3FE Head Gasket

bcomnes

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I need to change my oil pan seal, bolts are leaking. Anyone know if thats possible to do without an engine pull?
 
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I need to change my oil pan seal, bolts are leaking. Anyone know if thats possible to do without an engine pull?
Yep, you should be able to.
The oil pump will need to come off of the block, and you'll want to jack the front of the truck up to let the axle hang as low as possible.

You can see here why I say you'll want to take the pump off:
3FE Head Gasket

The gasket itself should be the one-piece one. I got mine from @cruiseroutfit : Cruiser Outfitters (look for OP61011)
 
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Yep, you should be able to.
The oil pump will need to come off of the block, and you'll want to jack the front of the truck up to let the axle hang as low as possible.

You can see here why I say you'll want to take the pump off:
3FE Head Gasket

The gasket itself should be the one-piece one. I got mine from @cruiseroutfit : Cruiser Outfitters (look for OP61011)
Also: The 6x series forum is a wealth of knowledge on this sort of thing, since they also have 3F/3F-E motors.
 
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Two set screws. So you put one in, then the other one in front of it? Do you torque both or just the top?
I torqued both, with red loctite on both.
One in with loctite, torque. Then the next one with loctite, torque. I've put too much time into this motor to find all 8 quarts of oil outside the motor someday. ;)
 
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So those injectors I thought were different model year to model year... Nope. My original motor's injectors had no pintle caps:
20200622_212103.jpg


Whereas the newer, donor motor's had them:
20200622_212041.jpg


So... Necessary? Good idea, bad idea?
 
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That was my next question! So drill out leaving 1/4 in of original, and thread all the way to that 1/4 point?
I just drilled far enough to get both set screws in. And yes, do tap the entire depth of that drilling.

Going in or coming out?
That's the old one that I thought I'd NEVER get the time to swap out!
 
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And the rockers might need work:
View attachment 2357263

Anybody familiar with tackling those?
I'm surprised you didn't have those all cleaned up and installed and adjusted before you installed it in the truck.

I'm not specifically familiar with the 3FE, but my Studebaker that has the overhead rockers and solid lifters, I would use a fine grinding wheel on a stationary grinder and just touch the tips of those to clean them up and remove the ridges caused by the wear from the old valve placement. I would try to position it so I kept it square side to side. They are supposed to be rounded front to back. The adjuster screw on the back will make up for how much you take off.

I would also disassemble and clean up each piece of that whole rocker assembly Take it apart and lay it out on cardboard IN ORDER and clean ONE piece at a time, then lay it back in position when clean.

I adjust all my valves on the stand while cold to the "cold spec". Not sure if Mr. T has that here. Use a feeler gauge between each one. Start with cylinder #1, then 5, etc through the firing order when each cylinder is on TDC of the compression stroke. Can start with #1, then go by degrees. You can do both intake and exhaust on the same cylinder at the same time.

#1
Rotate 120 degrees
#5
Rotate 120 degrees
#3
Rotate 120 degrees
#6
Rotate 120 degrees
#2
Rotate 120 degrees
#4
 
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I'm surprised you didn't have those all cleaned up and installed and adjusted before you installed it in the truck.

I'm not specifically familiar with the 3FE, but my Studebaker that has the overhead rockers and solid lifters, I would use a fine grinding wheel on a stationary grinder and just touch the tips of those to clean them up and remove the ridges caused by the wear from the old valve placement. I would try to position it so I kept it square side to side. They are supposed to be rounded front to back. The adjuster screw on the back will make up for how much you take off.

I would also disassemble and clean up each piece of that whole rocker assembly Take it apart and lay it out on cardboard IN ORDER and clean ONE piece at a time, then lay it back in position when clean.

I adjust all my valves on the stand while cold to the "cold spec". Not sure if Mr. T has that here. Use a feeler gauge between each one. Start with cylinder #1, then 5, etc through the firing order when each cylinder is on TDC of the compression stroke. Can start with #1, then go by degrees. You can do both intake and exhaust on the same cylinder at the same time.

#1
Rotate 120 degrees
#5
Rotate 120 degrees
#3
Rotate 120 degrees
#6
Rotate 120 degrees
#2
Rotate 120 degrees
#4
Yeah, in hindsight I really should have.
This video made it look straightforward, as long as you have the right setup:
Delta cams said they'd do them for $4 each, which seems reasonable.

I've got one in chem-dip, I'll see how it comes out.
 
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Oh, and thanks for the run-down on the on-stand/cold adjustment. This is my first pushrod motor, and while it's indeed simple, it does have details I've not before had to consider.
I knew since I had a weekend without kids I could at least get the motor into the truck, and left a few things for after I'd got that crossed off the list. Cleaning the injectors, reassembling the intake manifold, and cleaning up/installing/tuning the valvetrain... That's about what's left, aside from the obvious hoses, accessories, belts, etc., incidental to motor removal/replacement.

I cannot wait to drive this thing!
 
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This was super helpful:
Here is a good source to see how the belts are routed on land cruisers
The relevant image from which resolves to:


That said, I have one wrong belt from trusting oreilly's.

The Gates Green stripe TR22525 they list is NOT the right belt for a stock A/C application.
The TR22401 _is_ the correct length for water pump/alt/crank (second row of the crank pulley).
The TR22657 _is_ the correct length for the PS/smog/alt/crank (frontmost row of the crank pulley).
The Gates XL Vbelt 9463 does look to be the correct length (1179mm vs the 1180 stock) for AC use.

I'll have it tomorrow, and will let you all know how it goes.

EDIT: Looks like someone else had luck with the 9463:
Don't assume the parts guy/gal will give you the correct belt. I had to go back twice to O'Reillys
Here are the Gates V-belts that worked on my 62:

Power Steering - Gates TR22657
Water Pump - Gates TR22401
AC - Gates 9463
 
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Jan 19, 2005
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1,284
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South west utah
 
 
 
This was super helpful:


The relevant image from which resolves to:


That said, I have one wrong belt from trusting oreilly's.

The Gates Green stripe TR22525 they list is NOT the right belt for a stock A/C application.
The TR22401 _is_ the correct length for water pump/alt/crank (second row of the crank pulley).
The TR22657 _is_ the correct length for the PS/smog/alt/crank (frontmost row of the crank pulley).
The Gates XL Vbelt 9463 does look to be the correct length (1179mm vs the 1180 stock) for AC use.

I'll have it tomorrow, and will let you all know how it goes.

EDIT: Looks like someone else had luck with the 9463:
I fought with aftermarket belts on my 91 for way to long. I was always chasing noisy belts until I just decided to order oem belts from cruiser outfitters. I had 70K miles on the last oem set when I changed them again this spring. I only changed them because I was doing a water pump and they still looked very healthy.
 
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Messages
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I fought with aftermarket belts on my 91 for way to long. I was always chasing noisy belts until I just decided to order oem belts from cruiser outfitters. I had 70K miles on the last oem set when I changed them again this spring. I only changed them because I was doing a water pump and they still looked very healthy.
I appreciate the input, man, I might need to do this.
Cruiseroutfitters is only about an hour away, but there's a toyota dealer maybe 20 mins away.
 
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