I decided to do a desmog on my 1991 3FE, but I didn't like the available options for an EGR delete. I wanted to keep the EGR delete as clean, factory-looking, and low profile as possible. Most people use an EGR block off plate or BB's in the vacuum lines for the manifold side of the valve and a two-piece brass option for the exhaust side. I wanted the whole mess out of there and didn't like how DIY the brass option looked. I did some looking around and finally came across this option. I figured I would share part numbers as I couldn't find these anywhere else when I was doing my research. The expansion plug is a press fit. I used some high temp. thread sealant on it and tapped it into place with a socket as a drift. The drain plug I used is an exact fit thread-pitch wise and comes with a nice copper crush washer. The expansion plug is a Dorman # 555-118. The drain plug is a Dorman # 090-099. Thanks for looking. I hope this helps someone else. I have extras of both of these if anyone wants some. Just PM me.
3FE EGR bypass part numbers (for a clean look)
- Thread starter Izeloz
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Very nice! The 2 piece brass plug in the exhaust manifold have worked themselves loose on mine after 2 years. I will be sourcing one of these plugs. Thanks for doing the legwork.
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- Thread starter
- #4
Not according to anything I turned up in my research. Everything seems to indicate it will run smoother and potentially have more power and maybe more MPG's. MPG's don't concern me (I drive a Cruiser, after all) but running smoother and the tiny bump in power are attractive, not to mention keeping the intake a whole heck of a lot cleaner. The EGR delete plus a catch system for the PCV means the intake stays squeaky clean.
thanks for posting, I just ordered the drain plug as well I have been fighting those pipe plugs for a few months and this will really help out!
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Good looking solutions, will be using the drain plug on my exhaust pipe when I have my exhaust done.
Did you remove the whole manifold? How has your truck been running since doing the EGR delete?
- Thread starter
- #8
I removed the entire manifold, but that wasn't necessary to do this. I was (am) in the middle of a lengthy refresh of my cruiser. Sadly, that means I haven't had the opportunity to see how it runs post-smog removal. I am optimistic based on other peoples' experiences, though.
I completed mine today. Runs like a top. It is noticeably smoother and feels like I have more low end torque. Seat of the pants feel tells me it was worth the time.
Plus there is so much more room! Now I can do the second battery mod the clean way with a 93-97 battery tray.
You'll notice I don't have a plug in my exhaust manifold. I didn't want to use the brass NPT 3/4" plug that others have used. I tried like hell to find the Dorman plug but nobody had it in stock. So I'll order one from Napa or somewhere tomorrow. In the meantime I put an expandable freeze plug in. WHOOPS! It had a rubber expansion. Took my 80 for the first drive and stopped it to see smoke coming from under the hood. Ha! Pulled that plug and she sits until I get the correct plug.
Plus there is so much more room! Now I can do the second battery mod the clean way with a 93-97 battery tray.
You'll notice I don't have a plug in my exhaust manifold. I didn't want to use the brass NPT 3/4" plug that others have used. I tried like hell to find the Dorman plug but nobody had it in stock. So I'll order one from Napa or somewhere tomorrow. In the meantime I put an expandable freeze plug in. WHOOPS! It had a rubber expansion. Took my 80 for the first drive and stopped it to see smoke coming from under the hood. Ha! Pulled that plug and she sits until I get the correct plug.
Sub'D for install
This looks like the cleanest solution by far! I'm just having a heck of a time finding these parts locally. Does anyone know of a corner store auto parts place that has these? I don't want to pay $30 and wait 3 weeks to get them.
In the mean time cut the flex pipe that comes off the exhaust manifold. Slide the flex pipe out of the nut hat bolts on to the manifold. Take a piece of sheet metal and cut it to fit inside the nut to fill the hole. Squirt some FIPG in to create a gasket between the nut and metal blank filling the hole. Tighten it down and go. I ran that way for a couple of months until I got my plug. I just checked it periodically to make sure it was fine. And it was.
Good ideas, and thanks for pointing out that part! I still need to come up with a 53/64" plug...
It's to plug where the valve goes into the intake manifold.
Up top on the intake. It looks like you may have used one of the block plate kits available here, but I'm wanting to do like the OP of this thread and tap a plug into the hole. A little cleaner.
Op, that's awesome, curious as to what you're doing about the cel?