3FE Head Gasket

[Rush]

I'm going to let @jonheld jump back in on these questions.

I am of the opinion of Toyota wires, but I'm only familiar with the 1FZ-FE and mine spits out aftermarket parts.

I also think you should check your ground on your igniter.

Double check all your ground cables between the engine, body, frame. I think the FZJ has at least 6. Not sure on the FJ.

Good call on the grounds.
I redid the big ground cable, with dielectric grease and a fresh lead terminal. I doubled up the stock wires, because I had two, why not. Same terminal, same bolt on the bracket that attaches it to the mount below the AC compressor. Also connected to that terminal is a ground wire for the body, maybe 6" long.

I will double-check the resistance of the coil/ignitor's ground wire over to the motor (the one with what looks like a resistor/capacitor, right?), and ohm the coil/ignitor as well.

The ground cables going from body to the head are kinda iffy, (really stiff/brittle) but the exposed copper is at least not green.
I'll ohm those as well.

It's a new Toyota cap and rotor, and oring.
The gap was above the .008 the FSM specified as a minimum. The dist itself ohmed within spec on Sunday. 240 if I recall correctly.

The plugs are Toyota. New.

 

[BILT4ME]

Good call on the grounds.
I redid the big ground cable, with dielectric grease and a fresh lead terminal. I doubled up the stock wires, because I had two, why not. Same terminal, same bolt on the bracket that attaches it to the mount below the AC compressor. Also connected to that terminal is a ground wire for the body, maybe 6" long.

I will double-check the resistance of the coil/ignitor's ground wire over to the motor (the one with what looks like a resistor/capacitor, right?), and ohm the coil/ignitor as well.

The ground cables going from body to the head are kinda iffy, (really stiff/brittle) but the exposed copper is at least not green.
I'll ohm those as well.

It's a new Toyota cap and rotor, and oring.
The gap was above the .008 the FSM specified as a minimum. The dist itself ohmed within spec on Sunday. 240 if I recall correctly.

The plugs are Toyota. New.

Did you put on the dielectric grease on the ground wires AFTER they were tight and seated. Dielectric grease stops electricity from flowing if there is any between the cable end and what it's attached to.

 

[Rush]

Did you put on the dielectric grease on the ground wires AFTER they were tight and seated. Dielectric grease stops electricity from flowing if there is any between the cable end and what it's attached to.

Oh, it definitely got in between the copper and the lead. I'll clean it up, thanks!

 

[jonheld]

I'm going to let @jonheld jump back in on these questions.

Nice. Put me on the spot

 

[jonheld]

With the jumper in place in the diagnostic connector, the ECU no longer adjusts timing. It will be set to whatever the mechanical adjustment of the distributor is set to.
I would also be more inclined to think that your timing light has an issue and is picking up the crosstalk and that the plugs are firing correctly. You can put a plug in a wire to verify.
Spark is initiated in the pick up coils of the distributor. Those pulses are fed to the ECU and adjusted for timing. That is fed to the igniter which in turn feeds the primary of the ignition coil.
Certainly check the grounds as suggested. The coil/igniter is grounded through the bracket mounted on the right fender.

 

[Rush]

Well, the relevant grounds are good. The meter beeped when testing the bolt/wire on (and) the coil mount bracket - distributor cap screws circuit. Also, to the head.

Secondary coil resistance is in spec, 12.58 kohms:

But the primary resistance did not come out within spec:

There was a little dialectic grease on the coil's two-pronged connector when I pulled it off, so I'll swab them both with rubbing alcohol and retest.
But the coil fails testing, at .9/1 ohm.

The big ground cable gave me a beep to the body and motor while stabbing the negative post, so while I will clean off the battery post grease I don't see it as the primary point of failure.

That said, the battery case presents a substantial voltage reading -which I hear can be problematic:

I'm sure I could clean the battery's case, but since it's of '14 vintage I'll just replace it.

Just to be certain: Could the coil ohming bad completely explain the failure to start, or is there likely something else as well?

 

[BILT4ME]

Well, the relevant grounds are good. The meter beeped when testing the bolt/wire on (and) the coil mount bracket - distributor cap screws circuit. Also, to the head.

Secondary coil resistance is in spec, 12.58 kohms:
View attachment 2374707

But the primary resistance did not come out within spec:
View attachment 2374708
There was a little dialectic grease on the coil's two-pronged connector when I pulled it off, so I'll swab them both with rubbing alcohol and retest.
But the coil fails testing, at .9/1 ohm.

The big ground cable gave me a beep to the body and motor while stabbing the negative post, so while I will clean off the battery post grease I don't see it as the primary point of failure.

That said, the battery case presents a substantial voltage reading -which I hear can be problematic:
View attachment 2374723
I'm sure I could clean the battery's case, but since it's of '14 vintage I'll just replace it.

Just to be certain: Could the coil ohming bad completely explain the failure to start, or is there likely something else as well?

Yes, the coil ohming could be the culprit.

WTF on the battery case causing a voltage? Are you sure your didn't press "hold" on your last reading, then took a picture? I have the exact same meter and I couldn't figure out why it kept giving me bizarre readings. Turns out I pressed the button marked "hold".

Wash off the top of the battery with soap and water to get rid of all the crud on top. That will actually be good for it.

 

[jonheld]

But the primary resistance did not come out within spec:

Consumer grade meters will often have trouble measuring small resistance values.
You should be able to zero out the meter leads by touching them together and reading the meter. That value should be subtracted from the resistance reading you get across the coil primary.

 

[Rush]

Yes, the coil ohming could be the culprit.

WTF on the battery case causing a voltage? Are you sure your didn't press "hold" on your last reading, then took a picture? I have the exact same meter and I couldn't figure out why it kept giving me bizarre readings. Turns out I pressed the button marked "hold".

Haha, I'm certain I didn't hit the "hold" button. The voltage got lower the closer I moved the red probe to the negative terminal.
It happens when batteries get coated with dust/dirt that can conduct.
It would appear there are enough minerals in Utah dirt/dust to allow an amount of electrons to flow.

Wash off the top of the battery with soap and water to get rid of all the crud on top. That will actually be good for it.

I could, but 1. I'm afraid of getting simple green/soap/anything into the distilled water and 2. again, it's a '14 battery and needs replacing.

I think I will clean it off and retest, just because you've been my #1 supporter in this thread

 

[Rush]

Consumer grade meters will often have trouble measuring small resistance values.
You should be able to zero out the meter leads by touching them together and reading the meter. That value should be subtracted from the resistance reading you get across the coil primary.

So I'm actually close to within spec, then:

You are a wealth of knowledge, @jonheld.
I'll call the coil good, then, unless .5 is too high. I see .51 as the upper limit... Thoughts?

If it's good...Wires, then? I'll double check the pickup coil gap just to clear the dist off any wrongdoing.

 

[ppc]

When was the last time you replaced the battery inside your multi-meter? A weak battery will impact resistance readings.

 

[Rush]

When was the last time you replaced the battery inside your multi-meter? A weak battery will impact resistance readings.

Saturday, just in case.

 

[jonheld]

So I'm actually close to within spec, then:
I'll call the coil good, then, unless .5 is too high. I see .51 as the upper limit... Thoughts?

Coils can open (infinite resistance) or the windings can short (lower resistance). It is extremely unlikely that there would be a slightly higher resistance.
I would call that good.

 

[Rush]

Coils can open (infinite resistance) or the windings can short (lower resistance). It is extremely unlikely that there would be a slightly higher resistance.
I would call that good.

Excellent, thank you!

 

[jonheld]

You are a wealth of knowledge, @jonheld.

Well I'm certainly full of something...

 

[Rush]

I just found out the timing light's wire clip is directional. Like, the electricity needs to flow through it in a certain direction in order for the test to be meaningful.

Will test and confirm sparks/timing.

 

[Rush]

Replaced the battery and cleaned off the dielectric grease with 91% isopropyl.

Spark is good. Still multiple flashes from the light on 5 and 6, but the wires are close together so I'll leave it be for the moment.

I sprayed a little intake cleaner in the intake and cranked, and it picked up until it ran out off fuel.

Off to rent the fuel pressure tester.

 

[Rush]

First fuel pressure tester adapter sheared off while threading into fuel rail.
Have new test kit now, 58 PSI while cranking/key on with Fp jumped.
Dropped to 38 PSI within about 10 mins, it's at 20 PSI now, ~14.5 hours later.

Curious, though... The gauge reads 14 PSI sitting disconnected, like it's an absolute measure of pressure, not relative. Should this be that way?

I doubt that's supposed to be the case, I'll call and see if the other fuel pressure test kit reads 14 disconnected.

Either way, the FPR did flow more (less PSI on the gauge) once I applied vacuum to its hose.

Depending on the gauge's health it's either perfectly in spec, or 14PSI above, which implicates the FPR. Good thing I have another old and potentially broken one to swap in in case.

I'll report once I know.

 

[BILT4ME]

First fuel pressure tester adapter sheared off while threading into fuel rail.
Have new test kit now, 58 PSI while cranking/key on with Fp jumped.
Dropped to 38 PSI within about 10 mins, it's at 20 PSI now, ~14.5 hours later.

Curious, though... The gauge reads 14 PSI sitting disconnected, like it's an absolute measure of pressure, not relative. Should this be that way?

I doubt that's supposed to be the case, I'll call and see if the other fuel pressure test kit reads 14 disconnected.

Either way, the FPR did flow more (less PSI on the gauge) once I applied vacuum to its hose.

Depending on the gauge's health it's either perfectly in spec, or 14PSI above, which implicates the FPR. Good thing I have another old and potentially broken one to swap in in case.

I'll report once I know.

Did you clean out the vacuum port on the manifold where the hose attaches? I recently found a number of my ports are plugged because I need to clean my intake.

 

[Rush]

Did you clean out the vacuum port on the manifold where the hose attaches? I recently found a number of my ports are plugged because I need to clean my intake.

Haven't done THIS line, but I will.
I did check them, and the ones that were obviously blocked got "wallered" out with some mechanic's wire and intake cleaner.