3FE Head from O'Reilly Auto Parts?

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I have a spare 3FE head that I just brought into a local machine shop to be cleaned and evaluated, and was told that it needs pretty much everything replaced, including rotators and valves. It is a good head though, no cracks and minimal warpage.

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They said it would cost around $900 to get it back to spec, so I decided to hold off for now. When I was looking up parts for the head, I accidentally stumbled across a rebuilt 3FE head from O'Reilly Auto Parts, and found out it only costs $419 including shipping. There is a $100 core charge as well. Is there any reason to not buy the head from O'Reilly's? It's about half of what I was planning on paying, and the machine shop wouldn't be using OEM parts anyways. There's also a 12 month warranty, which is better than what my machine shop was offering. Any input would be greatly appreciated. TIA

Link to the O'Reilly head: PowerTorque 2846 - Cylinder Head | O'Reilly Auto Parts
 
I would be very interested in this. I know it's a sin not to use original equipment. But at this point we are talking about 25 year old rigs. Keeping them on the road for another of couple years can get expensive. So it may not last 25 years like the original. But will it last 5? . I love my 92. But sometimes I have to ask myself "why" keep throwing money at it.
 
I'll go order it tomorrow and check it out. My machine shop said they can't even find the OEM parts anyways, and pretty much all of the rotators I have are all in pieces and need replaced. The exhaust valves also look like they're around 35 dollars each new, and those are aftermarket, not even OEM. I don't see any other option besides aftermarket and used, and 25 years after the engine was made, used doesn't seem like a very good idea.
 
3F-E head is long discontinued.

@cruiserdan sold the last one in maybe 2011 or so. I remember. I packed it up and shipped it. I have the Toyoda Industries pick tag for it: 11101-61080 was the part number back then.

Exhaust and intake valves are still available new from Toyota.
 
Need a new shop that understands, has experience with F motors. There are several close to you in; Location: United States of America.:doh:

Search on the FJ40 and FJ60 forums, they are commonly built for far less than you are being quoted. One trick is to use SB chevy valves and springs, common, cheap, fit well. The guides are often worn, so with new Toyota valves, they need to be replaced, the chevy stems are slightly larger, so a quick ream and good as new, etc. Knowing the tricks, it can be done economically. The good part is it's not cracked, it is all too common on those heads.

Be sure they check/replace the oil passage plug. They are known blow out, especially after head work, at minimum makes a big mess, if not caught quickly, motors have been blown. Even if you get a referb, confirm that it has a threaded plug, if not do it before installing.
 
What did you end up doing with your head? I recently blew my head gasket due to an overheat and I haven't ripped anything apart to get it checked out. But I was looking at shaving the own head to gain a bit of power. But if it's cracked I will be on the hunt for a new head. If the remanufactured one from orilleys is worth it then I will go that route otherwise I would habe to find one used. Also for geese whiz when I'm pulling the head should I habe two people while lifting the head off the motor to prevent damage?
 
What did you end up doing with your head? I recently blew my head gasket due to an overheat and I haven't ripped anything apart to get it checked out. But I was looking at shaving the own head to gain a bit of power. But if it's cracked I will be on the hunt for a new head. If the remanufactured one from orilleys is worth it then I will go that route otherwise I would habe to find one used. Also for geese whiz when I'm pulling the head should I habe two people while lifting the head off the motor to prevent damage?

I ended up having a spare 3FE head completely rebuilt, which included all new valves, seats, rocker springs, rocker arm and shaft overhaul, etc. Ended up costing over $1k.
If it's available, the O'Reilly head is a GREAT deal. I was told they were back ordered for months, so I didn't end up going that route.
I would highly suggest following the FSM word for word, it has great instructions on how to label and organize everything while you're pulling the head. Don't mix up pushrods!! Organize bolts taken off, and my personal tip is to screw them back into the hole they came out of when you can. Helps keep clutter down and lower the possibility of screwing up. (Pun intended)
Definitely have 2 people around to lift the head off, or use an engine hoist. There are a couple head alignment dowels, so be sure to lift straight up to get the holes away, and then bring it forward. Keep in mind that the block may be warped or cracked as well, so check it with a machinist's straight edge and keep dust and debris out of cylinders. Also, don't forget assembly lube.
Depending on where you live and what gas is available, I would go with an 8.5 or 9 to 1 compression ration, possibly higher if you're blessed with 93 or higher pump gas. If you're planning on overlanding or going on road trips, keep in mind gas south of the border SUCKS.
 
I planned on doing the oil plug. Anyone know what I can shave off the head? I was going to bring the head into a shop and have them rebuilt it from scratch if it's not cracked. I want to liven this motor up a bit. I got into elevation with a full vehicle and I was going uphill and lost all speed and couldn't go any faster than 20mph.... I can't deal with that again.
 
I planned on doing the oil plug. Anyone know what I can shave off the head? I was going to bring the head into a shop and have them rebuilt it from scratch if it's not cracked. I want to liven this motor up a bit. I got into elevation with a full vehicle and I was going uphill and lost all speed and couldn't go any faster than 20mph.... I can't deal with that again.

There's several threads on here about shaving a 3FE head, I can't remember exact numbers, but it's quite a bit. Look into the oversized Chevy valves, it will be less expensive and let the engine breathe better. I went with the Manafre RV cam kit, and so far, it's incredible. Sounds great, and makes more power without sacrificing longevity. Also, freshen up the fuel system. New FP damper, regulator, and lines wouldn't hurt, upgraded injectors wouldn't be a bad idea either. At the mininum, clean the fuel rail and injectors, and get new injector O rings. I've heard there's an OEM 3FE head gasket floating around stateside, if you can find it, snag it. Don't cheap out on gaskets like I did, for some things it's fine, but for things like oil pan gaskets, water pump, etc. OEM is definitely worth it.
 
... I was going uphill and lost all speed and couldn't go any faster than 20mph.... I can't deal with that again.

:cautious:
I thought that was why folks bought 3FE rigs, forces you to go slow, enjoy the scenery, a more enlightened lifestyle. You wouldn't want to be caught tearing up the mountains, like some hooligan two hundy owner would you?:eek::doh:
 
When I can't get over 20mph up a hill at 5k feet.... That's not ok. I literally almost 0ut it up for sale that day.
 
I would love to have a manual. Know what I need to convert It? Since I'm ripping it all down I'm doing all kinds of work to it. Oh and it's always full throttle lol
 
I would love to have a manual. Know what I need to convert It? Since I'm ripping it all down I'm doing all kinds of work to it. Oh and it's always full throttle lol
I sold a 3F bellhousing a few months back, from what I understand you'll need one of those, flywheel, clutch and plate, fork, pedal, cylinder, etc. Should bolt on with little problem.
 
I might as well play the lottery lol
 

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