Anyone run 35" mud tires without a lot of suspension changes?
Do most run 33's?

Do most run 33's?

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Anyone run 35" mud tires without a lot of suspension changes?
Do most run 33's?
![]()
Upsizing to 35's is an easy and inexpensive mod. I see no reason for needing 4.88 gears. They'd a be nice addition though far from necessary unless you use your 100 for another application (like towing) in which case you'll not want 35's any how.
Changes needed to be made are here. Go to post number 8 and 9.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/az-arizona...tion-differences-evaluations-john-shotts.html
John, just qualify what 35's you are talking about. Remember you run BFG AT's in 315 that is not close to a true 35" tire but closer to a 34" tire measured. There are some 35" tires out there that are true 35" measured. This will play a big role in tire fitment and power loss due to incorrect gearing.
BFGoodrich Tires | All-Terrain T/A® KO | Tire Sizes & Specs
315's are 34.6 (far the most popular selected size on the 80 and 100-series)
A 35x12.50 is 34.7
One tenth will not be humanly noticable in the power arena.
NEEDING 4.88 gears is a personal choice in my opinion. I have run 35's for 80K miles and am satisfied with the power despite my really heavy rig. Uphill I can run with stock Escalades and other SUV's. That's enough leftover power for ME. For others? Maybe not.
With any mod, one must prioritize. If the person wants to wheel very difficult trails then the 35-incher is a must while 4.88's are not (on the 100). Will 4.88's help? Sure....but it may not be worth the expense to the builder. (OR it may. They can figure that out next.)
Making a statement that in order to run 35's on a 100 you must regear to 4.88 is misleading and in my case (and other cases) untrue. Just as misleading to state one does not need 4.88's. If I would have taken your suggestion I would be most unhappy with my outcome. Better to define the reasons why, 4.88's in this situation, might be valuable or not to the prospective questioner so that full consideration can be made based upon all the facts...not a filtering of the facts
Now, if this reader wants the wider 35x12.50 tires they might want to check with somebody else about fitment as I've not ran these.
A true mouthfull to chew up and think about. I had actually thought about the re-gearing already to the 4.88 gears.... Gears, and ARBs would be first. Second would be lift and tires. Can I get mud tires for my 18" wheels, or am I gonna have to ditch those and add the further expense of buying a new set of 16's?
Thanks for all the feedback. Great info!
In the case of the Toyo MT in 35's, the 35/12.50-18 is actually $70 more per tire than the 315/75-16. So it would be cost effective to go with 16's and sell the 18's or just keep them as a spare set.Can I get mud tires for my 18" wheels, or am I gonna have to ditch those and add the further expense of buying a new set of 16's?
Those 285/75-18's must be a new size. They sound good to me.Which mud tires are you considering? FYI: The Toyo Open Country M/T is available in 18" (LT285/75/R18 or 35x12.50R18LT). I think hoser is running one of the OC MT 18" sizes...the 285 sounds interesting to me!
Or to get by in the interim you can crank the OEM t-bars (assuming you do not have a winch installed up front) and swap just the rear springs to gain the clearance for 35".
Just as misleading to state one does not need 4.88's. If I would have taken your suggestion I would be most unhappy with my outcome. Better to define the reasons why, 4.88's in this situation, might be valuable or not to the prospective questioner so that full consideration can be made based upon all the facts...not a filtering of the facts
New springs are not needed yet. In the interim you can adjust front bars for 2.75" lift. Then, you can add 30mm of trim packs atop the rear springs. 20mm is usually the max. For now, you can duct tape 3ea 10mm packs together per side to the stock springs. This will match the front in lift. When you swap suspension you can swap the stock spring w'trim packs for a new taller spring with less trim packs or a new even taller spring without trims.
Hey, i'm a big fan of tape, tape of all kinds, heck, my wife even makes fun of me for fixing everything with tape.. but taping trim packs on the top of a spring.... doesn't seem like a safe way to go.
I could be wrong though
What is unsafe about that?
Whatcha think is not safe about this?
In the case of the Toyo MT in 35's, the 35/12.50-18 is actually $70 more per tire than the 315/75-16. So it would be cost effective to go with 16's and sell the 18's or just keep them as a spare set.
Those 285/75-18's must be a new size. They sound good to me.
LT285/75R18 129P E/10 35.1" diameter 11.6" section width on 8" rim
They are 10lbs lighter per tire and maybe wouldn't require a wheelspacer/adapter for the fronts as they are over an 1" narrower. I would have gotten those if they were available back then.
The fact that the packers can move and be "spit out" when you least expect it. Do you check them regularly? Stacking three packers on one another is more likely to promote sideways movement of the packers, especially the middle one.
Will you roll the truck when this happens, probably not, however I would still not advise people to do that.
Why spend 6 x $12.50 for packers when you can do it right with springs. There are so many spring options of the rear that one should always be able to get the correct one. Also advising on spring packers without knowing how the truck is set up and what accessories are on it just doesn't make sense.
Because he said so...so it must be true.
Have you measured your BFG's on the wheel?
As for gearing, I have never met a person that have regeared after installing larger tires and was not happier with the outcome. Is it technically needed no, but it is the right thing to do.
One person has said the 16's don't fit 2006+ but I have yet to confirm it. I know the rotor size is the same throughout 98-07 with only changes in calipers and pads.LandCruisers4Life: What year LC do you have? If later (2006+??) I don't think you can run the 16" wheels due to the larger brake rotors/calipers? hoser?
LandCruisers4Life: What year LC do you have? If later (2006+??) I don't think you can run the 16" wheels due to the larger brake rotors/calipers? hoser?
The fact that the packers can move and be "spit out" when you least expect it. Do you check them regularly? Stacking three packers on one another is more likely to promote sideways movement of the packers, especially the middle one.
Will you roll the truck when this happens, probably not, however I would still not advise people to do that.
Why spend 6 x $12.50 for packers when you can do it right with springs. There are so many spring options of the rear that one should always be able to get the correct one. Also advising on spring packers without knowing how the truck is set up and what accessories are on it just doesn't make sense.
Have you measured your BFG's on the wheel?
As for gearing, I have never met a person that have regeared after installing larger tires and was not happier with the outcome. Is it technically needed no, but it is the right thing to do.