3 blown up radiators 96 fj 80
- Thread starter Sburnh71
- Start date
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The coolant system is getting pressurized so my guess would be a cracked block or head.
Bad radiator cap?
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Toyota or aftermarket, brass or plastic/alloy?
Define this "blown out lower tank", cracked, leaking, blew the whole tank off, etc?
The system is designed to be pressurized, as long as the cap is working, it will vent excess pressure.
- Thread starter
- #5
it has cratered all 3 radiators...they dump all fluid in one big bang. Never overheats, runs great for 5-6 miles then explodes. All fluids look clear. When we replaced the head gasket, all hoses were also replaced. The radiators are blowing before the hoses break.
We're all confused.
We're all confused.
Could you please help us help you by answering the questions everyone posts. Without knowing the details of your specific vehicle, no one will know how to help. It is the same as posting "my vehicle runs bad, does anyone know why?"
I have never had any luck with aftermarket radiators.. always go oem with this type of thing
I have never had any luck with aftermarket radiators.. always go oem with this type of thing!
I have an OEM radiator for sale over in CLASSIFIEDS...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/395647-new-unused-3-row-oem-fjz80-radiator.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/sale-parts/395647-new-unused-3-row-oem-fjz80-radiator.html
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
I would not be testing the rad cap I would have put a new one on. It takes a damn sight more than 13 psi to blow a radiator, in fact many cars older Jaguars for example run at 15 psi with no issues and the rads are all the same with no special construction.
regards
Dave
regards
Dave
How about finding a mechanic that has a pressure gauge to attach to the system....obviously something isn't right.
Does coolant shoot from the radiator if you start it without the cap on?
Does coolant shoot from the radiator if you start it without the cap on?
inkpot
SILVER Star
Howdy! Even with a stuck thermostat or blocked coolant passage, the system is designed to allow the extra pressure to exit via the cap and overflow. Does your rig have any mods like lift, supercharger, etc that might help explain this? It sounds like there is something causing physical stress/damage to the lower tank. John
- Thread starter
- #16
No mods at all. Mechanic is now thinking a cracked block but there were no signs of this. Cruiser ran great up until the radiator blows up.
This started 1 month ago with a small hose that cracked near the firewall. They repaired that and the next day the original radiator blew off the top. Second and Third did the same thing (both aluminum) Finally decided he head gasket was the issue. REplaced that and now the 3rd (brass) radiator just blew out.
Could gasket that was replaced be faulty? Could something be plugged?
Not sure what to do next
Thanks
This started 1 month ago with a small hose that cracked near the firewall. They repaired that and the next day the original radiator blew off the top. Second and Third did the same thing (both aluminum) Finally decided he head gasket was the issue. REplaced that and now the 3rd (brass) radiator just blew out.
Could gasket that was replaced be faulty? Could something be plugged?
Not sure what to do next
Thanks
id say pressure test the system...run a heat gun in the engine to see how hott its running...
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
I'm sorry if I am sounding rude but someone cannot see the wood for the trees here!
If the radiator is 'seeing' enough pressure to split it's tanks then the radiator cap is not working properly or the rad is faulty.
If you cemented up the front of the radiator and replaced all hoses with non expanding steel and started to apply pressure a correctly working (and correct type/fitment) cap will release ithat pressure at about 13psi.
The radiator cap is designed to release the pressure of the heated water into the expansion tank, then once the pressure lowers the cap reseats and contains the pressure to a MAXIMUM of 13 psi which is WAAAAAAY below the threshhold of a radiator burtsing. As the engine cools the water is drawn back from the expansion tank and the inner valve closes again.
The radiator cap does not give a damn if the pressure is coming from a faulty head gasket, a cracked block, restricted hoses, a jammed giggling pin, or the engine being overheated by excessive cosmic rays from visiting martians, at the end of the day if there is pressure it will release it period.
With this constant overheating I would not be surprised if you did have a cracked block by now but the radiator cap is the device that releases the pressure which has built within the system.
I noted earlier in the thread you stated your garage checked the radiator cap? With what, a quick sqeeze between greasy finger and thumb? If he has the correct equipment to pressure check the radiator cap then he has the correct equipment to check system pressures right?
Add to this that if the rads you or he are supplying may be faulty might it be a good idea to pressure check the rad using his equipment to see if a new one can sustain at least 13psi before it is fitted? A new rad should easily hold well over 25 psi and probably more. Have you considered for a moment why your heater rad (same construction) that is also subjected to this same pressure and is probably a damn sight older/worn has not burst inside the car yet why?
regards
Dave
If the radiator is 'seeing' enough pressure to split it's tanks then the radiator cap is not working properly or the rad is faulty.
If you cemented up the front of the radiator and replaced all hoses with non expanding steel and started to apply pressure a correctly working (and correct type/fitment) cap will release ithat pressure at about 13psi.
The radiator cap is designed to release the pressure of the heated water into the expansion tank, then once the pressure lowers the cap reseats and contains the pressure to a MAXIMUM of 13 psi which is WAAAAAAY below the threshhold of a radiator burtsing. As the engine cools the water is drawn back from the expansion tank and the inner valve closes again.
The radiator cap does not give a damn if the pressure is coming from a faulty head gasket, a cracked block, restricted hoses, a jammed giggling pin, or the engine being overheated by excessive cosmic rays from visiting martians, at the end of the day if there is pressure it will release it period.
With this constant overheating I would not be surprised if you did have a cracked block by now but the radiator cap is the device that releases the pressure which has built within the system.
I noted earlier in the thread you stated your garage checked the radiator cap? With what, a quick sqeeze between greasy finger and thumb? If he has the correct equipment to pressure check the radiator cap then he has the correct equipment to check system pressures right?
Add to this that if the rads you or he are supplying may be faulty might it be a good idea to pressure check the rad using his equipment to see if a new one can sustain at least 13psi before it is fitted? A new rad should easily hold well over 25 psi and probably more. Have you considered for a moment why your heater rad (same construction) that is also subjected to this same pressure and is probably a damn sight older/worn has not burst inside the car yet why?
regards
Dave
None of this sounds good.
So let me see if I understand:
Hose leaks, they, your wrench replaces it--you pick up the truck drive it for, one mile, ten miles, a hundred miles then radiator has catastrophic failure?
They put a second new one in-it blows again after how long this time?
Then they put a third one in and it blows after how long?
"Mechanic" then puts on a head gasket, you start driving the truck and a fourth radiator blows? Now they want to condemn the block?
Hummm...sounds to me like a guessing game someone is playing...with your money!
I'd suggest the wrench consult his crystal ball for what to put on next.
But yeah, radiators do not just explode man...the radiator cap will release the pressure.
Keep us posted on what your final "fix" ends up being but something is very wrong here.
So let me see if I understand:
Hose leaks, they, your wrench replaces it--you pick up the truck drive it for, one mile, ten miles, a hundred miles then radiator has catastrophic failure?
They put a second new one in-it blows again after how long this time?
Then they put a third one in and it blows after how long?
"Mechanic" then puts on a head gasket, you start driving the truck and a fourth radiator blows? Now they want to condemn the block?
Hummm...sounds to me like a guessing game someone is playing...with your money!
I'd suggest the wrench consult his crystal ball for what to put on next.
But yeah, radiators do not just explode man...the radiator cap will release the pressure.
Keep us posted on what your final "fix" ends up being but something is very wrong here.
Find a new mechanic that knows what he's doing? jk I would just check all the cooling parts. Radiator cap,thermostat,hoses,(is it overheating?) do a flush, (maybe your running more water then coolant?)
I would definitely do a flush. Just my 2 cents. good luck and i hope you come back to inform on how u solve the plm.
sean
I would definitely do a flush. Just my 2 cents. good luck and i hope you come back to inform on how u solve the plm.
sean
