2nd long rear broken (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Tapage

Club 4X4 Panamá
Joined
Apr 4, 2003
Threads
422
Messages
23,683
Location
Panamá
Website
www.4x4panama.com
Hardcore corner stuff .. just maybe ..

on sunday we was in a social service labor of or off road Club here in Panamá .. bringing few toys and christmas stuff for those familys that have nothing ( or not much ) for Christmas ..

As the comunity was in the mountan and we are just ending the rain season I fit my brand new chains as always ..

P1010107.jpg


Long story short .. a river .. a 80 series from a mate stuck on it, I go to help, use a strap, and after few attempts .. got it out ..

BUT ! with my second rear long broken axe ..

Thanks to my rear disk brakes I was able to get home with front traccion .. but now it's time to do something ..

I can start searching for a FF .. thought from a 60 series or 80 series .. no big dear really .. just much more work on it ..

Or I can go direct with the " only " other option that I know .. Poly performance axles ..

comments are apreciated ..

thanks !
 
FF most likely won't stop the breakage, just make it easier to deal with a broken axle.

PP rear shafts are a good option.

A 14 bolt rear or custom offset 9" would be the strong tickett..

Semi float 14 bolt or a D60 out of a Jeep truck would be a good option as well (both six lug but uinknown availability)
 
As many here I love my cruiser stuff and my last option will be swaping for a non Cruiser stuff like a 14 bolts ( that are not easy to find but doable .. )

And sure .. with a 14 bolts .. the issue not be the axles or the housing .. but buy again a locker ( or found one with already one ) gears .. and sure big tires to keep my ground clearance at 12" as I have right now ..

There is another source of cromo rears for 60 series there out of PP .. ?
 
where did it break?

other than load carrying capacity, I'd argue that a semi-float axle is stronger....it's diameter is larger across most of its length (yes, a full float is easier to mess with if it DOES break)

bet it broke again due to a bent housing....

Poly is likely your only option for a chromo rear, or step up to a different axle entirely.
 
i'm thinking about trying these folks to get some custom alloy shafts made when the need arises (and i know it will)...i think the poly shafts are too brittle or something else is wrong with them?

Dutchman Motorsports Inc.

a couple of my ridding associates have gotten shafts made by dutchman for obsolete dana 44 rear axles with good results so far.
 
where did it break?

This was my first .. ( didn't have time to open my rear ... not yet at least .. but bet the same place .. )

brokenaxle.jpg


Just out of the ARB ..

brokenaxle2.jpg



other than load carrying capacity, I'd argue that a semi-float axle is stronger....it's diameter is larger across most of its length (yes, a full float is easier to mess with if it DOES break)

bet it broke again due to a bent housing....

Poly is likely your only option for a chromo rear, or step up to a different axle entirely.

Actually I was thinking that the first one was due a bend housing .. but take some measurements and all looks good .. then ( and after 2 years ) using my Cruiser for everithing after 2 years, discard the bend housing theory ..

My ARB function fines too ..

i'm thinking about trying these folks to get some custom alloy shafts made when the need arises (and i know it will)...i think the poly shafts are too brittle or something else is wrong with them?

Dutchman Motorsports Inc.

a couple of my ridding associates have gotten shafts made by dutchman for obsolete dana 44 rear axles with good results so far.

The question is .. we can make a quote and get a reazonable price compared to PP axles .. ?

There is any complaint about PP alxes .. ?
 
I few of my hot rodder buddies use Dutchman products and swear by the company both on service and product....

I've heard mixed reviews on the PP rears... many people claim that they are not much of an improvement over the stockers especially considering the cost.
 
i know that there are some guys on here who have broken multiple poly's. some of the pics kina looked like they had shattered iirc....
 
I have the Poly performance rears and recommend them. Just looking at the way they are machined I'd say they are an improvement to spread forces and reduce stress risers. As noted above I think they would be significantly stronger than the FF's.

Not sure what it means but this past year I broke my rear ARB, however the Polyperformance axles were fine. I was running heavily loaded on the Rubicon trail with 37x14.5 Toyos MTs. The ARB was about 10 years old, fortunately, I didn't realize it was broke and drove 400 miles hone on it. ;)
 
There is a PP wrarranty .. like if I broke one I get free ( or % of original value ) replacement .. ?

Now I'm booting over 14 PSI, intercooled and water injected .. if we saw the 12H-T figures that are around 135HO and 232lb/p of Torque .. maybe I'm making something close ..
 
I can source a " cheap " 14 bolts here with already detroit on it .. it's a old rear, so maybe spend bucks in bearings and so ..

The issue it's I will have 8 bolts rear and 6 front .. and the more important thing is .. clearance !!!
 
I'd give the poly's a try . If you break one you can get it replaced then sell them . If you made a stock one last 2 years I'd say they'll last a while . I broke a 30 spline Long this summer and the poly's held up .
 
I have seen quite a few Poly rears break.

Please give specifics,
few= how manny?
How / where did they break?
what set-up? tires size, gears, locker, etc
What conditions? rocks, mud?

I ruined one of mine with loose lug nuts, yeah I know. It wallowed out the stud holes so I replaced it. When I stopped by Poly (they are in my neighborhood) and announced I broke one, They were very surprised and couldn't wait to see the failure. Of course, they were disappointed when I told the whole story.

BTW I have 1:173 crawl ratio with the 4.7 toybox, trail weight 3800lbs on the rear axle, total 6200+lbs., 37x14.5's, that's scary torque in my opinion. I try to take it easy, but sometimes.... you have to get it!
 
I don't know everyone's exact setup but this is wheeling East Coast conditions with lots of wheelspin involved. All these rigs were far from stock, all with tires 36 or larger and fully locked. I have seen everything from someone with 38s doing full throttle bouncing climbs that would snap any cruiser axle to someone with 36s not really getting it super hard, 4 in all. Yes a stock axle would have snapped sooner, no doubt.

Bottom line is these are far from unbreakable and are not a solution for many owners looking to stop rear SF axle failure.
 
What if you cut down the pass side of the new Tundra rear axle housing & have a custom shaft machined? Not sure how far along ARB is on the locker option though & also not sure about the diff gearing or lug pattern, just throwing this out there :meh: That's the closest to keeping it Toyota :rolleyes: & you get a larger R&P, 34 spline shafts, disk brakes & maybe a factory locker too IIRC.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom