3 hole turbo

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brownbear

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Hi after seeing Diesel Dudes turbo I have been looking into the possibilty of going the mitsubishi turbo route. Due to the ability of bolting it right to my flipped manifold.

http://www.turbocalculator.com/sale-mitsubishi.php

so one question I have, if it has a internal wastegate, does that mean I can control the boost thru a grainger valve or such? That way I can turn the fuel up to keep in limits with EGTs and put my boost somewhere safe.

Looking at the picture in the link above, is the gold colour diaphram looking part the wastegate? if I can control the air px going into that then I can limit the boost to say 10-13 psi.

Even buying a mitsubishi new plus some lines and fittings would be under a $1000
still half the price of a kit from axt or a denco.
 
There is no internal waste gate it is a solid housing. No adjustability at all. I have a turbo for sale it needs the rebuild kit which costs $225CND. Ill sell the turbo, drainline, pressureline, and the intake tube which goes from the turbo to the intake manifold for $300CND plus shipping. So you could actually do it for just over $500.00 with shipping.
Cheers
 
I saw one of the Mitsubushi turbo's last weekend. It looks physically much smaller than the AXT turbo which would cause me to worry about performance at higher rpm's.
 
I have the mitsubishi on my landcruiser BJ42 and it pulls up to 4100rpm in first second and third with out any problems, I havnt tried fourth because that would be pretty crazy in a fourty.
 
VTCruiser said:
what higher rpms? ;) :D we are talking diesels aren't we?

Yep, we're talking diesels, but the AXT is optimized to the 3.4 liter 3B. A smaller turbo is going to spool up faster and reach it's maximum boost sooner in the rpm range thus causing some restriction further up that same range with a corresponding loss of power.
 
I saw an axt turbo set up on a 3b and it is the standard garrett t3 with an a/r ratio of .42 and .48....same turbo that is on the nissan 280zx , some ford 2.3 ltr. 4 cyl and alot of volvo 's . Now the volvo has a somewhat different ex. inlet but the others are the same , they are just clocked differently . I beleive Axt choose this turbo because it is a readily available unit in regular production .The air flow of the 3b at say 2500 rpm is probably the same as a 2.3 gasser at 3000-3500 rpm so it would work for both applications . A turbo off a 2.2 to 2.5 ltr gasser would work adequately on a 3b .
It all depends on how much boost you want to run....the 3b is not a high performance engine.....if you are going to run say 15 lbs of boost then even the Axt turbo is inadequate , as is the 3b ! The Axt/ t3 turbo is no good above approx 13-14 psi...I know cause I have played with several of these t3 turbos and that is the limit for their efficiency .
stick with 6-9 psi and you and your 3b will live a happy life...remember it is a land cruiser.

This of course is only my opinion after playing with 6 turbo cars and building two systems .
HTH in some way , Daryl
 
A little off topic but.......has anyone ever fliped the manifold on a 2H to put a turbo on?................still 3 holes :grinpimp:
 
fjbj40 said:
I saw an axt turbo set up on a 3b and it is the standard garrett t3 with an a/r ratio of .42 and .48....same turbo that is on the nissan 280zx , some ford 2.3 ltr. 4 cyl and alot of volvo 's . Now the volvo has a somewhat different ex. inlet but the others are the same , they are just clocked differently . I beleive Axt choose this turbo because it is a readily available unit in regular production .The air flow of the 3b at say 2500 rpm is probably the same as a 2.3 gasser at 3000-3500 rpm so it would work for both applications . A turbo off a 2.2 to 2.5 ltr gasser would work adequately on a 3b .
It all depends on how much boost you want to run....the 3b is not a high performance engine.....if you are going to run say 15 lbs of boost then even the Axt turbo is inadequate , as is the 3b ! The Axt/ t3 turbo is no good above approx 13-14 psi...I know cause I have played with several of these t3 turbos and that is the limit for their efficiency .
stick with 6-9 psi and you and your 3b will live a happy life...remember it is a land cruiser.

This of course is only my opinion after playing with 6 turbo cars and building two systems .
HTH in some way , Daryl

I agree on all points. The Mitsubushi turbo in question is off a 2.4 or so DIESEL not a gasser. That's the problem that I see. My daughter's FJ55 runs a Volvo turbo so I'm not beholden to AXT either.
 
Diesel Dude said:
There is no internal waste gate it is a solid housing. No adjustability at all. I have a turbo for sale it needs the rebuild kit which costs $225CND. Ill sell the turbo, drainline, pressureline, and the intake tube which goes from the turbo to the intake manifold for $300CND plus shipping. So you could actually do it for just over $500.00 with shipping.
Cheers

Hey DieselDude, which turbo is this? the one off of your 42?

I like the idea of controling the boost. But I don't know for sure.

How is it done on a T3?
 
Ya that is the same as the turbo off of my 42. I adjust the boost just by controlling the amount of fuel.
 
Diesel Dude said:
Ya that is the same as the turbo off of my 42. I adjust the boost just by controlling the amount of fuel.

Dieseldude, Why did you take it off? Are you running a different turbo now?

Cruiser_guy what turbo did you put on the 55? What did you do for a manifold?
I know you said volvo, but just wondering which one. As well how are you controling boost?
 
I can't recall what Volvo model it came from. The manifold was a 13B-T manifold that I picked up cheap :) No I don't have another manifold and if I did there's an FJ45LV that might be in need! The Volvo turbo I'm using is not internally controlled so I can vary boost by changing the length of the actuator arm just like on the AXT.

Frankly, I don't know how you would vary boost just by changing fuel delivery. You need to vary the point at which the wastegate opens. that's accomplished by varying the length of the actuator arm.
 
Did the volvo bolt right up to the 13b-t mainifold?

Is the actuator arm you are refering to control a external wastegate?
 
I am in the experimental stage so far that is the easiest turbo to install I still have one mitsu turbo other than that one that I am probably going to put back on. That one started leaking oil into the intake side so that is why I took it off and while having it off I figured Id try a few other turbos just to see the difference so far I havnt found one that I am as happy with as the mitsu.
 
brownbear said:
Did the volvo bolt right up to the 13b-t mainifold?

Is the actuator arm you are refering to control a external wastegate?

The wastegate is part of the turbo housing but it's controlled through a diapragm on the outside with a rod linking the diapragm and the wastegate. The bolt pattern of the Volvo that I got was the same, it just needed a steel plate because the bore of the turbo was slightly different than the manifold.
 
cruiser_guy said:
The wastegate is part of the turbo housing but it's controlled through a diapragm on the outside with a rod linking the diapragm and the wastegate. The bolt pattern of the Volvo that I got was the same, it just needed a steel plate because the bore of the turbo was slightly different than the manifold.

So In essence you could control when the gate closes(actuator arm) as well as what psi it starts to open by installing a regulator on the feed line.To control the top end boost. Does that sound right?

Diesel Dude, did you just change that after I saw your setup? What did you do to hook up other turbos that didn't involve welding on a new adapter? Or did you sacrifice the other manifold from your old engine?
 
brownbear said:
So In essence you could control when the gate closes(actuator arm) as well as what psi it starts to open by installing a regulator on the feed line.To control the top end boost. Does that sound right?

Not exactly, the diapragm operates on pressure. You vary the length of the actuator to change when the wastegate opens. The shorter the rod the more pressure needed to make the rod move enough to open the wastegate and the higher final boost pressure. The diapragm sort of operates as a regulator.
 
I had it up to 14psi and my pyro ran at 900degrees max (its mounted right after the turbo)
Cheers
 

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