2UZ swap into my 78 '40

[UZJ40]

There are a lot of guys running this motor with no ac compressor, so I don't think there will be a problem.

Why do you not want to put your battery inside? That's my plan... cleans up the engine bay

 

[John Stw]

Can we get more pics?
What trans adapter to mini case did you use, the auto/ v-6 23 splin adapter?

 

[Rusty]

There are a lot of guys running this motor with no ac compressor, so I don't think there will be a problem.

Why do you not want to put your battery inside? That's my plan... cleans up the engine bay

I bought the belt that the OP has on his 2UZ, I'll try it to see if it works, but like you say I know quite a few people have used this belt with its lesser fan pulley contact arc, so it must work. It not then it would be easy enough to fab up an idler pulley.

I guess I could ask the rhetorical question, why would you want to put your battery inside? I'd rather have a more cluttered engine bay than have a battery stuffed somewhere inside the passenger cabin. On the earlier 40 series (mine's an early '72) you have to remember the gas tank is already inside the cab under the passenger seat and there's a tool box under the driver's. I don't really want the battery behind the seat or anywhere else in the rear passenger area. Batteries are hydrogen off gassing, nasty, heavy acid filled boxes, if it were to fail somehow, no matter how remote, I'd prefer it do that in the engine bay.

I think there should be enough room on the passenger's side of the engine bay somewhere, the only thing is that the 2UZ is a big motor compared to a Chevy V8 so it will be tight. I was just wondering where the OP was going to place his that's all, but of course he has tube fenders so he will have more room to place it in the engine bay if he chooses.

 

[Bret]

I believe he is going to leave the battery under the drivers seat. The risk of having hydrogen etc. in the passenger compartment with batteries like the Die Hard Platinums or Odyssy's should be very low. With the tube fenders and firewall already painted I don't think he will want to cut into the paint anyways. The wires are already ran as well. Could also put a battery disconnect switch in the cab for a little theft security.

He has kept the auto that came with the engine, for the adapter I thought he got it from Inchworm.

I will try to get a hold of him and see if he can't chime in.

 

[IH8PVMT]

Can we get more pics?
What trans adapter to mini case did you use, the auto/ v-6 23 splin adapter?

Firstly, let me apologize for not updating as this progressed...in all honesty, just forgot about it! Sorry folks..

Ok, as for the trans adapter...I thought I would get off easy using the Marlin adapter...not so! Totally different adapter for a totally different trans!

The only adapter (that I know of) is made by Inchworm Gear...and is double the $$ of the Marlin adapter. The kit is pretty much straight forward and is a no-brainer. Bret is correct in saying the test will be if the xfer case will hold up to what the 2UZ has to offer. I, myself, don't get crazy out on the trails but also understand that it only takes too much of the right foot to ruin your day. I'll post pics here in a few after I get my Silver Star Membership...

 

[IH8PVMT]

Here is the adapter from Inchworm..

 

[IH8PVMT]

I bought the belt that the OP has on his 2UZ, I'll try it to see if it works, but like you say I know quite a few people have used this belt with its lesser fan pulley contact arc, so it must work. It not then it would be easy enough to fab up an idler pulley.

I guess I could ask the rhetorical question, why would you want to put your battery inside? I'd rather have a more cluttered engine bay than have a battery stuffed somewhere inside the passenger cabin. On the earlier 40 series (mine's an early '72) you have to remember the gas tank is already inside the cab under the passenger seat and there's a tool box under the driver's. I don't really want the battery behind the seat or anywhere else in the rear passenger area. Batteries are hydrogen off gassing, nasty, heavy acid filled boxes, if it were to fail somehow, no matter how remote, I'd prefer it do that in the engine bay.

I think there should be enough room on the passenger's side of the engine bay somewhere, the only thing is that the 2UZ is a big motor compared to a Chevy V8 so it will be tight. I was just wondering where the OP was going to place his that's all, but of course he has tube fenders so he will have more room to place it in the engine bay if he chooses.

As for the battery placement, I could have very well left it in the engine bay when I had the SBC...however, the 2UZ is quite a bit bigger (overall) then the SBC, so I decided to mount them inside. I also am running different seats, actually they are out of a '02 Camry, so the brackets are higher then factory and gives me more foot room.

Also, with the Metal-Tech fenders, I greatly reduced the possible mounting locations for whatever! Not to mention, it provides much more air flow to try and solve the ever-so-present problem of overheating that many of us run into. Even with my aluminum 4-core racing radiator...the temp does still rise but not near as bad as with the stock fenders.

Back to the battery...I ran all power wires underneath and inside the framerail. They terminate into a mil-spec buss-bar, then out to whatever..starter, alternator, winch, etc. It is much easier to pull or run a 2ft wire from the buss-bar than it is to run it from inside the cab of the truck. I also have upgraded the fuse block to spade fuses and added more fuse locations for future upgrades.

 

[IH8PVMT]

Interesting, I just bought a 2UZ for my '72 FJ40, it came out of a '02 Tundra so it has the front oil sump which I thought would not work well for clearing the front axle.

It sounds like your rear sump doesn't look like it will work?

Mine is also a front sump, sorry for the mistake in the initial description. However, your engine placement will dictate if it is a problem. I have also heard that the oil pan out of a T-100 will work...and I think it is a rear sump. IIRC, you also have to change the oil pickup on the 2UZ to the T-100 to be able to utilize the rear sump pan.

I know that this is an option on the 1uz swaps for 4rnrs/minis but I am not 100% positive either. Being over here for so long, I have not a clue, nor can I go and crawl under one to make sure either. I know there are other options but I am planning on modifying my current pan to clearance my front driveshaft...just as an insurance policy. It looks to clear now but with very minor mods, it will not be a problem.

Oh, before I forget, you will have to run a remote oil filter for the swap..the OEM filter will hit on the front driver framerail! Looks to be an easy fix but just haven't tackled that one yet.

 

[IH8PVMT]

I agree... I'm just trying to figure out what I want to do for the trans and t/c. I kind of want to do the stock 100 series automatic, but I'm worried it might be too long. Definitely doing an earlier model (without VVTi and drive-by-wire) when I do it.

I will agree that it is a long powertrain but seeming that I have to remove the stock axle to install the hybrid, I have 2 options:

1. Do an FJ60 spring swap (which will give me a little more room)

OR

2. Go ahead and 4-link the rear w/coils...then the axle placement is where ever I want to put it...I wouldn't mind stretching the wheelbase a tad. I do understand that I will have to trim the rear tub...wouldn't really bother me since I have already folded the rear corners of the wheel well...on both sides! Atleast they match!

 

[IH8PVMT]

Sorry, more of this is coming back to me since I have started to update things....

Yes, you DO NOT want the 2UZ w/VVTI....is a wiring nightmare! Non-VVTI is the way to go! Also, when I pulled parts for my swap out of an '01 Tundra, the truck was equipped with a 100% mechanical throttle...and was not DBW. I was lucky enough to find a DBW pedal from a local dealer BUT was not given a receipt because of the gas pedal issues that Toyota had...it was a used throttle when I bought it.

I have since pinned out about 95% of the wiring for the harness. But, I have a buddy of mine that runs a buggy with a 2UZ installed, so will and can post info when I finally am home and this thing is wired. I will also run a seperate fuse block for the engine/trans...that way it is easier to diagnose any issues that should arise. Hope this helps.

Should you have any questions, please ask...

 

[UZJ40]

Do you have a link to your other thread? Id love to see more pictures...

 

[IH8PVMT]

It was not at all that much more informational...I have since deleted it. What pics are you after? Anything in particular? I will try to help where I can..although I am currently still here in Iraq. Let me know and will see if I don't have it here with me or it may be possible to get pics of something specific that you may be after.... I do apologize!

 

[rma1]

Yea more pics would be great .. clearance of the engine oil pan and front diff , How much room is in the back .. from the transfer case to rear diff.

That adapter you posted is inchworms prerunner adapter .
and the oil pan...its not the t-100 pan you would need its the sc400 rear sump pan off the 1uz. and the oil filter housing may work also off the same car sc400.
how long is the whole assembly engine to transfer case?
the 1uz/a340/prerunner adapter /toyota gear case is roughly 66" long
just wondering how much longer the 2uz setup is, if any.
sc400 oil filter housing on the left.. brings it forward instead of outward

heres what it looks like on the 1st gen 4runner .. and thats a front sump 1uz out of a ls400

 

[Rusty]

Sorry, more of this is coming back to me since I have started to update things....

Yes, you DO NOT want the 2UZ w/VVTI....is a wiring nightmare! Non-VVTI is the way to go! Also, when I pulled parts for my swap out of an '01 Tundra, the truck was equipped with a 100% mechanical throttle...and was not DBW. I was lucky enough to find a DBW pedal from a local dealer BUT was not given a receipt because of the gas pedal issues that Toyota had...it was a used throttle when I bought it.

I have since pinned out about 95% of the wiring for the harness. But, I have a buddy of mine that runs a buggy with a 2UZ installed, so will and can post info when I finally am home and this thing is wired. I will also run a seperate fuse block for the engine/trans...that way it is easier to diagnose any issues that should arise. Hope this helps.

Should you have any questions, please ask...

When I bought my motor I drove out to see it thinking it was an '06 VVTi, in the end it turned out that the seller didn't know what year it was, he was selling the motor for a friend. I was a little disappointed that it wasn't VVTi at the time, but for $500 including ECU, harness, radiator and fuel pump I couldn't pass it up especially after I verified the 40K miles, I managed to get the VIN off the donor.

In the end I was glad, because in addition to the wiring grief that you mention you also have to make sure you have the ignition switch with the original electronic key or your up $hit creek without a paddle, it's a major pain to get the engine running without it.

 

[Rusty]

I will agree that it is a long powertrain but seeming that I have to remove the stock axle to install the hybrid, I have 2 options:

1. Do an FJ60 spring swap (which will give me a little more room)

OR

2. Go ahead and 4-link the rear w/coils...then the axle placement is where ever I want to put it...I wouldn't mind stretching the wheelbase a tad. I do understand that I will have to trim the rear tub...wouldn't really bother me since I have already folded the rear corners of the wheel well...on both sides! Atleast they match!

I've decided on running an H55F behind the 2UZ using a Dellow conversion bell housing out of Australia. The 1UZ-FE uses the same block as the 2UZ-FE so the bell housing is the same, the 1UZ-FE is a common engine to hot rod all kinds of vehicles in Australia so you can get a kit to mate up to just about anything. It'll be a bit of work to get it shipped and sorted out but I really wanted a manual and I'm familiar with the H55F.

The auto tranny is a good choice and it should be fairly "plug and play" since the 2UZ's ECU controls the trans too, but it will be long in a 40 series.

 

[Rusty]

Yea more pics would be great .. clearance of the engine oil pan and front diff , How much room is in the back .. from the transfer case to rear diff.

and the oil pan...its not the t-100 pan you would need its the sc400 rear sump pan off the 1uz.

I think that the oil pan in the 100 series 2UZ powered Cruiser is rear sump as well, so that should work.

 

[tmarx]

I've decided on running an H55F behind the 2UZ using a Dellow conversion bell housing out of Australia. The 1UZ-FE uses the same block as the 2UZ-FE so the bell housing is the same, the 1UZ-FE is a common engine to hot rod all kinds of vehicles in Australia so you can get a kit to mate up to just about anything. It'll be a bit of work to get it shipped and sorted out but I really wanted a manual and I'm familiar with the H55F.

The auto tranny is a good choice and it should be fairly "plug and play" since the 2UZ's ECU controls the trans too, but it will be long in a 40 series.

Was your H55F mated to a 3B/2F/1HZ/1Hd-t ? I have a H55F meted to a 3B and have heard it's belhousing is the same as the H55F belhousing found when mated to a 1hz ? Sorry for the highjack and questions

 

[Rusty]

Was your H55F mated to a 3B/2F/1HZ/1Hd-t ? I have a H55F meted to a 3B and have heard it's belhousing is the same as the H55F belhousing found when mated to a 1hz ? Sorry for the highjack and questions

I'm not sure what the H55F fits, I had one in my 2H powered HJ60 and I liked it. The H55F is available here in North America so it makes sense for me to use one. The other option for me is to get an OEM bell housing, flywheel and clutch from Australia for an H151F. I'm exploring that route right now though the H151F is not commonly available in Canada, I'd have to get one shipped from Australia along with the other transmission parts.

 

[tmarx]

So the Bedllhousing from a H151F (as found when mated to the 4,5L 1FZ-FE motor) vwill bolt onto the H55F and the 1UZ/2UZ without the need for adapters ? That would be a huge help for me !

 

[Rusty]

So the Bedllhousing from a H151F (as found when mated to the 4,5L 1FZ-FE motor) vwill bolt onto the H55F and the 1UZ/2UZ without the need for adapters ? That would be a huge help for me !

To clarify, I'm either going to buy an H151F from Australia that bolts to my 2UZ-FE, or a Dellow adapter kit, also from Australia, that will fit an H55F to my 2UZ-FE. I don't have a transmission yet, I'll decide on which route I'm going to go depending on cost/availability.

The 1UZ/2UZ and 1FZ-FE don't share the same bell housing pattern, of that I'm quite certain.