one from @jonheld, now that I know I should.
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- #171
Still working on getting cyl1 to TDC.
I wired in a momentary switch between the red side of the battery and the starter solenoid, which worked great to do controlled rotations of the motor.
Until the starter stopped working.
I have another from the original motor, so I invented a few new curse words while wrangling starters into and out of the gap between the oil cooler hose and the charcoal canister.
The "new" starter fired fine, once or twice.
Then it did the same thing: just the solenoid 's "click". I gave it a minute, and tried with the key, which worked once or twice, and then didn't.
At this point I knew it was something outside the battery, and grabbed the charger.
It read the battery level as 54%, which could explain why.
I'll try again with a good/charged battery.
I wired in a momentary switch between the red side of the battery and the starter solenoid, which worked great to do controlled rotations of the motor.
Until the starter stopped working.
I have another from the original motor, so I invented a few new curse words while wrangling starters into and out of the gap between the oil cooler hose and the charcoal canister.
The "new" starter fired fine, once or twice.
Then it did the same thing: just the solenoid 's "click". I gave it a minute, and tried with the key, which worked once or twice, and then didn't.
At this point I knew it was something outside the battery, and grabbed the charger.
It read the battery level as 54%, which could explain why.
I'll try again with a good/charged battery.
ppc
M Go Blue
Forget using the starter, rotate the motor manually with a wrench on the crank bolt.
- Thread starter
- #174
FYI, the HF 18" crescent wrench opens to 2 1/8", which is plenty for the 46mm crank nut. The 15" is just a hair too small.
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- Thread starter
- #175
****ing finally:
And, in case there was any doubt:
And, in case there was any doubt:
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- #176
Because I'd like to never have to do this again and my timing light doesn't adjust, I measured the distance to 7degrees TDC:
which looks to be ~3.5 teeth apart.
So if I go exactly that far again from the 7deg TDC mark, it'd be 14 deg TDC.
So I figure 12 deg TDC should be right about here:
I'll put something there for the light to reflect off of.
which looks to be ~3.5 teeth apart.
So if I go exactly that far again from the 7deg TDC mark, it'd be 14 deg TDC.
So I figure 12 deg TDC should be right about here:
I'll put something there for the light to reflect off of.
- Thread starter
- #177
Well, it turns over and almost catches. It's bucking and kicking a lot more, which tells me the valves are off.
I'll set those now, and try again.
I'll set those now, and try again.
OK, that shows you're at TDC.
What is the cam/valves position at that location?
Check the valves on #1 and #6. Whichever one has BOTH rocker arms loose is the one on the compression stroke. Then point your distributor at THAT cylinder. The OTHER cylinder will have the EXHAUST valve already tight.
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- #179
I didn't trust the rocker tension, so I re-confirmed the TDC dots and cylinder via borescope as above.
And then I was able to set valve lash correctly, so that's handled.
I set the distributor correctly per the FSM as well.
Still no joy on starting. It's starting to fire, but then stumbles. I do smell gas, which is new.
I hooked up the timing light to each plug wire, and sparks are happening... Irregularly.
I think I have what I can only describe as inductive crosstalk: cylinders' spark influencing/impacting others. #3 is showing two strobes while cranking, and 5/6 are showing three.
I didn't get high-end plug wires, but I wouldn't expect this from even run-of-the-mill wires like I got.
1. Do these trucks need Toyota wires?
2. Should I try starting the truck for the first time with the diag jumper to keep timing at 7btdc?
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I'm going to let @jonheld jump back in on these questions.
I am of the opinion of Toyota wires, but I'm only familiar with the 1FZ-FE and mine spits out aftermarket parts.
I also think you should check your ground on your igniter.
Double check all your ground cables between the engine, body, frame. I think the FZJ has at least 6. Not sure on the FJ.
