3 Years into a 6 month project ... SBC to LS (1 Viewer)

[hiss]

Exhaust:

For the SBC I had run a true dual stainless exhaust with magnaflow mufflers. I didnt really like where the passenger side routed so this time around I was going to do 2 into 1 under the OD unit. I made it two piece, with a connector under the trans, drivers side to y piece to the back half is one piece, and the passenger side slips in and bolts up. Added 02 bungs and bought new AC Delco O2 sensors to hopefully reduce start up issues.

 

[hiss]

It's Alive!:

I had previously had it start and run for ~1/2 a sec at a time before VATS would kill the ignition. In some ways it was a good thing as a couple of leaks were obvious and probably would have made a much bigger mess if it ran for any length of time.

Now I had the exhaust on , most of the leaks sorted, and vats disabled I could run it for a few minutes.

Unfortunately I cant figure out how to upload a video

Tackled the radiator fans next - went with the Dorman ford contour fans, they are a very close fit., but I would go with OEM Ford next time, the fans seem to pump out enough CFM but the Dorman housing is warped and not straight at all. I used some 3/4" alloy angle and attached it to the shroud, then drilled the holes required. Once I confirmed it lined up I cleaned up all the angle edges and trimmed all the warped edges of the shroud to match the alloy, so it would fit flush.

Made my own relay harness, fan grounds go directly to the battery terminal, relay power and fan power go through a separate fuse per fan on a fuse box located by the battery and the relay grounds connect to the ECM through a weather proof connector (top of photo). Ran cloth loom tape over everything and mounted the relays to the shroud to make it easy to pull in and out as one unit.

Hooked them up then ran the engine up to get them to switch on, I had tested grounding the sensor wires and confirmed they worked that way - but as it was climbing past 200, 210, 220 I was getting concerned. Turns out the stock ECM turns the first fan on at ~225 degrees, so I steadied myself and let it keep climbing, sure enough it turned on around 225 and one fan on its own quickly cooled it down to 210. Internet recommends 205-210 then second fan on at 215-220 so will do that when i circle back to reflashing the ECM.

 

[yotadude520]

When are ya taking her out on the first test drive?!

 

[hiss]

When are ya taking her out on the first test drive?!

Actually did over the weekend, just around the block a couple times. Got a few things to fix up before going any further.

 

[hiss]

AC:

Started on the AC - read that the 26x16 parallel flow radiaotr was a perfect fit, decided to go 24x16 with a built in dryer to save one AC hose. Fits pretty good! The compressor clutch is destroyed so will buy a new compressor just to save any other issues I might have, Plan is to convert to #8 #10 lines then have the single metric fitting on the firewall, with the rest standard sizes.

Gas Pedal:
The pedal that came with the engine pushed into the transmission tunnel even with it as far to the left as I could get it (hard against the steering column). Ended up with e genius (not) idea of mounting both pedals then using the stock 60 pedal to push on the LS pedal. Made a plate out of 2 pieces of 1/4" steel so it isn't going anwhere and it feels fine to drive with, but not happy with it. Not really sure what I was thinking at the time, will probably replace it with a regular drive by wire pedal thats lines up with the correct location.

Consumables:

Been nickel and dimed on the consumables, $10 here, $15 there. Went with assortments for wires/conenctors/bolts etc.

 

[BurntToast]

AC:

Started on the AC - read that the 26x16 parallel flow radiaotr was a perfect fit, decided to go 24x16 with a built in dryer to save one AC hose. Fits pretty good! The compressor clutch is destroyed so will buy a new compressor just to save any other issues I might have, Plan is to convert to #8 #10 lines then have the single metric fitting on the firewall, with the rest standard sizes.
View attachment 3631921

Gas Pedal:
The pedal that came with the engine pushed into the transmission tunnel even with it as far to the left as I could get it (hard against the steering column). Ended up with e genius (not) idea of mounting both pedals then using the stock 60 pedal to push on the LS pedal. Made a plate out of 2 pieces of 1/4" steel so it isn't going anwhere and it feels fine to drive with, but not happy with it. Not really sure what I was thinking at the time, will probably replace it with a regular drive by wire pedal thats lines up with the correct location.
View attachment 3631922

Consumables:

Been nickel and dimed on the consumables, $10 here, $15 there. Went with assortments for wires/conenctors/bolts etc.
View attachment 3631923

Looks like we are tacking similar issues. Where did you get the condenser? I am looking at a universal one here but not 26”

Universal Parallel Flow 14x24 Condenser - https://coldhose.com/products/universal-parallel-flow-14x24-condenser?variant=35532204310688

I plan to run the stock compressor line to a binary pressure switch to the gm compressor. Then use the gm sensor line for idle up

 

[hiss]

Looks like we are tacking similar issues. Where did you get the condenser? I am looking at a universal one here but not 26”

Universal Parallel Flow 14x24 Condenser - https://coldhose.com/products/universal-parallel-flow-14x24-condenser?variant=35532204310688

I plan to run the stock compressor line to a binary pressure switch to the gm compressor. Then use the gm sensor line for idle up

Amazon.com

I got most of my info from Builds - V8 (SBC) to V8 (Gen III Vortec) swap in my FJ60... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/v8-sbc-to-v8-gen-iii-vortec-swap-in-my-fj60.943754/page-6#post-11124016 - he reused the small Toyota fitting on the firewall for the high comp, then redid the rest with standard sizes - using an adapter on the compressor then new everything else. Ive done some research and I believe the Toyota fitting is an m14 o-ring. I am thinking of getting coldhose custom lines made since I only need three now.

The 26 will fit if you want to max out the space, the build thread above he uses a 26. I have added rivnuts to the top and bottom of the condensor I bought for mounting. Will get a pic soon.

 

[BurntToast]

Amazon.com

Ive neve rplayed with AC before untill I recently did an r12-r134a conversion on another project. I got most of my info from Builds - V8 (SBC) to V8 (Gen III Vortec) swap in my FJ60... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/v8-sbc-to-v8-gen-iii-vortec-swap-in-my-fj60.943754/page-6#post-11124016 - he reused the small Toyota fitting on the firewall for the high comp, then redid the rest with standard sizes. Ive done some research and I believe the toyota fitting is an m14x1 or 1.5 o ring. I am thinking of getting coldhose custom lines made since I only need three now.

I think Ill do the same. I measured the A/C fittings and M14x1.5 is close, but really they are 9/16x18 on the small side of both condenser and evap. Unfortunately that basically doesn't exist but M14x1.5 is really close so i assume it just "works". Large ones are standard #10 and #8

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Looks like we are tacking similar issues. Where did you get the condenser? I am looking at a universal one here but not 26”

Universal Parallel Flow 14x24 Condenser - https://coldhose.com/products/universal-parallel-flow-14x24-condenser?variant=35532204310688

I plan to run the stock compressor line to a binary pressure switch to the gm compressor. Then use the gm sensor line for idle up

You don't really need the idle up the ecm sees a load and will idle up slightly not saying it wouldn't be a good idea I'm not positive on how much the idle up it changes the rpm.

 

[hiss]

I think Ill do the same. I measured the A/C fittings and M14x1.5 is close, but really they are 9/16x18 on the small side of both condenser and evap. Unfortunately that basically doesn't exist but M14x1.5 is really close so i assume it just "works". Large ones are standard #10 and #8

Yeah I think you're right, the thread only holds the hose in place and the oring is doing the work, so as long as it doesnt feel like its cross threading it should be fine. Just reading your build now - did you have an FB post recently about finding your Dad's old 60 ?

 

[BurntToast]

You don't really need the idle up the ecm sees a load and will idle up slightly not saying it wouldn't be a good idea I'm not positive on how much the idle up it changes the rpm.

I probably dont, but the wire harness has an empty plug for it and I dont want it dangling

Yeah I think you're right, the thread only holds the hose in place and the oring is doing the work, so as long as it doesnt feel like its cross threading it should be fine. Just reading your build now - did you have an FB post recently about finding your Dad's old 60 ?

In my build I have a photo of his, but I don't have a FB account, so probably some one else!

Here is my electrical/AC hose diagram

 

[hiss]

Been a minute, Phoenix summer kicked my a** this year so hid inside with the AC, and had a couple other project cars to deal with.

Was having issues with fuel pumps and the searching suggested the aftermarket corvette filters/regulators were a common cause and they stop regulating. Switched to an adjustable fuel pressure regulator mounted on the firewall, put a walbro fuel pump in and a pre and post filter - fingers crossed thats solved.

Have a local patch of desert a few miles form my house and on the last test I managed to invter the front suspension so got some ant-inversion shackles from Ironman, little bummed they didnt come in the nickel plating but they work great.

Also fitted LED headlights and blacked out the grill - had to add a relay on each headlight to work with the FJ's switched ground between Hi and Lo.

 

[AKHerms]

Been a minute, Phoenix summer kicked my a** this year so hid inside with the AC, and had a couple other project cars to deal with.

Was having issues with fuel pumps and the searching suggested the aftermarket corvette filters/regulators were a common cause and they stop regulating. Switched to an adjustable fuel pressure regulator mounted on the firewall, put a walbro fuel pump in and a pre and post filter - fingers crossed thats solved.

Have a local patch of desert a few miles form my house and on the last test I managed to invter the front suspension so got some ant-inversion shackles from Ironman, little bummed they didnt come in the nickel plating but they work great.

Also fitted LED headlights and blacked out the grill - had to add a relay on each headlight to work with the FJ's switched ground between Hi and Lo.

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It’s been a minute but how has the rig been running for you? What MPG are you getting? There is a ‘85 60 for sale that’s got a SBC 350 with the ranger OD in it. Looks a bit rough and kind of a hack set up. I’d guess it would need a lot of work. Was thinking of doing pretty this same set up you did here. Great work!

 

[hiss]

Been driving it a bit here and there working out kinks - been bit by cheaping out on the high pressure fuel hose so had to replace all of it after a few catastrophic leaks at ~60 psi

I haven't tracked mpg but the LS is worth doing compared to the sbc, and definitely compared to the f series motor - I'm still in the 'honeymoon' phase and flooring it everywhere and its not fast by any means but definitely keeps up with traffic and then some.

I've read that the ranger units whine quite loud, and mine definitely is, doesn't bother me but if you can take it for a test drive I would. My 4 speed has well worn synchros so will go to a 5 speed at some point, haven't decided if I take out the ranger at that point.

I'd say go for it - these things are easy to work on and plenty of space. Happy to provide more info and stuff I wouldnt do again.

 

[AKHerms]

Been driving it a bit here and there working out kinks - been bit by cheaping out on the high pressure fuel hose so had to replace all of it after a few catastrophic leaks at ~60 psi

I haven't tracked mpg but the LS is worth doing compared to the sbc, and definitely compared to the f series motor - I'm still in the 'honeymoon' phase and flooring it everywhere and its not fast by any means but definitely keeps up with traffic and then some.

I've read that the ranger units whine quite loud, and mine definitely is, doesn't bother me but if you can take it for a test drive I would. My 4 speed has well worn synchros so will go to a 5 speed at some point, haven't decided if I take out the ranger at that point.

I'd say go for it - these things are easy to work on and plenty of space. Happy to provide more info and stuff I wouldnt do again.

Awesome thanks for the reply! The SBC swapped 60 I’m looking at: Log into Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/share/1ESDoPrNoG/?mibextid=wwXIfr

 

[hiss]

Awesome thanks for the reply! The SBC swapped 60 I’m looking at: Log into Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/share/1ESDoPrNoG/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Price seems good - its worth that in parts imo, fenders and hatch are worth $$$.