Ok goddit thanks !
2UZ swap into my 78 '40
- Thread starter IH8PVMT
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Ok goddit thanks !
Just add some Booby Long upgrades to it.
Thanks for the info it want be long before I get to start on mine. Keep letting us know what works and does not.
The Donor Vehicle:
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Wow, looks good! I'm surprised really at how well the 2UZ settles in there, it seems like such a big motor out of the truck. Mine is sitting in front of my '72 right now that still has the F engine in it and it looks like there's no way the 2UZ will fit.
I'm just rounding up my engine parts, bought a SC400 rear sump pan and what was supposed to be a SC400 oil filter mount (it's off a different Lexus, it puts the filter further back towards the firewall on what looks like a 30 deg angle). I see your housing isn't on the engine yet, I was wondering if you can get the filter off especially with the cooler attached, it looks like there isn't much room. I was wondering if a 2UZ equipped 4runner housing would work best, the motor must be tight to the frame in those.
I see you're using a 60 series power steering box. I bought one for mine and will be doing that conversion too. Which steering linkage did you use to get to the box? FJ60 parts? I intend on running lines from the 2UZ steering pump, where do you think is the best place to get metric lines and fittings? I'm certain it will take custom lines, the fittings won't be the same on each end I don't think.
Seeing your Cruiser go together makes me want to get rolling on mine. I'm definitely looking forward to doing my build thread.
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- Thread starter
- #46
I am planning on running a remote oil filter setup, so as to not hassle with trying to find something to fit in what limited room I do have on the front of the motor.
Also, this particular motor came out of a 4Runner, so this oil filter setup will not work either.
I utilized FJ60 parts to complete my PS conversion..although the draglink I ordered from someone....can't remember whom (maybe Bret will chime in)...it is a heavier duty version on the FJ60 parts...and I have yet to bend it! Bret runs the same DL with his hydroassist, so I know it is tough.
One thing to do is to make sure you fit your 2uz with your stock fenders...that way you know what, if anything, you will have to clearence to make this motor fit. I know it is somewhat tight with the Metal Tech fenders I have on there now, so you very well may have to trim the stock fenders...especially in the area of the PS pump on the 2uz.
As far as hydro lines, we found a place local that had metric fittings but you can also DIY. I will ping Bret to see if he will link the place where he got his metric fittings from when he ported his steering box for the hydroassist.
- Thread starter
- #47
Since the motor is now located, I moved onto the inevitable...the wiring. I have the complete FSM for the ECU that I am using with this motor/trans combo. In my case, it is the '03-'04 Tundra.
I have finished pinning out the complete ECU, to include the misc. wiring harness that accompanied the main engine harness (on the pass. side). This harness includes the 3 OEM connectors feeding the ECU from the motor and trans. The other 2 remaining connectors (to the ECU) come from the driver's side. I have also pinned out those as well.
I plan on running a seperate fuse/relay block for the motor and trans. This way it would be easier to diagnose a potential problem since it will be seperated from the OEM harness. I will have to 'tap' into the OEM harness for some connections (ex. brake switch for the ECU), but other than the occasional onesy-twosy connections, I will have 2 seperate looms.
Here are a few pics of the wiring to the ECU from the motor/trans. It is somewhat overwhelming, if viewed as a whole, but when broken down to individual circuits, it gets manageable. Just like with any other thread concerning wiring, I have dubbed it "Medusa"!! Also, I have made the harness for my DBW pedal that connects directly to the ECU, I will take pics of that at a later date. I will utilize some WeatherPak connectors when I can, so as to try to protect the wiring/connections, due to the fact that I run a soft top here in Florida and it may occasionally get wet or be exposed to the elements.
If anyone should require additional pics, let me know and I can see if I can get them posted up.
V/r,
IH8PVMT
I have finished pinning out the complete ECU, to include the misc. wiring harness that accompanied the main engine harness (on the pass. side). This harness includes the 3 OEM connectors feeding the ECU from the motor and trans. The other 2 remaining connectors (to the ECU) come from the driver's side. I have also pinned out those as well.
I plan on running a seperate fuse/relay block for the motor and trans. This way it would be easier to diagnose a potential problem since it will be seperated from the OEM harness. I will have to 'tap' into the OEM harness for some connections (ex. brake switch for the ECU), but other than the occasional onesy-twosy connections, I will have 2 seperate looms.
Here are a few pics of the wiring to the ECU from the motor/trans. It is somewhat overwhelming, if viewed as a whole, but when broken down to individual circuits, it gets manageable. Just like with any other thread concerning wiring, I have dubbed it "Medusa"!! Also, I have made the harness for my DBW pedal that connects directly to the ECU, I will take pics of that at a later date. I will utilize some WeatherPak connectors when I can, so as to try to protect the wiring/connections, due to the fact that I run a soft top here in Florida and it may occasionally get wet or be exposed to the elements.
If anyone should require additional pics, let me know and I can see if I can get them posted up.
V/r,
IH8PVMT
IH8PVMT said:
If you could post up your source for metric fittings that would be greatly appreciated.
As far as fitment of the 2UZ with stock fenders it should go. There are a few that have been done with no trimming required, so hopefully it works out. I'm interested to see your remote oil filter mount. I have no idea where to start looking for those parts, but it sounds like the best option.
We got the adapters from a local hydraulic shop and made our own lines. The lines are very easy to make, but the parts aren't cheap. The benefit is you can reuse the ends if you damage a line somehow.
As far as tie rods and drag links go I have a Bullet Proof steering setup using hiems, for IH8PVMNT I think we went with FJ60/FJ80 ends with a piece of tube from Marlin tapped for the TRE's. It has been awhile but I thought we used a shim in the pitman arm of the 60 box to use the TRE.
If we can't find a remote mount that works we may just make one.
As far as tie rods and drag links go I have a Bullet Proof steering setup using hiems, for IH8PVMNT I think we went with FJ60/FJ80 ends with a piece of tube from Marlin tapped for the TRE's. It has been awhile but I thought we used a shim in the pitman arm of the 60 box to use the TRE.
If we can't find a remote mount that works we may just make one.
Bret said:
Search on Google turns an oil filter relocation filter kit up pretty quick, these guys make a model specific kit, this one's for an '02.
http://www.drivewire.com/vehicle/2002-toyota-tundra/oil-filter-relocation/
It looks like the round end threads on the stock filter location and the lines run up to the remote mount. I've read that it's wise to have the filter at the same height as the stock filter to avoid oil drain back. Sounds like it makes sense.
- Thread starter
- #51
I appreciate the link, just ordered the kit for my application. Will let you know how it works out when it gets here.
On the issue of the PS conversion, IIRC, I think I used FJ80 TRE's with a pitman arm spacer from Slee Offroad. It is just a small conical spacer that allows proper fitment of the FJ80 TRE into the FJ60 Pitman arm.
On the issue of the PS conversion, IIRC, I think I used FJ80 TRE's with a pitman arm spacer from Slee Offroad. It is just a small conical spacer that allows proper fitment of the FJ80 TRE into the FJ60 Pitman arm.
So, I read through this a few times to make sure I didnt miss it - but are you running a 2wd or a 4wd transmission? I thought that this kit from Marlin would work with a 4wd trans:
2000-2004 2UZ-FE 4.7-liter V8 drivetrains | Marlin Crawler, Inc.
The adapter you are running is the pre-runner adapter correct?
PreRunner Adapter Kit | Inchworm Gear
- Thread starter
- #53
Sorry for the confusion...I am running the a340e, 2wd auto trans and am utilizing the Inchworm Pre-runner adapter kit.
The factory 4wd (a340f) is driverside drop (front), so to try and keep this simple, I opted for the 2wd trans and Inchworm adapter so as to not have to mess with my front axle...other then lengthening my front DS.
As for the rear, I am using a Toyota hybrid rear axle (LC center with mini outers) to line up correctly, since the output will be centered (due to using the gear driven mini xfer case). Make sense?
So my drivetrain looks like this..2uz>a340e>Inchworm adapter>mini transfer case (passenger drop for the front & center output for the rear).
Hope that clears up the confusion.
The factory 4wd (a340f) is driverside drop (front), so to try and keep this simple, I opted for the 2wd trans and Inchworm adapter so as to not have to mess with my front axle...other then lengthening my front DS.
As for the rear, I am using a Toyota hybrid rear axle (LC center with mini outers) to line up correctly, since the output will be centered (due to using the gear driven mini xfer case). Make sense?
So my drivetrain looks like this..2uz>a340e>Inchworm adapter>mini transfer case (passenger drop for the front & center output for the rear).
Hope that clears up the confusion.
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- Thread starter
- #54
@Rusty,
You would be correct in your description of the relocation kit. This will give you the room to relocate the filter elsewhere, due to the frame narrowing in the front of the 40. I will probably mount mine on the fender support or further back on the frame rails. FYI, the kit provides you with roughly 28" of hose, so there is ample room to mount the filter bracket. You could also lengthen the lines if needed (if you wanted to mount it back on the firewall). Thanks again for the link.
You would be correct in your description of the relocation kit. This will give you the room to relocate the filter elsewhere, due to the frame narrowing in the front of the 40. I will probably mount mine on the fender support or further back on the frame rails. FYI, the kit provides you with roughly 28" of hose, so there is ample room to mount the filter bracket. You could also lengthen the lines if needed (if you wanted to mount it back on the firewall). Thanks again for the link.
IH8PVMT said:
Glad it worked out, I might have to pick one up then too.
I think we are on the downhill side of the wiring. (I say we but Greg is doing most of the work). We are isolating as much of the 4.7 wiring from the stock 40 wires as possible. We have one wire from the ignition to feed switched power to relays, same for the start signal for the ECM. One thing we haven't figured out yet is the VSS. It looks like the VSS has 2 wires coming off of it and they feed a amplifier before going to the gauge cluster then on to the ECM. We are hoping the tone ring in the transmission will feed direct to the ECM. Anybody know?
Once you wade around in the schematics for awhile and start labeling things it starts to make a lot more sense and is far less imposing. Of course it isn't running yet either,.. hope to bump it over within a few days.
Once you wade around in the schematics for awhile and start labeling things it starts to make a lot more sense and is far less imposing. Of course it isn't running yet either,.. hope to bump it over within a few days.
Identifying all the pins from and to the ECM and where they go to and come from.
We started the review last night verifying power and signal connections from the schematic versus how we wired it. Making sure what power is switched versus constant, making sure signals make it back to the ECM from brakes, ign, start etc.
Fuel pump should be here in a day or two, need to figure out (or just try) the tone ring signal from the transmission without going through the stock gauge cluster. Need a fuel pump resistor, MAF, and a couple O2 sensors, need to get a OBD connector, a few odds and ends but looking promising.
We ended up getting a 12 circuit fuse block from West Marine to seperate "new power" from the stock harness, that way the ECM will have a dedicated power and ground seperate from the old harness. Using 30A relays to feed Injectors and coils, fuel pump etc. So far it doesn't really look too bad.. The ECM willl be under the glovebox, relays on the side of the glovve box with enough extra harness to drop the whole deal and hold in your lap for testing or troubleshooting.
Hopefully Greg will post a couple pics of the almost finished product.
We started the review last night verifying power and signal connections from the schematic versus how we wired it. Making sure what power is switched versus constant, making sure signals make it back to the ECM from brakes, ign, start etc.
Fuel pump should be here in a day or two, need to figure out (or just try) the tone ring signal from the transmission without going through the stock gauge cluster. Need a fuel pump resistor, MAF, and a couple O2 sensors, need to get a OBD connector, a few odds and ends but looking promising.
We ended up getting a 12 circuit fuse block from West Marine to seperate "new power" from the stock harness, that way the ECM will have a dedicated power and ground seperate from the old harness. Using 30A relays to feed Injectors and coils, fuel pump etc. So far it doesn't really look too bad.. The ECM willl be under the glovebox, relays on the side of the glovve box with enough extra harness to drop the whole deal and hold in your lap for testing or troubleshooting.
Hopefully Greg will post a couple pics of the almost finished product.
I was wondering about the VSS as well. I'm not sure what the ECM does with this signal, I think that it plays a part in the logic of the transmission control, and as far as I know other signals such as the brake light signal (unlocks torque converter and cancels cruise control) should be redundant for me using a manual transmission, so long as a lack of these signals doesn't cause the engine to go into "limp mode".
Looking at my '02 Tundra EWD manual, it's not clear if the signal is altered by the gauge cluster, I'd think that it isn't, I can't see why, it must be a simple pulse signal coming off the VSS sensor. I don't have the service manual yet (I'm going to buy one, I think it's worth having) it might specify how the VSS signal is handled in a trouble shooting section. One thing I didn't see in my EWD is a signal amplifier, it looks as though the VSS plugs into the gauge cluster with the two wires you mention.
Can't wait to hear how the first start up goes, I'm a long way off from that but I've got all my drive line parts now (H55F, '86 FJ60 split t-case with park brake assembly), just waiting to hear back from Dellow about my bell housing and clutch kit, then I can start my own build thread. I'll definitely reference your thread, great info so far.
