3FE EGR bypass part numbers (for a clean look)

[roostabunny]

Old thread, I know, but if anyone's still watching it...

This seems like a cheap and simple way to go, why do so many get the block-off plates? Do the plates just provide easy reversibility for places with actual regulations?

 

[Morgan Evans]

Yup. I just found this thread and am bummed I ordered my block off plate yesterday. I am going to return it and buy this setup. Only draw back I see is removing the freeze plug to reinstall the EGR system. It's little more of a permanent fix.

 

[roostabunny]

Yup. I just found this thread and am bummed I ordered my block off plate yesterday. I am going to return it and buy this setup. Only draw back I see is removing the freeze plug to reinstall the EGR system. It's little more of a permanent fix.

You removing the smog pump, too? The other thing I'm working on is the plugs, I think for the air injection. Seems a lot of people go with brass 1/4" NPT, but that seems a bit sketchy to me. Certainly it's not a 1/4" NPT thread on the manifold? I've heard people talk about M14 plugs, which makes sense given the dims in the image below, but curious if anyone has experience...

 

[Morgan Evans]

I'm going to keep the smog pump for the mean time. Down the road I imagine having a stock and intact emissions system could be valuable for resale (who knows?). I have my truck registered as an antique right now to avoid emissions. My EGR diaphragm had a crack in it that was causing a rough idle while warm, otherwise I would have liked to keep it intact. I was considering cutting off the pipe that goes in the intake, welding something in to block it off, then blocking the exhaust port in a similar fashion to keep a completely "stock" look but bypassing the EGR system fully. I'm really hesitant about doing anything to my 62 that changes it permanently. Definitely all metric of course... I imagine 14x1.5 would be the right size?

 

[Morgan Evans]

Amazon sent the wrong Dorman 555-118 freeze plug, although it was listed as the correct part. They sent me 555-114...and I decided to make it work (sanding/grinding it down) because of the hard time finding the correct freeze plug. I used a Bell Metric stainless 26x1.5 #800.544.1624 plug with a hex head because I'm fairly certain that allen head style plug would strip easily after corroding onto the manifold. Checked for leaks with starting fluid, all good to go!

 

[Dunbar]

The one @Godwin sourced at Amazon is at NAPA under a different number:

Oil Drain Plug Standard M26-1.50, Head Size 14Mm Part # NOE 7041916
View attachment 2728421

 

[Will Van]

I have read it's 1/4" NPT, and you can use 4 plugs. Haven't done it myself.

I didn't use the 1/4" NPT plugs because I thought that was janky. (The truck is japanese donut wouldnuse metric...) I used recessed hex head plugs.

@john schneitman message me you email address and I can send you my write up I did.

What threads on the hex plugs?

You removing the smog pump, too? The other thing I'm working on is the plugs, I think for the air injection. Seems a lot of people go with brass 1/4" NPT, but that seems a bit sketchy to me. Certainly it's not a 1/4" NPT thread on the manifold? I've heard people talk about M14 plugs, which makes sense given the dims in the image below, but curious if anyone has experience...

View attachment 1948936

Reviving this for the air injection plugs.

I realize most people just use 1/4” NPT plugs. But what is the actual thread size and pitch for the air injection plug? Toyota never used NPT on anything.

So are they 1/4” BSPT? That would make more sense because a lot of other ports on Toyota engines are BSPT.

(Yes, I know the Toyota PN for the plugs is 90340-14001).

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Reviving this for the air injection plugs.

I realize most people just use 1/4” NPT plugs. But what is the actual thread size and pitch for the air injection plug? Toyota never used NPT on anything.

So are they 1/4” BSPT? That would make more sense because a lot of other ports on Toyota engines are BSPT.

(Yes, I know the Toyota PN for the plugs is 90340-14001).

this is my personal BUILD Thread for GHOST 5/89 3FE

i set out before the holidays to do the text book FSM step by step de-smog and source my ALL own parts , and use only TOYOTA Genuine Parts Made in Japan spec. no matter where they could be had ....


easier said then done .......fact


however , i did just that eventually


below id the MUD link to GHOST build thread , she is now dedicated long term use Shop-Roadrunner ,

not some lame bring a FJ trailer topic

the goal was not to create a kit for my store untill deep into the desmog i realized not only are there few vendors even offer a compleys kit the only 2 i found after googling had , both have only aftermarket parts , some in SAE too ?

well that sparked my overactive pipe dreams imagination then and there .....


i will very soon as in 1-3 weeks have just that offered via the online store

al parts in bulk qtys are ordered up and in procees of shipment and or in hand all ready too


study the entire broad brush de-smog topic please on GHOST , it will make the WHY factor abundantly klear as well

this choice or part 100 % toyota oem parts = Factory Fit Form and seamless perfection level status A+ end product results function too ...


i experienced ZERO issues on the toyota oem parts at the end of the day , and GHOST runs way smoother and way cleaner out the tail pipe notable after inital cold engine warm up to normal operation temperature too

both topic were issues constant before base idle wandering randomly

and POISON exhaust fumes out the tail pipe 24/7 as well


both of these are deal breakers for me personally and in shop road runner mode too , nobody wants to experiience both at the same time let alone one at that


last thought / words of wisdom here ; doing the de-smog my way at end of the day u will see below mud link , i was taken back a bit on how the base idle Ignition Timing was no OFF post de-smog ? understanding this now completely , you never forget this step by step FSM procedure , it too a oh no panic mode i initally had because i thought for sure i messed up the the 3FE des-mog process that f'ing bad ?

this my first ever Rodeo on a 3FE de-smog topic and the first ever one owning a 3FE personally ever too .....

ignition timing then set to fsm specs , was NOT the 100% problem solved here too , it was close but about 4ish solid degrees advanced still with my TE-E1 check connector jumped CEL yellow icon cluster meter flashing steady eddy per the FSM


you will need and want as Good and verified accurate analoge ONLY Full Sweep Vacuum gauge to do the needed tweak to achive the best possible highest inches of mercury / Hg number possible , i was able to push it after a few dizzy lockdown bolt attempts that change the timing one way or anothe to loose the highest vacuum # i just had within reach ....

so that is a series of tweaked finite either direction pre lock down bolt to compensate for the timing and high vacuumed spec #

final # vacuum gauge in my hand post dizzy bolt final set dome = a mico-meter shy of 19 Hg ....


this step by step achieved pure 3FE bliss at base idle and lowest tail pipe emissions from me personal and professional view pints humanly possible as i understand things here to be


thanks for letting me share

matt


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

.
oh side note : my MUD group involvement / non-profit style TLCA inspired pet-side project to create the OEM inspired 3F-E Engine Badge for the valve cover location TOYOTA ditched us on and long forgot they ever did just that in-fact effort , is nearly complete !

if anyone 3FE / 3-FE mud community here has any input and or constructive positive feed back , go to the 3FE check-in tech here at top of the 80 series tech forum , or feel free to PM me , the is at the end of day the perhaps the the most i get it right / we get it right the first time professional mechanical works of art i have now concluded after first diving into this topic over a year + ago ...for all the right reasons too some are way over my head in fact ?

FJ62 FJ80 all globally ever made all years of a 3FE motor use in a TOYOTA branded " product " actually go past 1992 a bit too ,

matt

Builds - 10/88 FJ62LG-PNEK my girl the " Ghost "

10/88 FJ62LG-PNEK Build Thread This is the official BUILD Thread of : " Cement Ghost " - the Rising Sun Mechanical SKUNK-WORKS new Shop & Parts Road Runner ... - i acquired her today from a fellow TLCA Member and Friend .... :) - she was nicely painted OEM TOYOTA paint Code 1H5...

forum.ih8mud.com

.

.

​

 

[ayayron572]

After reading through this thread I wasn’t able to see what you do with vacuum lines. Well aside from using bb’s? I’m assuming putting them in to plug them?

 

[Will Van]

I capped them with 1/8” vacuum caps.

 

[ayayron572]

I capped them with 1/8” vacuum caps.

Thank you. I see this now in the photos. Also by actually looking where everything was going