33 or 35" tires on a trail trailer

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Mace

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How many people have run a 35" tire on their trail trailer?

4x8 trailer so I need a bit of extra height so I will not be dragging it everywhere.


I want to run 35's but am thinking that it is more realistic to run 33's..

Ideas?
 
How many people have run a 35" tire on their trail trailer?

4x8 trailer so I need a bit of extra height so I will not be dragging it everywhere.


I want to run 35's but am thinking that it is more realistic to run 33's..

Ideas?


I run 35" on my AT Horizon. Not necessarily because I need the extra height but because I wanted all the wheels & tires to match between trailer and the pull rig.
 
i run 35's also,,i've been thinking of droping to 33's so i can lower the fenders. (think countertops)
 
probably cheaper to just add more suspension to the trailer vs. taller tires to get that extra inch
But if you are running 35 on the rig, you can use your old tires w/ a tube (extra puncture resistant) as the ride-quality isn't as much of an issue and you aren't worried about gaining forward traction with the tires
 
I was planning on having the same bolt pattern on the trailer as the 60 just for additional spares. But it looks like six lug trailer hubs are a bit on the pricy side. I already have the 5 lug units so I will probably just stick with that.

I have both a set of 33's and a set of 35's.

Rhino, thanks for bringing up the countertop issue. This trailer will be a chuckwaggon and I really do not want to make it too tall for reasonable cooking..
 
Check Redneck traielr supply for your hubs. They are not bad priced at all. Running the same tire all the way around cuts down on the number of spares.

IMO The desired axle height would the same as or great than your rig axle clearance. This will keep you from draggin your trailer over the same obsticles that you just drive over.
 
I agree completly Dan, the axle under the trailer is 2" reciever tubing, so even a 33 would give me the same clearance as Bob (on 35's)

Thanks for the tip on Redneck..
 
you could also look at using some sort of spacer w/ 6 lugs to convert the hubs. Not ideal... but maybe a better alternative to new hubs. Also, in a real pinch, you could borrow a spare from a Chevy if you had too.

Keep in mind that the trailer axle doesn't have a pumpkin, so you get a lot more clearance there too. Smaller tires won't necessarily create rubbing (35 w/ big housing probably clears about the same as 33 with smaller housing and no pumpkin)

if you aren't using the fender for your kitchen prep, you can always make the tailgate just about whatever height you want but building in a box to the tailgate. When up, it just makes the trailer a tad longer. When down, lower work surface.

Saw one trailer with a 2burner stove built into the tailgate. Looked kinda cool from behind- sorta like an Xterra, in a good way.
 
Stoves are going to be on the sides of the trailer.

The top of the trailer will have sides that will detach and become the cooking surfaces on the side of the trailer.

Propane outlets will be distributed so I can run heaters, stoves, lights, etc..
 
I stuck 33's on my Snowbear trailer a week or so ago and towed it 80 kilometres off-road with a load.
It still has the really really stiff factory springs but i aired down to about 6psi and for the most part it worked great.
The 33's can soak up allot of pot-holes ETC.
I had about six hundred pounds on the trailer.
DSC03912.webp
 
i've got 33's on mine. works great behind all my rigs. couldnt' match tire sizes to my rigs because all my rigs run different size tires. i usually tow it behind my 40 with 36s and it works beautifully.

along the lines as mace, mine has 1" square stock protruding from each corner on the sides for removable "tables".

here's the only halfway decent pic of it behind a rig
DSC01566.webp
 
Run 39s!
 
Like Spressomon, I ran 35's on my converted M416 mostly because I wanted the wheels and tires to match the Cruiser's. I am now in the middle of a very painful conversion to match the wheels/tires of my UZJ100 (running 285/75R16s).
 
Seems to me that for the cost/benefit of changing over hubs, wheels, and tires... you might be just as well off to simply carry an extra spare on the trailer, but it would be cooler to have them all match :)
 
Seems to me that for the cost/benefit of changing over hubs, wheels, and tires... you might be just as well off to simply carry an extra spare on the trailer, but it would be cooler to have them all match :)

Thought about it, but I don't have a good place on the trailer to carry an extra spare.
 
FWIW, I took my Cdn M101 on its first trip last year in the factory configuration. I ran all over SW Colorado mostly 2-3 trails with the occasional 3-4 obstacle. It worked brilliantly, never got hung up on anything, in fact it has better clearance than my 80 on 35's. The only concern was on a few trails the speed of travel combined with an off camber rock really had me thinking that at one time or another it was going to end up on its side, it didn't, but still was a concern. Yes, I did have the trailer aired down but it would still hop around a fair bit.
My original plan was SO and 35's to match the truck.
Now based on the Colorado experience I am thinking low and wide.
I am going to leave the suspension alone. I may still swap hubs and run the 35s but if I go that route I will need to fab custom fenders. Looking into perhaps using spacers to widen up the stance and keeping the stock wheels on it.
 
i've got 33's on mine. works great behind all my rigs. couldnt' match tire sizes to my rigs because all my rigs run different size tires. i usually tow it behind my 40 with 36s and it works beautifully.

along the lines as mace, mine has 1" square stock protruding from each corner on the sides for removable "tables".

here's the only halfway decent pic of it behind a rig

What kind of trailer is this? I like!
 

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