Builds 3 days and 3300 miles later (1 Viewer)

[ColoCruiserJeff]

Matt-

Looking great on the 45! I just had a quick question about your painting style in your booth. I've always hung-up my smaller items...ie radiator housing, seat frames, hinges, etc. BUT how do you hang your stuff without them swinging in the blast from your paint gun? If you're using the good PPG stuff, I'm assuming you're also shooting an HVLP/Compliant gun.

The blast from my HVLP gun blows the hanging items around like there's no tomorrow! Any ideas??

Thanks!

 

[buckroseau]

About 1.5 on the lpb tonight.

Pretty much empty'd the paint booth and loaded up with a few more parts I had blasted last Saturday that needed to be black. Sprayed a couple coats of DP90LF and then a couple coats of single stage. Turned out decent I guess....some of that stuff was pitted up pretty good, I might end up blasting and painting a few different ones if I round them up. For now these will be fine....

I had planned on possibly having some down time this week so I started ordering parts for the stereo system. Last week I ordered an Eclipse 100 watt amp and a pair of Bose 151's. I have the 151's in my 40 and I know they sound excellent. So, I knew if I could wedge them in some where I could have an awesome sound. I did some measuring before I ordered them and I am going to mount a speaker underneath both seats and the amp underneath there also. You won't see any of it and there will be a little headphone jack cord coming up between the seats that I can plug my MP3 player into. I can always poke the wire down inbetween the seats and with this system I get to keep the cheesy AM radio in the dash. ;p

I fired up a test bench run tonight, worked great and sounds great. And I love the fact the none of this is going to be seen......

Matt

 

[buckroseau]

Matt-

Looking great on the 45! I just had a quick question about your painting style in your booth. I've always hung-up my smaller items...ie radiator housing, seat frames, hinges, etc. BUT how do you hang your stuff without them swinging in the blast from your paint gun? If you're using the good PPG stuff, I'm assuming you're also shooting an HVLP/Compliant gun.

The blast from my HVLP gun blows the hanging items around like there's no tomorrow! Any ideas??

Thanks!

I am using an HVLP gravity fed gun. I get a little swinging sometimes on a few parts. If I know it's going to be light and a problem I try to tie it up in 2 places. Sometimes you kinda have to spray with the swing keeping the gun the same distance from the object as it swinging and as your moving.

Although, I think the biggest thing I do if it starts to swing is turn down the presure at the gun. I don't know where you presure regulator is, but you should have 1 on the gun and if you don't you can buy one that will go on the end. I am always adjusting my presure as I spray different objects.

You can turn it down pretty low...you will know when you went to far when the primer/paint doesn't atomize worth a sh-t and starts to go on like wall texture....but you can get it pretty low.

Hope this helps, Matt

 

[MDH33]

Looking great Matt.

MP3 players and amps?? What!? You mean the sweet music of a 2F isn't enough for you?

 

[miker]

Hey Matt, I noticed that you didn't completely paint the front fender tops or the outside of the tub (cowl area, etc). I asssume you are going to paint the outside at one time once its all assembled? If so, and when you do this, how do you go about blending in the two stage paint? And do you have to sand the clear/color that you will be shooting over?

Also, wondering why you are doing it this way vs. completely painting each panel at one time...

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to learn and understand.

 

[MDH33]

Hey Matt, I noticed that you didn't completely paint the front fender tops or the outside of the tub (cowl area, etc). I asssume you are going to paint the outside at one time once its all assembled? If so, and when you do this, how do you go about blending in the two stage paint? And do you have to sand the clear/color that you will be shooting over?

Also, wondering why you are doing it this way vs. completely painting each panel at one time...

Sorry for all the questions, just trying to learn and understand.

I asked a similar question when he was rebuilding the FJ45LV:

Post #1922

Matt gave a great explanation about "jamming" the paint.

 

[buckroseau]

I asked a similar question when he was rebuilding the FJ45LV:

Post #1922

Matt gave a great explanation about "jamming" the paint.

I was going to go look for that post....I remebered answering that before


Does that answer your question(s) Miker?

Matt

 

[miker]

I asked a similar question when he was rebuilding the FJ45LV:

Post #1922

Matt gave a great explanation about "jamming" the paint.

Thanks, that answers some of my questions. I'd still like to know more about how the exterior is prepped in those areas where the paint is "jammed" or "fadded" onto the exterior panels prior to final shoot.

I'll see if I can answer my own questions from the LV buildup thread but dang that's a long thread. I need some more

 

[miker]

Does that answer your question(s) Miker?

Matt

Not quite, see prior post but I did some searching of your LV buildup and from post #2282 and forward it answers all I wanted to know. Thanks!

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=1087949&postcount=2282

 

[buckroseau]

Not quite, see prior post but I did some searching of your LV buildup and from post #2282 and forward it answers all I wanted to know. Thanks!

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=1087949&postcount=2282

Mike, couple photos...one of the lv and the other is my 40 from 3 or so years ago when I painted it.

Basiclly you wet sand the entire vehicle with 400 grit. I then use soap and water and a gray scotchbrite pad and scrub down the entire vehicle. Especially in the corners and small areas, just in case you missed any areas with wet sanding and you have those areas sanded for the paint to stick to.

You can see everything gets back taped and then you can shoot base/clear on the entire vehicle. This assures that the paint matches exactly since it all was sprayed the same day at the same time.

I think most everything else might be answered in the lv thread?

Hope this helps, Matt

 

[miker]

Thanks Matt. Very good explanation and exactly what I wanted to know.

Your build threads are very inspiring. I love those two pictures you just posted with the 40 and the LV all final sanded, masked, cleaned and just waiting for paint. I'm having a very strange urge to hold my Binks M1G ;p

 

[Rhinoliner]

Matt,
I'm trying to figure out from those last two pictures and the explanation why the front bib isn't included in the spray it all at once strategy.

Thanks,
Marvin

 

[buckroseau]

Matt,
I'm trying to figure out from those last two pictures and the explanation why the front bib isn't included in the spray it all at once strategy.

Thanks,
Marvin

Marvin,

You could do it in the spray it all at once strategy, and probably should. But, because of the headlight assemblies and a few other parts up there...and then the little area that shows after you have the bezel on....I chose to just shoot the whole thing while it was hanging and tape off the entire bezel.

I think that's a judgement call IMOP.....

Matt

 

[MoCoNative]

I ended up painting the firewall and front floor boards and dash and so forth on my 40 seperate so I put that much back together. But When I painted the rest of the 40, I shot rear inside tub, all the exterior and all of the other parts totally dissasembled in one shot in one day. I did this for the same reasons as mentioned above, consistent color and application. But it is a huge undertaking to have everything prepped, primed, sanded and cleaned for a single shot. I further complicated things by having a sealing primer that required topcoating within a few hours.

I managed to assemble it all without dinging it up, but it is a big job. So there are a few ways to look at it.

Toyota painted the bodies as one entire peice, inside and out, pre-assembled as far as I could tell. It seamed they primed each peice individually, then assembled them and then shot the color. But where the door hinges bolt on, the hood hinges, the windshild hinges and the seam between the bib and fender parts had only primer under them and will readily trap moisture and rust.

I opted to paint each peice to avoid this and then put it all back together. It really depends on how stock you want to get, or how good your are at blending paint lines and proper taping. Myself, I hate to see tape lines and I can't blend very well. I also hate the mess of overspary on the other components. So it is a preference and skill issue I suppose.

 

[merbesfield]

Is there anything to know with regards to the jambs and various body cracks that receive overspary when you paint the outside? Or do you just rub out the overspray that gets into those areas?

 

[buckroseau]

Gotta an actual hour of work and then a little over an hour of staring and figuring a few things out.

Hauled in the parts I had painted black a couple days ago. Pic of the rear spare tire x-member bolted in, front bumper brackets and running board supports. Running board supports will probably come back off for paint, but at least there out of the way where there at now.

I also had an extra piece of 1/4" iron that I bought when I had one like this made up for the rear lv bumper, flat stock sheared and then bent at 90. It slid over the brackets up front like a glove. Going to basiclly copy CCOT's hell for stout bumper....pics which I stole off there site. I have the same warn winch and should be relatively easy to make.

Might not get to that for a while...have to work tomorrow night, going to go get parts from the acid guy. Everything was done except for the box, at least I can get started on the other stuff now.

Matt

 

[buckroseau]

more

 

[buckroseau]

last 2

 

[buckroseau]

Is there anything to know with regards to the jambs and various body cracks that receive overspary when you paint the outside? Or do you just rub out the overspray that gets into those areas?

Pretty much try to tape off everything you can, so there is no overspray....but, there will be some.

In the doors on the lv I used this stuff called soft seal..or something like that? It was this foam that you stuck to the inside of the jamb along the edge. The idea is that the clear bounces off and gives a soft line along the jamb. After you done, you can go back and polish this edge out so you would never know where you started and where you ended. So yes...you do just tub out those areas that get overspray in them.

Matt

 

[Texican]

The HFS bumper is a very nice unit, Steve got input from us when designing it..... CCOT is local for us, they work with LSLC a lot ........ so I have installed several.
Butch