2LTE Timing Belt Change Didn't Go As Planned

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So I changed out my timing belt and everything seemed to go as planned until I put it back together and started it. It ran really rough. I figured I must have slipped a tooth on the belt.

Took everything back apart today and found there was a lot of play in the belt (it seemed taught when I closed it up) and I'm afraid there may have been more than a little slippage.

Is it enough to line up all of the pulleys with their marks again and reattach the belt, or is there a way to confirm that everything's on the right cycle first? Not finding much on this on the Internet.

Feel free to tell me what a dummy I am. I've earned it.
 
Yes, interference engine.
Yes, lining timing marks times the engine. However, all pulleys don't turn at 1:1 ratio. Check the service manual for timing procedure.
However, what kind of loose are we talking here with the belt? If your belt slipped, you almost can guarantee you kissed a couple of pistons with the valves.
 
@CRSWA Did you follow the procedure in the manual to a t? It is important to rotate the engine a couple times by hand and re-check the marks before buttoning everything up. The injection pump especially likes to jump back a tooth. If the belt is loose it is also likely there is something wrong with the tensioner setup. Check the manual, make sure the spring is on there. Follow the procedure. With the pump out one tooth the motor will run, but the computer won't be able to achieve the timing it wants so it'll produce a check engine light and run rough if that is the problem. I use a mirror to check the timing marks as sometimes they are hard to see otherwise.
 
Thanks GTSSC. I missed that last step of turning the crank a couple of revolutions and I think the pump was off a tooth (I was tired and in a hurry and not thinking straight). I think I may be okay valve-wise for now. All of the slack would have been on the tensioner side of the belt.

The problem is that when I took the outer crank pulley off, I had to turn the crank counter-clockwise and all of the slack in the belt moved to the injector pump side. The timing marks are definitely misaligned, so I'm sure some slippage occurred when I turned counter-clockwise. I just don't know how much.
 
Yeah, it really looks like the cam and crank are still synched and it was the injector pump that was doing all of the slipping.
 
If that is the case, you will be fine then. Running the pump out of time doesn't actually hurt anything.
Good luck and as Nick says, follow that procedure to the letter. If you have any slack in your belt, something is amiss with the tensioner.
A timing belt should have very minimal deflection once it is tensioned. And, certainly no visible "slack"
 
Such a shame Toyota went away from fully gear driven in this regard. A lot of manufacturers were actually all gear driven up to the early 80's.

And then they realized building them to last didn't go along with making money and their is lots of money to be made with regular service maintenance. The same goes for a lot of vehicles of this era. They went away from being designed to last (marketed as such too) and went the direction of making the average person go to the dealership for maintenance. They have just got more and more complex since and as a result less and less people work on their own vehicle. The late 70's through the 80's and into the early 90's is an interesting time in automotive history.

Not meaning to derail the thread it just got me thinking. Good luck with the engine! A little faith in good karma and good vibes gets me by on things like this 80% of the time. The other 20% I got to pay & suffer!

Cheers
 
Agreed, I don't mind the extras noise from the chains. I miss timing chain or gears.

Ian's ratio is about right, 80% you skate by for reasons you can't understand and the rest are epic failures that leave you considering new hobbies.
 
Agreed, I don't mind the extras noise from the chains. I miss timing chain or gears.

Ian's ratio is about right, 80% you skate by for reasons you can't understand and the rest are epic failures that leave you considering new hobbies.

Even chains can be problematic. Case in point.....


A good friend fully rebuilt his 22RE in an 86 pickup. He went all out but I should say he paid a machine shop to do 80+% of it. They screwed up and didn't replace the timing gear guides. 22RE is chain driven but has plastic guides for the chain. He got 25,000 miles out of it before the chain wore through the guides and into the alloy case. Water and oil mixed at that point and his new motor blew up.

Chain is good but 100% gear driven is better. Just my opinion and I do love my Toyota timing belt motors too I just see the reality in it all. Money.

Cheers
 
I've only ever seen operator problems with the belt drives. Its not just the diesel Toyotas that use them. And $80 for a belt and idler kit every 100000 is nothing.
 
Bottom line: The problem appears to be the belt. I can't tension it far enough to keep the injector pump from slipping. The tensioner is working as designed, but it looks like the belt is slightly too large. I don't know if I was sent the wrong part or if it's defective. New belt has been ordered.
 
When I put my t-belt on the 2LTE, I start at the crank pulley, go to the injection pump (keeping tension to keep it in place), then to the cam pulley. The cam and crank pulleys will keep the injection pump in place. Then I do the tensioning side of the belt. Rotate a few times to check.

There is a procedure in the manual for checking your tensioner spring length. Might be worth doing that too?

Here is a picture I took this past winter when I semi-rebuilt my engine:

IMG_20180303_161253523.jpg
 
One thing that is nice about the 1HZ and 1PZ is it is about the easiest timing belt replacement I have personally seen.

On the subject of 22RE timing chains, I have done a bunch. No one that knows what they are doing uses the plastic guides. They make kits with metal guides.
 
That is immaculate. It looks like a completely new engine. What made you decide to pull it out?

Sort of a long story. Basically like all 2LTE's of the early 90's, the head cracked at one point before I owned it (in Japan). The owners kept driving it with the cracked head and were topping up the coolant with straight water. Number one problem with this is the water mixes with the diesel exhaust and creates sulfuric acid. This causes pitting in the cylinder walls. I've seen this on a number of these engines now. The second problem is the straight water leaks into the cylinder when the engine is off, and rusts the cylinder walls. Especially if the motor sits for a while, which I think mine did.

So, the Japanese owners eventually put on a new updated Toyota cylinder head, but they did a rushed and crappy job at it so the head gasket was leaking a bit in one spot. So when I got the vehicle, I pulled the head (thought it was cracked at the time, so had bought a new one), and did a really good job on the cylinder head replacement. It's then that I saw the pitting and rusting of the rear two cylinder's. This caused blow-by, and some loss of compression when the motor was cold. Was a depressing moment.

I ran it like that for five years and things did not really get worse. But it was definitely on my list to replace the short block.

This past summer I tried running 10w30 and a different brand of oil (normally I had been running rotella 15w40). I did this while towing in really extreme weather and the oil actually broke down to a water like consistency. I was relying heavily on my methanol/water injection while towing. As it turned out, my nozzle placement was really poor (too close to the intake manifold), and most of the mix was entering cylinder three, in droplet form. I had not known this before hand. Because of the large nozzle size, there was enough meth/water mix that cylinder washing occurred in #3. Cylinder washing is when fuel (water/meth in my case) washes the oil off the cylinder walls. This caused the rings to contact the cylinder wall, and my blow-by got bad very quickly. There is some pretty nasty damage on the walls of cylinder three from this. In the years of using meth/water this problem had never occurred until I ran the crappy oil. So I think it was sort of a combination that lead to the problem.

So, friend of mine had bought a rusty parts prado with a blown transmission around the time I started to figure this all out. The engine in his Prado had excellent compression and ran really clean. So I bought the short block from him. I actually took the whole engine home, and stripped it to the short block and returned all the parts I did not need back to him.

I bought all new bottom end bearings, a full new engine gasket and seal set, new water pump, t-belt kit, engine mounts, block heater etc. I pulled the motor right apart and cleaned/painted everything as I put it back together. I actually put a new turbo CHRA on at the time too. As it turned out my old turbo was fine and the crank-case pressure was actually causing the turbo to push a bit of oil out the turbine seal into the exhaust. I took the opportunity to install a pre-turbo pyrometer probe as well (had only been running post turbo until now).

So motor is basically new now. I also scored a brand new injection pump last year from Australia. Between this job and the dozens other things I've done to my motor over the years, suffice to say I know these motors pretty well now.

Moral of the story? If ANYONE out there, cracks their 2LTE/2LT cylinder head, PLEASE fix it right away. Don't drive it like that! And second thing, be DANG careful about how you setup your water/methanol injection system if you do go for one. Put the nozzle far enough back in the system that the water/meth has time to mix and evaporate properly with the air before entering the engine.

Here are a couple pictures right before the motor went back in.

IMG_20180317_112544547.jpg
IMG_20180317_112520327.jpg
 
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I don't know if I was sent the wrong part or if it's defective. New belt has been ordered.

Is there a part number on the belt somewhere? Do you have the old belt to compare it? Are you using a new tensioner spring?
 
Is there a part number on the belt somewhere? Do you have the old belt to compare it? Are you using a new tensioner spring?

Unfortunately, the answer to all three questions is no. I can't find anything on the new belt that resembles a Toyota part number and my new tensioner didn't come with a replacement spring. The engine is fairly low miles, though, and I think I've pretty well determined that the tensioner isn't the problem.
 

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