350 in ‘73 40 Engine Swap

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40LandCruising

40LandCruising

Anderson
Joined
Jan 9, 2017
Threads
33
Messages
1,353
Location
Mauldin, SC
Well if my mind is correct, I have managed to assemble all the things I need to complete my engine swap in the 40 besides common nuts and bolts from ace hardware.

I go to Clemson August 13th and my goal is to just have the drivetrain sitting in the truck before then. I know it’s a lofty goal but I think I have gotten it figured out.

The purpose of this thread is to just think out the swap and anyone can give their input.

These are the steps I plan to follow:
1.replace T/Case input seal and output bearing
2. Mate the 3-speed T-Case and 4-speed transmission (Includes PTO spacer and input gear swap)
3. Install oil pan gasket on 350, and install new fuel pump, and new water pump
4. Take 350 off engine stand and put it on tire/hang it from hoist
5. Install flywheel and clutch
6. Install bellhousing
7. Attach T/Case and Tranny to Bellhousing
8. Using measurements from the Downey 350 swap book, mark and weld in front motor mounts
9. Use assembled drivetrain to mark position of T/Case Mount
10. Weld in T/Case Mount
11. Install assembled drivetrain

The next steps are only if I have time
12. Install the overly large starter
13. Make radiator mounts and get it installed with correct radiator hoses
14. Test fit driveshafts
 
I would put a rear main seal in that three fiddy before you bolt up the trans if you haven't already. They do tend to leak and now's the time to address it.
 
Just a thought..........

Your numbers 8,9,10

Working off of measurements is fine, right up until it isn't. If you reach that point and you somehow made a mistake and it is all welded in, your day is going to suck, in a big way.

I assemble the complete drive train and hang it in the frame, support the T-case and make sure everything works as planned. I then position the motor mounts and weld them in while attached to the motor, same with the T-case isolator. This assures that you are in the right place, the first time. Once mostly welded in I pull the drive train, finish what welding is left (working in small sections so things do not move) clean it up and paint. Then put the drive train back in.

Sure, it is an extra step, but well worth it in the end.
 
What he said.....^^^^^^^

Two additional things that popped into my pea-brain:
1. Address Pilot Bushing before mating driveline together (if not done already)
2. If you have three and 4 speed cases, consider swapping lower low-range gearing into newer style case. (stronger case)
 
NCFJ said:
Just a thought..........

Your numbers 8,9,10

Working off of measurements is fine, right up until it isn't. If you reach that point and you somehow made a mistake and it is all welded in, your day is going to suck, in a big way.

I assemble the complete drive train and hang it in the frame, support the T-case and make sure everything works as planned. I then position the motor mounts and weld them in while attached to the motor, same with the T-case isolator. This assures that you are in the right place, the first time. Once mostly welded in I pull the drive train, finish what welding is left (working in small sections so things do not move) clean it up and paint. Then put the drive train back in.

Sure, it is an extra step, but well worth it in the end.
Click to expand...
I see what you are saying, the only measurement I was going to use was the one to locate how far forward to mount the engine, and then once that was in place see where the tcase mount fell. But I should definitely see where that will fall prior to welding anything
 
Cirbo said:
What he said.....^^^^^^^

Two additional things that popped into my pea-brain:
1. Address Pilot Bushing before mating driveline together (if not done already)
2. If you have three and 4 speed cases, consider swapping lower low-range gearing into newer style case. (stronger case)
Click to expand...
What exactly do you mean by pilot bushing? I have heard them used to referred to a few things.
And I only have a 3-speed case that I am mating to a 4-speed transmission. If it ever breaks down the line hopefully that means upgrade...Orion??? Haha
 
onemanarmy said:
fuel injection?
'overly large' starter? A reg. chevy starter won't work?
Click to expand...
We have considered Fuel Injection but for cost purposes we decided to just run the quadrajet that came on the engine for now. But down the line I may add an aftermarket EFI kit. And we are using an @Downey bellhousing which requires a starter that mounts on the bellhousing, not the traditional 350 starter that mounts vertically on the block. And this starter just happens to be for a truck and is huge.
 
Pilot bushing / pilot bearing. Is pressed into the rear of the crank and supports the trans input shat nose. Best to ensure the bearing easily slides onto the trans input shaft before pressing into the crank. They sometimes need Emory paper on the trans nose / ID of the bearing to fit easily.
 
S4Cruiser said:
Pilot bushing / pilot bearing. Is pressed into the rear of the crank and supports the trans input shat nose. Best to ensure the bearing easily slides onto the trans input shaft before pressing into the crank. They sometimes need Emory paper on the trans nose / ID of the bearing to fit easily.
Click to expand...
I have not even looked at the one on the 350 so I have no clue what mine is like. I’ll have to check it out.
 
(1) I don't know if you already have the flywheel, clutch, and starter- - -if you don't, I have all three for sale. Obviously cheaper to find them in your own area since postage from me would kill you due to distance. You should seriously consider my "Chevota" clutch, I can explain if necessary.
(2) Regarding your starter, yes the starter that bolts into the bellhousing rather than engine is big and heavy. There was somebody making an adapter piece that let you use one of the smaller high torque starters with your Downey bellhousing, but I tend to be leery of the starters that do not have a bearing supporting the end of the starter shaft (no support while cranking).
 
If there is an adapter out there to put a high torque mini starter on the 350 get it...... Ran one for about 150k miles and never missed a beat... plus the sound of that thing is hard to beat.
 
for cheapness down the line and to add some power
you could always

Add vortec heads
add vortec carb'd intake (cheaper than a tbi one)
Ad a tbi adapter to that intake and then use a stock tbi from the early 90s from any junk yard.

Stock they aren't the bees knees but they are fairly easy to modify for power.

Check out tbi chips for more info on that.
 
5. Toyota Land Cruiser Clutch Components | Tech Vault | Advance Adapters

PILOT BUSHINGS: The pilot bushing that supports the tip of the transmission shaft should be inspected for excessive wear. On Chevy V8 conversions, the original GM pilot bushing diameter will require no changes since it is compatible with the Toyota 3 & 4 speed transmissions. On Ford V8 conversions to the stock Toyota 3 & 4 speed transmissions, you will need to install the new pilot bushing supplied with your kit. When using a GM 4 speed transmission with the stock Land Cruiser 6 cylinder engine, you will need to install our special pilot bushing into the 6 cylinder crankshaft.

PN716170 - Pilot Bearing (GM engine to Toyota 3 & 4 speed transmissions)
PN716153 - Pilot Bearing (Ford engine to Toyota 3 & 4 speed transmissions)
PN716157 - Pilot Bearing (Toyota 6 cylinder to GM transmission)
 
Downey said:
(1) I don't know if you already have the flywheel, clutch, and starter- - -if you don't, I have all three for sale. Obviously cheaper to find them in your own area since postage from me would kill you due to distance. You should seriously consider my "Chevota" clutch, I can explain if necessary.
(2) Regarding your starter, yes the starter that bolts into the bellhousing rather than engine is big and heavy. There was somebody making an adapter piece that let you use one of the smaller high torque starters with your Downey bellhousing, but I tend to be leery of the starters that do not have a bearing supporting the end of the starter shaft (no support while cranking).
Click to expand...
I have a new LUK flywheel, and a new starter I bought from Napa. I also purchased a Chevota clutch from you a few months ago and while I can’t testify to its drivability, it seems to be very nice. What exactly is the difference between it and a Chevy clutch?
 
A Chevy clutch takes .500" travel at the T.O. bearing to disengage, a LUK clutch takes .400" travel to disengage, My Chevota clutch takes .375" of travel to disengage- - -your stock Toyota hydraulics only produces .420" of travel at the T.O. bearing- - -so a stock Chevy clutch should not work at all, and a LUK clutch just barely/border line.
 
Cirbo said:
5. Toyota Land Cruiser Clutch Components | Tech Vault | Advance Adapters

PILOT BUSHINGS: The pilot bushing that supports the tip of the transmission shaft should be inspected for excessive wear. On Chevy V8 conversions, the original GM pilot bushing diameter will require no changes since it is compatible with the Toyota 3 & 4 speed transmissions. On Ford V8 conversions to the stock Toyota 3 & 4 speed transmissions, you will need to install the new pilot bushing supplied with your kit. When using a GM 4 speed transmission with the stock Land Cruiser 6 cylinder engine, you will need to install our special pilot bushing into the 6 cylinder crankshaft.

PN716170 - Pilot Bearing (GM engine to Toyota 3 & 4 speed transmissions)
PN716153 - Pilot Bearing (Ford engine to Toyota 3 & 4 speed transmissions)
PN716157 - Pilot Bearing (Toyota 6 cylinder to GM transmission)
Click to expand...
So I had completely forgot I pulled the 350 off an automajic transmission so it doesn’t even have a pilot bearing/bushing. Looks like I’ll be making a Napa run tomorrow!

Also, Fastenal hadn’t gotten my bolts in today so that is still being awaited.
 
Are the harmonic balancers different on the Chevy between automatic and manual drive?
 
fourtrax said:
Are the harmonic balancers different on the Chevy between automatic and manual drive?
Click to expand...
I’ll have to look into that, I don’t believe they are but I’ll check.

Also, will a pilot bushing work or do I need a pilot bearing? I was reading that a lot of people have pilot bearing failures but bushing rarely fail
 
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