350000 miles locked fzj80 in fair shape for $4500 would you buy?

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Not sure if this is the right place to post this question but there is a guy who lives near me who has a triple locked 95 with 350,000 miles on it. Doesn’t look like anything has been upgraded and unknown maintenance history. There is no rust at all on undercarriage, everything including ac works. Lockers seemingly engage as you can hear the click on both front and rear but it has never been wheeled. Body is fairly straight although the bumper has a bend in it, missing one rear seat and no carpet in 3rd row. It basically looks stock 1995. Paint is faded. Interior has typical cracked leather 1st and 2nd row. Slight leak of oil Near valve cover. It drives fine, could use new brakes. Steering is a little sloppy. It’s not cherry but not beat either. What bothers me is the mileage. He wants $4500. Even if I could talk him down a bit, is this a buy or a hard pass? I’ve never owned an 80 series but want one bad. Thanks in advance for your words of wisdom.
 
Absolutely!
 
Seems like a very reasonable price given the stated condition. I would not worry so much about the mileage just plan on a possible replacement of the head gasket down the road if you find that it is consuming oil. The bottom end with engines of similar miles still have been in good condition with cross hatching still seen the the cylinder walls. Plan on spending at least $2k addition to base line included front end service, brakes pads rotors, fluid changes etc.

And most important act fast vehicles like that get sold quickly.
 
Not sure if this is the right place to post this question but there is a guy who lives near me who has a triple locked 95 with 350,000 miles on it. Doesn’t look like anything has been upgraded and unknown maintenance history. There is no rust at all on undercarriage, everything including ac works. Lockers seemingly engage as you can hear the click on both front and rear but it has never been wheeled. Body is fairly straight although the bumper has a bend in it, missing one rear seat and no carpet in 3rd row. It basically looks stock 1995. Paint is faded. Interior has typical cracked leather 1st and 2nd row. Slight leak of oil Near valve cover. It drives fine, could use new brakes. Steering is a little sloppy. It’s not cherry but not beat either. What bothers me is the mileage. He wants $4500. Even if I could talk him down a bit, is this a buy or a hard pass? I’ve never owned an 80 series but want one bad. Thanks in advance for your words of wisdom.
Good buy. don't miss out
 
Kaleo, While your waiting till tomorrow to make up your mind whether on not to buy it, the guy that looked at it yesterday will buy it out from underneath you. So stop waiting, BUY IT.
 
I would buy it. And if you don’t buy it, the next guy WILL go pick it up, HA! The locker setup is worth about half his asking price. If things go sideways, you could always part it out and make your money back. Make sure you negotiate and get all of the maintenance history you can get. It helps when you are working on it to see who, how and when it was “repaired”.

Agree with others above. If you are handy and willing to do some wrenching minor/moderate work, you will enjoy it.

All kidding aside, I am local and happy to help check it out if you need an opinion or assistance looking it over. The local LC owners on Mud are a good group and are very helpful and knowledgeable. Been a wonderful experience in this community over the past 4+ years.
 
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FULL SEND! Go buy it
 
are you handly . if not that cruiser is not for you. unless you have some deeeeeeep pockets.

quoting this because it needs to be seen again. Would make a great weekend camp/wheeler if your dad is a tv repairman. if you plan on taking it to a mechanic every time it needs something then it'll end up being a pit.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys. I texted the seller last night. Haven’t heard a reply. Maybe waited too long. We’ll see. Keep you posted. Interesting that no one feels 350 is too many miles. I appreciate all the help.
 
I picked mine up with 310000 miles on it 2 months ago, for 4200, triple locked and pretty much like you describe the one your looking at. It now has 315000 and I am loving every mile, do it you wont regret it. :)
 
I paid more for mine with more problems :)
 
Mine has 270k and I drive it everyday. Like Lowbudgetlc said: Don't buy it unless you can do your own work. That being said it's the best 'money pit' Ive ever owned.
 
Miles don't bother me when buying a cruiser.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys. I texted the seller last night. Haven’t heard a reply. Maybe waited too long. We’ll see. Keep you posted. Interesting that no one feels 350 is too many miles. I appreciate all the help.
Follow up and say you have asking price in cash and can meet ASAP (assuming this is true). Find local cruiser club on here and get to know them and learn.
 
man you guys are crazy. i have a couple of cruisers, both lifted, i would take 7500 each cash for right now. both have WAYYYY less miles but are unlocked.
 
man you guys are crazy. i have a couple of cruisers, both lifted, i would take 7500 each cash for right now. both have WAYYYY less miles but are unlocked.
You, may want to reappraise your vehicles. :)

If that Cruiser is a rust free CA rig that can pass smog, that's a very low price. In general, vehicle mileage is only a suggestion in regards to value on anything body on frame made by Toyota. That goes double for anything in California as this is a large state where NOTHING is close and driving hundreds of freeway miles for anything is a given. Between my Cruiser and DD 4Runner there is 3/4 of a million miles. Neither is giving up the ghost soon, and both drive as if they had 50K on the odometer.

Oh yeah, double on what everyone has said being able to wrench and have the space for it.
 
GA rust free rigs. thats about the going rate around here for a good rig
 
@Kaleo Side note: 95 is a GOOD year for CA smog tests ( im assuming you are in CA since you have Orange County listed in your profile ). It will test as an ODB1 vehicle even though it is ODB2 functionality. 1996 is the year that ODB2 tests are mandatory. ODB2 tests are much harder. Testing as an ODB1 car makes it easier to reset your check engine light for annoying things like P401 errors and still pass your tests. Obviously you still need to pass the emissions part of it.

This is basically the gist of the tests. Someone correct me if I'm wrong or has more to add.

ODB1: Visual inspection, No CEL, emissions test
ODB2: Visual inspection, No CEL, All sensors in ready status ( disconnecting the battery or clearing the codes will put the sensors in not ready) No stored codes, emissions test
 
GA rust free rigs. thats about the going rate around here for a good rig
I also drop a load, and double check my receipt whenever I buy beer or gas in the South. Is that all you want? Are you sure this math is correct? A stadium or airport beer in your area costs the same as a Wal-Mart canned beer in our area.
 

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