Matt,
Here are a couple of pics I have of my spare tire mount that may help you. I can take some of the mount off of the frame if you need them.
Keep up the great work.
Marvin
Builds 3 days and 3300 miles later (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter buckroseau
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Matt,
Here are a couple of pics I have of my spare tire mount that may help you. I can take some of the mount off of the frame if you need them.
Keep up the great work.
Marvin
Matt,
Any reason why you are going to paint this frame instead of powder coating like the frame on your LV?
buckroseau
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- #303
Took the day off from work today, got about 10 hours in the lpb today. About 8 on the frame and 2 on the cab.
Started installing the front x-member. Turned down a dozen carriage bolts in the lathe to get the square off. Pretty much went as I expected. Carriage bolts went in from the bottom, nut on top. Cut the excess bolt off, drill down into the center and cranked up the welder wide open. After it was welded, ground it down......seemed to work good. Only thing I didn't like is that the nuts were larger in dia. than the orginal buck rivet heads. Not a big deal, I made a change on the steering pedestal.
On the steering pedestal I used a 3/8" flange nut instead of a 7/16". I drill the nut out and tapped it to 7/16". Not only for asthetics, but I needed the smaller nut on the pedestal anyway. I guess on the next one I'll do it that way
But, overall still very happy and should look great once it's in high gloss black.
Moved onto the rear x-member. Cleaned a lot of stuff up with the blaster first. I had to weld some holes shut that were torched in from that bumper install. Also had to cut out a section of the 78 x-member and replace it with new 1/8" steel. It had rotted out and was paper thin in some areas. Cut that out, welded in new stuff and ground down, you could never tell I was there.
I blasted and primed areas that I wouldn't be able to get at once the frame got blasted. Figured it was never done at the factory, but wanted some protection since I was there. Did the same carriage bolt thing, but used 3/8" on the rear since that was the hole dia. Same program, pics should say it all.
I had to grind down and clean up left over scab weld plates, but got everything cleaned up. Also cut off the 66 spare tire carrier mounts on the shock mount tube and made it look like they were never there. I am going to be using the 78 tire carrier mount. One other thing that has amazed me on this project is how all the holes have lined up perfectly? 66 and 78 frame, 12 years apart and all the holes are absolutey perfect. I am using bolts that have very tight tolerance's in the holes, just suprises me that I haven't had to drill out anything.
Got dark so I headed into the paint booth and blocked out the cab in 80 grit again. Getting extremly close. Sprayed another couple coats of ureathane primer, block it again soon......but maybe only 1 more coat after than?? Well see?
I have to head out of town for work this weekend, so I don't know how much will get done in the next week. I have a little more frame tweaking to do, couple misc. bent brackets that need a little love, but no big deal. After that I have a pile of parts I want to haul to someone to blast. Frame, rims, leaf springs, misc. brackets....etc.... After sandblasting, start painting to beat hell....and then start putting it back together
Matt
Started installing the front x-member. Turned down a dozen carriage bolts in the lathe to get the square off. Pretty much went as I expected. Carriage bolts went in from the bottom, nut on top. Cut the excess bolt off, drill down into the center and cranked up the welder wide open. After it was welded, ground it down......seemed to work good. Only thing I didn't like is that the nuts were larger in dia. than the orginal buck rivet heads. Not a big deal, I made a change on the steering pedestal.
On the steering pedestal I used a 3/8" flange nut instead of a 7/16". I drill the nut out and tapped it to 7/16". Not only for asthetics, but I needed the smaller nut on the pedestal anyway. I guess on the next one I'll do it that way
But, overall still very happy and should look great once it's in high gloss black.Moved onto the rear x-member. Cleaned a lot of stuff up with the blaster first. I had to weld some holes shut that were torched in from that bumper install. Also had to cut out a section of the 78 x-member and replace it with new 1/8" steel. It had rotted out and was paper thin in some areas. Cut that out, welded in new stuff and ground down, you could never tell I was there.
I blasted and primed areas that I wouldn't be able to get at once the frame got blasted. Figured it was never done at the factory, but wanted some protection since I was there. Did the same carriage bolt thing, but used 3/8" on the rear since that was the hole dia. Same program, pics should say it all.
I had to grind down and clean up left over scab weld plates, but got everything cleaned up. Also cut off the 66 spare tire carrier mounts on the shock mount tube and made it look like they were never there. I am going to be using the 78 tire carrier mount. One other thing that has amazed me on this project is how all the holes have lined up perfectly? 66 and 78 frame, 12 years apart and all the holes are absolutey perfect. I am using bolts that have very tight tolerance's in the holes, just suprises me that I haven't had to drill out anything.
Got dark so I headed into the paint booth and blocked out the cab in 80 grit again. Getting extremly close. Sprayed another couple coats of ureathane primer, block it again soon......but maybe only 1 more coat after than?? Well see?
I have to head out of town for work this weekend, so I don't know how much will get done in the next week. I have a little more frame tweaking to do, couple misc. bent brackets that need a little love, but no big deal. After that I have a pile of parts I want to haul to someone to blast. Frame, rims, leaf springs, misc. brackets....etc.... After sandblasting, start painting to beat hell....and then start putting it back together
Matt
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Because I have quite a bit of DP90LF and Single stage to use up
Well, that's part of it I guess. My 77 FJ40 I did 3 years ago, I used the above. It's coming up on it's 3rd salty winter now and stilll looks great. I don't have anytime on the lv, so I can't say whether powder coating is good or bad yet?
One thing I did notice when I powder coated is that the powder has a tough time getting into tight 90 degree spaces. In a corner the metal opposes one another, so it doesn't cover it small nooks and cranny's very well. I still think it's good, but I know that I can hose on DP in corners, nooks and any small area I can point a gun at. I might even take a foam brush and slop it inside the frame rails....after sandblasting of course.
So, no particular reason...just that I know DP90LF and MTK single stage works extremely well.
Edit: and by the way...thanks for the pics!!!
Matt
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Genius
keep up the great work
keep up the great work
My favourite thread.
Lup
Lup
Texican
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buckroseau
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- #316
Gonna be difficult to insert spare tire crank.........
That's one of those little things I have left to do before blasting.
Texican
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That's one of those little things I have left to do before blasting.
I saw that and thought that was a stunt I would pull.....bet ya wished ya had cut the hole prior to hookin' 'em together.......:whoops:
buckroseau
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No, I planned it that way. Once they were bolted back together I could use that as my guide. I plan on hole sawing out the center and then die-grinding the notches into the side. Should be and look the same as the 78 frame.
Matt
It's been 6 days. Hell, he probably has the truck done by now
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