this looks fun
2uz 40th anniv 80 - HELP
- Thread starter jason89i
- Start date
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this looks fun- Thread starter
- #22
took the summer off. back in the saddle. time to get this rig up and running.
I edited the first post.
leak detection pump assembly wired and plugged in.
air injection driver wired.
air pump wired.
ooooh. i give up.
jason
I edited the first post.
leak detection pump assembly wired and plugged in.
air injection driver wired.
air pump wired.
ooooh. i give up.
jason
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OBD scanner needs:
BAT - Power
TC - pink/black A(23)
CANL -white B(34)
CANH - black B(33)
CG - ground
SG - ground
Make sure you got it wired to the OBDII port as well.
Then for power for the ECU, make sure you have power at:
IGSW - black/orange A(9)
BATT - black/red A(3)
+BM - Green/yellow A(7)
+B,+B2 - white/blue A(1),A(2)
BAT - Power
TC - pink/black A(23)
CANL -white B(34)
CANH - black B(33)
CG - ground
SG - ground
Make sure you got it wired to the OBDII port as well.
Then for power for the ECU, make sure you have power at:
IGSW - black/orange A(9)
BATT - black/red A(3)
+BM - Green/yellow A(7)
+B,+B2 - white/blue A(1),A(2)
- Thread starter
- #24
confirmed. Still nothing.
here are a few exerpts from my notes.
also have connectors for 97LC: IH1, IH2, E7(D)
and connectors for the 05TUNDRA: IE1, J28, EB2, E3(A), E4(B), D6, A32, A33, L4
I dont want to post them all up here to start a shooting gallery, or for someone else to follow my mistakes. but, here are the two in question.....
here are a few exerpts from my notes.
also have connectors for 97LC: IH1, IH2, E7(D)
and connectors for the 05TUNDRA: IE1, J28, EB2, E3(A), E4(B), D6, A32, A33, L4
I dont want to post them all up here to start a shooting gallery, or for someone else to follow my mistakes. but, here are the two in question.....
ToyotaDon
I am here
Where's E5? Terminal 1 of E5 should be a brown wire that is the main ground for the ECM.
Also, here's an excerpt from the RM:
I can't remember if you said you have the RM (FSM), but you really should be checking the diagram for "Terminals of ECM." My reference shows it starting on page DI-327. Use that to make sure you have not only power in the right places, but ground as well.
I know you have the stuff listed for sale now, and if I had the cash, I'd totally be wanting to do this. But, I'd recommend you don't give up now, it seems like it has to be something simple.
Also, here's an excerpt from the RM:
I can't remember if you said you have the RM (FSM), but you really should be checking the diagram for "Terminals of ECM." My reference shows it starting on page DI-327. Use that to make sure you have not only power in the right places, but ground as well.
I know you have the stuff listed for sale now, and if I had the cash, I'd totally be wanting to do this. But, I'd recommend you don't give up now, it seems like it has to be something simple.
- Thread starter
- #26
all confirmed. Yet no datalink connectivity.
M-REL is sending out power when the dme is turned on. (DME is powering up. )
Datalink is powerd up, wired correctly to dme, continuity checked.
confirmed power at dme:
E3-1, E3-2, E3-3, E3-7, E3-9
confirmed power at IE1:
IE1-5, IE1-13, IE1-15, IE1-22
confirmed gound (continuity to block):
E5-1, E6-3, E6-4, E6-6, E6-7, E7-6, E7-7.
confirmed gound (continuity to block):
IE1-3, IE1-14, IE1-19, IE1-20, IE1-25
I usually do NOT know when to call it quits. But this one has gotten the better of me.
Gentleman, i am pulling the plug.
Jason
M-REL is sending out power when the dme is turned on. (DME is powering up. )
Datalink is powerd up, wired correctly to dme, continuity checked.
confirmed power at dme:
E3-1, E3-2, E3-3, E3-7, E3-9
confirmed power at IE1:
IE1-5, IE1-13, IE1-15, IE1-22
confirmed gound (continuity to block):
E5-1, E6-3, E6-4, E6-6, E6-7, E7-6, E7-7.
confirmed gound (continuity to block):
IE1-3, IE1-14, IE1-19, IE1-20, IE1-25
I usually do NOT know when to call it quits. But this one has gotten the better of me.
Gentleman, i am pulling the plug.
Jason
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if you had someone local, that knows wiring, have them double check all the connections. Somtimes you are just so used to seeing something that your brian can't tell the difference. A nice fresh set of eyes can sometimes do the trick.
Just a couple weeks ago I was helping someone over text messages why he kept getting TPS and AFM codes after he hooked up his AFC NEO. He figured his AFM was bad, and I told him for days it was his wiring. I double, triple and quadruple checked his wiring, and every time he came back, he said it was good.
I finally went over to his house after a week, and found the problem in about 30 seconds. He had wired up his AFC to the wrong "green" wire. He said he thought it was the correct pin, but didn't pay enough attention because he was 100% sure it was the correct green wire.
Is there anyway you could get a good quality picture of your OBDII connector, and the A and B connectors on the ECU?
Just a couple weeks ago I was helping someone over text messages why he kept getting TPS and AFM codes after he hooked up his AFC NEO. He figured his AFM was bad, and I told him for days it was his wiring. I double, triple and quadruple checked his wiring, and every time he came back, he said it was good.
I finally went over to his house after a week, and found the problem in about 30 seconds. He had wired up his AFC to the wrong "green" wire. He said he thought it was the correct pin, but didn't pay enough attention because he was 100% sure it was the correct green wire.
Is there anyway you could get a good quality picture of your OBDII connector, and the A and B connectors on the ECU?
See what happens when you build one of these that runs !
I've been so busy driving mine I hardly ever get on here.
Jason ill respond to your PM
I've been so busy driving mine I hardly ever get on here.
Jason ill respond to your PM
- Thread starter
- #30
quick update. truck has been up and running for a week or two.
i pulled the vvti motor and just dumbed down the electronics.
04 2uz 4.7l v8 (non-vvti) with 20k miles.
01 wiring harness / electronics
had to buy 01 t-body.
reworked headers..... again as the vvti ones are different.
had to buy an a343f (as i gave away my old one....
) and followed toojayzee's info to modify it. pulled the tundra a340 tranny and swappped over the valve body, planitary and speed sensor. its not downshifting correctly yet, but i am pretty sure its missing the vehicle speed signal....... )i believe i also figured out why i had trouble with the vvti electronics. i missed the FC terminal that is used in conjunction with the FPR to control the fuel pump. made the same mistake with this swap..... i was just a little more ditermined.
if anyone wants a sweet deal on the vvti 2uz and matching a750f 5speed auto...... its up for grabs.
truck is at home getting cleaned, tidied up and receiving a new windshield.
cheers, jason
Thats good news man 
Got photos for us ?
Do you think the FC is what prevented you from having a sucessfull vvti swap ?
I had mine hooked up properly, but couldnt get it to work with the old C/OPN circuit so I used all the tunra relays and it works awesome. I can even hear it click on and off depending on fuel consumption. Directly linked to my right foot
to you.
I have to say that out of all my 30+ swap projects, this has been my favorite by a long shot.
I want to do a TRD charged 5.7 FJ80 next
Got photos for us ?Do you think the FC is what prevented you from having a sucessfull vvti swap ?
I had mine hooked up properly, but couldnt get it to work with the old C/OPN circuit so I used all the tunra relays and it works awesome. I can even hear it click on and off depending on fuel consumption. Directly linked to my right foot
to you.I have to say that out of all my 30+ swap projects, this has been my favorite by a long shot.
I want to do a TRD charged 5.7 FJ80 next
- Thread starter
- #32
no photo's yet. give me a week or two.
i was ditermined to bring it home from the shop. put 400 miles on it the first couple days. now its parked, need to tidy it up a bit. I still have the dme to mount and do a couple small things.
30+ swaps. THAT is impressive. you are a maniac.
This will be a "close second" to favorite swaps. Dont get me wrong, i love hitting the trails. this will be a great family vacation rig. its just that i enjoy tearing up the track a little more. over 8k rpm, 2400lbs, 325rwhp (N/A) ..... im not sure if its a disease or addiction.
cheers, jason
i was ditermined to bring it home from the shop. put 400 miles on it the first couple days. now its parked, need to tidy it up a bit. I still have the dme to mount and do a couple small things.
30+ swaps. THAT is impressive. you are a maniac.
This will be a "close second" to favorite swaps. Dont get me wrong, i love hitting the trails. this will be a great family vacation rig. its just that i enjoy tearing up the track a little more. over 8k rpm, 2400lbs, 325rwhp (N/A) ..... im not sure if its a disease or addiction.
cheers, jason
When I say swaps im refering to putting the wrong motor in the right vechicle. Plenty of other straight swap for swap type of stuff, but ive been doing this for around 20 years so its not that impressive. Or so I tell myself.
I helped a friend do a S50B32 E46 M3 engine into an 84' 325e.
Looks like yours is a real steel fender E36 Em3 ? Sick
Right now im in the process of doing a built 2JZ-GTE swap into my 94' GS300. Oddly enough Superrunner Rob did the same swap. If you didnt know better, you would swear im a copy cat. lol
I preffer to say that great minds think alike.
Back on track - cant wait to see the photos.
Congrats on getting it running. Glad you didn't drop the whole project.
toojay - Haha, yeah, pretty funny. Just great vehicles to work with. Good platforms with better engines. I lost count of how many engine swaps(different motor) over the last 18 years since my first one. I have done 6 this year alone and already have 3 lined up for next year before spring hits. Odly enough, I have only done probably less than 5 swaps in my lifetime that was just a simple replacement motor. I hate fixing things just to be fixed, such a waste of time.
BTW - Jason, probably not the FC connector as you could not connect with the scanner. I too have a VVTI motor I need to get rid of from my LC swap. Bad head, just needs to get it replaced. I don't ever want to mess with the VVTI motor again, it adds to the complexity that doesn't need to be there. Hey, if you want to do a 5.7, I got a block I will let go for super cheap. Both heads are still good, needs one rod(I broke it on purpose.) And a line bore with oversized bearings and a crank regrind.
I think you mean e30 not e36.. also the s50b32 is from an evo e36, e46 m3 would be an s54. That motor is practically impossible to swap into anything without some SERIOUS modifications to the engine management.
....Ex bmw Tech
Great looking E30 M3!! would love to own one! That S14 is a real joy to drive!
You sir are correct. My buddy and I joked that his car was an e36 that the factory should have made.
- Thread starter
- #37
.. also the s50b32 is from an evo e36, e46 m3 would be an s54. That motor is practically impossible to swap into anything without some SERIOUS modifications to the engine management.
....Ex bmw Tech
Great looking E30 M3!! would love to own one! That S14 is a real joy to drive!
are you a bmw tech? i've had a "few" e30's and a couple e30m3's. the s14'd cars handle wonderfully. of the e30m3's.....ive had an s52b32 (us), euro s50b32, a well built 2.5l w/ alpha n, stock 2.3l s14. the s14'd cars handled so much better on the track. this last car i wanted the best of both worlds. so, i cut the fire wall and shifted an s54b32 about 4" back to help with weight transfer. its dang quick and handles great. here are some old projects..... Pictures by jason89i - Photobucket
back on topic.
need some transmission help.
symptom: from 30+mph if i slow to a stop sign, then press the gas pedal, the engine revs but it takes a second or two to engage. if the rpm's are high, it hits hard into gear. it also seems to be shifting between gears really slowly. in reverse (at 6 deg outside) it sometimes slips out of gear.
i have read some posts on line, but have zero experience with automatics. can i hook up a scanner and read what the dme is telling the transmission. can i tell somehow if it is an electrical issue, solenoid issue, clutch or torque converter? i am at a complete loss here.
i also dont have the dipstick extension.....cant tell where the "full" mark is. should the fluid go to the bottom of the valve body, or go over the valve body?
thanks guys. you have been a huge help.
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Try to fab up a dipstick extension, and keep it based on the a340/343 tube length. That will help you.
How many quarts did you add to fill it after being bone dry when you did the sensor mod for the OD sensor ?
Idk if a scanner can read that info unless a sensor went bad.
Are the connectors secure on the valve body ?
To me it sounds like you dont have enough fluid, but there are a few other things that could be wrong.
Yup, sounds like fluid is low.
OR
Speed sensor not reading correctly. As you know there are two sources. The transmission itself, and the speedometer.
You will need to get a toyota specific, or the super expensive snapon scanner to read that type of data. Or they have the cheaper PC versions, not sure which one would work best.
OR
Speed sensor not reading correctly. As you know there are two sources. The transmission itself, and the speedometer.
You will need to get a toyota specific, or the super expensive snapon scanner to read that type of data. Or they have the cheaper PC versions, not sure which one would work best.
ToyotaDon
I am here
I believe the PC versions from Mongoose will give you the same info as the Toyota scanner. It will show you both speed inputs, as well as solenoid actuation (on/off signals).
HTH
HTH
