34's on stock setup - it's done, now some advice...

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The Icon wheels are +25 offset. They're actually the same ones I have. I actually think I rub more because by sticking further out the edge of the tire which might tuck in behind the mud flap is now further out and rubs (or rather was rubbing) that spot.

If I do a lift I will do the UCAs. If I don't do a lift I may downgrade to 33s and run them for 4 years or so and then replace them with 34s at which point I'll have the lift and bumper sorted out. Or I may stay with 34s if I can figure out how to compress the suspension to ensure it doesn't rub when wheeling, since I seem to be running without rubbing on the road now.

Ya, wasn't sure the offset. Perhaps wishful thinking I think 40 might be just about perfect for 35's.
 
Ya, wasn't sure the offset. Perhaps wishful thinking I think 40 might be just about perfect for 35's.
I saw a website somewhere that took tire height into account when calculating optimal offset. Iirc +40 or 42 was ideal for a 34, so probably +36 to +38 for a 35
 
Ya, wasn't sure the offset. Perhaps wishful thinking I think 40 might be just about perfect for 35's.
I totally agree, perfect offset for the 200 is right in that 35 to 40 to run a 35x12.50. I have these wheels on my 100 series (they came with it, I don't like the look of them much) they are 18x8.5 with a 35mm offset, perfect for running a 12.5 tire IMO. It's that happy balance between keeping it away from the innards but also not going too far out!
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with added length bump stops and adjustable arms, you should be able to wheel with this size tire without damaging anything.

have you tried to put a jack under the lower control arm and lift just one wheel (passenger side) then turn the steering wheel and see where you have contact?
it won't get to full compression, but should give you an idea of where the wheel will be.
I considered this route but I figure when I move the wheels back and forth it'll fall off the jack.

I might take a 2x12 cut into various lengths and create a makeshift ramp. Working in our NYC office this week so I won't get a chance to test it out again until next when I'm back home
 
Ya, wasn't sure the offset. Perhaps wishful thinking I think 40 might be just about perfect for 35's.
If I get a chance some day I'll slap some 35's on these wheels on my 100 series with a 35 offset and then slap them on the 200 and see how they workout.
 
Yah I watch all of his vids, def knows what he is talking about forsure! I don't disagree with him, the Ironman CFP gets a bit rough when you push the suspension, as did all of the Old Man Emu kits I've run in my previous LC's and Tundra's. Is it the best kit out there, nope, not even close, but for a thousand bucks I knew that was the case. Like most rigs and suspensions they have their sweet spots! Doing 10 to 20mph over rough road is def not a sweet spot on the Ironman CFP kit, that's forsure, but bring it up to about 30mph+ over somewhat rough terrain and she smooth's right out. So yah if ya got an extra 3-5k laying around for a setup I would not recommend the Ironman CFP, I would proly lean toward ICON or the BP-51just from the rigs I've been around that run those. But for a grand I would say it's very similar to all of the base Old Man Emu kits I've run over the past 20 years. Just my 2 cents...
Seems like iron man is like Olive Garden.

It's pretty good... for the price.

I've personally never had iron man, just two friends try them. It was the cheap factor that got them to try it. They both blew shocks after about a year. But I guess they have come a long way now, since you are having ok results.

I've ran quite a lot of regular OME nitro shocks, never had a truck ride rough or uncontrolled. In fact, I think they are pretty great compared to Icons, kings, sway away, fox, and now BPs.

It might be too hard to compare suspensions between a tundra and a 200. The rear end alone, leaf spring with an open c channel frame with upright shocks vs a 4link with panhard with fully boxed frame, coils, and steep angled shocks are very different feeling suspensions in themselves.

To each their own, but either way, good to hear real world reviews from someone who we all know wheels hard.

Definitely helps more people make a better decision on future suspension purchases.
 
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Seems like iron man is like Olive Garden.

It's pretty good... for the price.

I've personally never had iron man, just two friends try them. It was the cheap factor that got them to try it. They both blew shocks after about a year. But I guess they have come a long way now, since you are having ok results.

I've ran quite a lot of regular OME nitro shocks, never had a truck ride rough or uncontrolled. In fact, I think they are pretty great compared to Icons, kings, sway away, fox, and now BPs.

It might be too hard to compare suspensions between a tundra and a 200. The rear end alone, leaf spring with an open c channel frame with upright shocks vs a 4link with panhard with fully boxed frame, coils, and steep angled shocks are very different feeling suspensions in themselves.

To each their own, but either way, good to hear real world reviews from someone who we all know wheels hard.

Definitely helps more people make a better decision on future suspension purchases.
Olive Garden has got some damn good breadstix:)
I've never felt out of control at all with the Ironman's, just ride a bit harsher over certain terrains than I would maybe like, but nothing worse than what I've experienced in all of my OME kits in the past. Trying to describe how a suspension rides and handles is damn near impossible, it's so subjective and too many variables! I can tell you that is does the job we bought it for and we have no buyers remorse at all. I had 3 basic criteria when searching for a suspension, number 1 was durability and longevity! I wanted to install a suspension and then proceed to beat the hell out of it and not think about it. 50k and 2.5 years later I have not touched it at all. My second criteria was price, I wanted something affordable, most of our "Cruiser fund" is actual spent on gas for our wheelin adventures, so I wanted something affordable. And 3rd I wanted it to handle better than stock and give me more control off road. All 3 of these criteria were met with the Ironman kit and it's still going strong! When I pickup my next 200 series I will roll a different kit, not necessarily because I don't like the Ironman kit, but because I believe in trying new stuff, which was also one of the reason's I ended up with the Ironman kit. I had run Old Man Emu for 20 years, was time to branch out!
 
I've had the Ironman suspension from the time I bought mine at 60k until now at 127k. Weren't too many options back then, and this kit came recommended and cheap compared to the other few options out there. One thing I like about them is that they lift the truck a bit more than the standard lift kits, and that was at least somewhat important to me.

Ive been very happy but recognize that there are probably better options for certain situations... for a lot more money. I'd say the weak point is handling mid-speed rough terrain, like 15 - 20 mph washboard kind of stuff. I don't run into that here on the east coast much if ever, but do notice a bit of a rough bumpy ride in the few scenarios I've run into. Anything outside of that scenario, I really can't see anything to complain about? It is subjective though as many have mentioned... I tend to like a firmer suspension than many.
 
No doubt about ironman. I've got Ironman stuff on my 100 and it performs as good as much higher priced alternatives but yes there are still even more expensive options that perform better on mid speed washboard or have flexibility to be adjusted for the desired usage. That's really the main thing Ironman can't do is be dialed in to user preference. That being said it is an untouchable value proposition and my 100 has seen plenty of action on the shock side of things with them holding up just fine. At their price point there's nothing else I'd consider. Really unless I was getting into Icon or BP-51 $$$ territory there is not much else I would consider.

@linuxgod your setup looks great! Ridge Graps are def louder than Revos etc but also way more aggressive. They are definitely at the other end of the ever widening "A/T" range. We were very pleased how the Ridge Graps performed recently on our big trip which saw medium mud, sharp rocks, 6" deep loose cinder pebbles, straight up desert sand and lava fields. They never gave up grip and carried the load well.
 
Unless you're willing to do a lot more cutting on your front bumper and likely still go ahead and get a proper lift, you would be better served to move down a size to 285/70. If you're rubbing on the street, you will absolutely hate the noises and interference you'll get on the trail, and there's a chance you could damage the tire(s) under heavy rubbing on the trail too. I run this exact tire and think it's the greatest thing ever, but I'm running a lift, front bumper, no front mud flaps, KDSS relocation, etc. Also I'm shocked to hear you say you think they're loud as I (as well as every review I've read on the tire) think it's the quietest, smoothest AT ever. Maybe your tire pressure is off because mine are absolutely silent even with the windows down.
@mcgaskins I'm running the same OME spring setup as you and swapping out my 18s for 17s and would like to go with 34s. With running 285/75/17 was the KDSS relocation & SPC UCAs necessary or just precautionary work on your part - I have heard about occasional but not show stopper rubbing? Thanks!
 
@mcgaskins I'm running the same OME spring setup as you and swapping out my 18s for 17s and would like to go with 34s. With running 285/75/17 was the KDSS relocation & SPC UCAs necessary or just precautionary work on your part - I have heard about occasional but not show stopper rubbing? Thanks!

The UCAs were done before I bought the truck, and I added the KDSS relocation when I was on 35s prior to these 34s. I honestly don't know if they'd be needed to run these tires, but adjustable UCAs are always a good idea to dial in the alignment. I would try without the KDSS relocation then add later if needed.
 
The UCAs were done before I bought the truck, and I added the KDSS relocation when I was on 35s prior to these 34s. I honestly don't know if they'd be needed to run these tires, but adjustable UCAs are always a good idea to dial in the alignment. I would try without the KDSS relocation then add later if needed.
I run 34's(285/70 R18) and didn't need the KDSS relocation dealeo. But I roll wheels with a 20mm offset so that's proly helping me out a bit also. And my 34's measure just a bit over 33 on the rig, I seem to remember Slee calculating that any tire with a measurement over 33.7(actual mounted measurement) would need the relocation kit.
 
I run 34's(285/70 R18) and didn't need the KDSS relocation dealeo. But I roll wheels with a 20mm offset so that's proly helping me out a bit also. And my 34's measure just a bit over 33 on the rig, I seem to remember Slee calculating that any tire with a measurement over 33.7(actual mounted measurement) would need the relocation kit.
@kreiten - I plan on 34.06x11.1 on 40mm offset (evo corse dakarzero) - I'm hoping with minor trimming up front (already replaced bumper) I hope to be good - I heard about occasional KDSS rubbing even w 35s but not real facts. @sleeoffroad - would trimming out the tight spot up front fender well (back-side of front) work or per kreiten am I in need of relocation kit - my 200 goods are mostly Slee purchased - so helpful words appreciated - just picked up 2724 to replace my 2723s last week :)
 
@kreiten - I plan on 34.06x11.1 on 40mm offset (evo corse dakarzero) - I'm hoping with minor trimming up front (already replaced bumper) I hope to be good - I heard about occasional KDSS rubbing even w 35s but not real facts. @sleeoffroad - would trimming out the tight spot up front fender well (back-side of front) work or per kreiten am I in need of relocation kit - my 200 goods are mostly Slee purchased - so helpful words appreciated - just picked up 2724 to replace my 2723s last week :)

I'm here to say; a 35 still rubs. Real Fact.
 
@AG200 if you're doing the 34" tire swap soon think about purchasing the kdss relo bracket just to have on hand in case you realize it is needed. It's not expensive and would be nice to have handy if needed - cheap insurance
 
FWIW I think 9 inch Et 35 is about perfect..... assuming a 12.5 or approx width.

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@mcgaskins I'm running the same OME spring setup as you and swapping out my 18s for 17s and would like to go with 34s. With running 285/75/17 was the KDSS relocation & SPC UCAs necessary or just precautionary work on your part - I have heard about occasional but not show stopper rubbing? Thanks!
@kreiten - I plan on 34.06x11.1 on 40mm offset (evo corse dakarzero) - I'm hoping with minor trimming up front (already replaced bumper) I hope to be good - I heard about occasional KDSS rubbing even w 35s but not real facts. @sleeoffroad - would trimming out the tight spot up front fender well (back-side of front) work or per kreiten am I in need of relocation kit - my 200 goods are mostly Slee purchased - so helpful words appreciated - just picked up 2724 to replace my 2723s last week :)

The Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/75R17 is 33.8" x 11.2" by spec. The sidewall says 34" x 11.5". I did a quick left-to-right tape measurement at ~42psi and it seemed more like 33.2 to 33.3" to me when mounted. I don't feel or hear it hit the KDSS, and when parked under full lock there's about 1/2" of clearance - but there is a spot on the KDSS bar where the dust has rubbed off, so I assume under full lock and some motion (maybe reverse, maybe a right turn) the tire must rub the arm ever so slightly. For me it's not something I would worry about, but if you went with a larger tire you likely would need to deal with it. Keep in mind I'm running +25 offset wheels, so if you're running +40 you may have more rubbing.

On 35s I'm sure you'd need the KDSS relo kit. Frankly I can't imagine getting 35s under the LC without significant effort. Front bumper, serious lift, KDSS relo, and a major alignment effort. I know slee did it for @Markuson, but I can tell you that without pushing the caster significantly positive you're going to rub the frame at the rear side of the front tires when turning, not to mention all over the body under the mud flaps, the front bumpers, etc. I have maybe an inch of clearance between my tire and the frame, though the +25 offset wheels probably exascerbate the problem slightly due to the wider circumference of the wheel edge when turning.
 
The Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/75R17 is 33.8" x 11.2" by spec. The sidewall says 34" x 11.5". I did a quick left-to-right tape measurement at ~42psi and it seemed more like 33.2 to 33.3" to me when mounted. I don't feel or hear it hit the KDSS, and when parked under full lock there's about 1/2" of clearance - but there is a spot on the KDSS bar where the dust has rubbed off, so I assume under full lock and some motion (maybe reverse, maybe a right turn) the tire must rub the arm ever so slightly. For me it's not something I would worry about, but if you went with a larger tire you likely would need to deal with it. Keep in mind I'm running +25 offset wheels, so if you're running +40 you may have more rubbing.

On 35s I'm sure you'd need the KDSS relo kit. Frankly I can't imagine getting 35s under the LC without significant effort. Front bumper, serious lift, KDSS relo, and a major alignment effort. I know slee did it for @Markuson, but I can tell you that without pushing the caster significantly positive you're going to rub the frame at the rear side of the front tires when turning, not to mention all over the body under the mud flaps, the front bumpers, etc. I have maybe an inch of clearance between my tire and the frame, though the +25 offset wheels probably exascerbate the problem slightly due to the wider circumference of the wheel edge when turning.

I don't rub on the frame, just about everywhere else. UCAs and a KDSS relocation are basically a must if you want to TRY to avoid rubbing. And chances are you'll still rub somewhere. But the tradeoffs can be worth it depending on the individual.
 

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