2LTE fuel adjustment screw factory setting? (2 Viewers)

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You're obviously very well read and planned about your build. With that level of attention to detail, you should have a successful trip. Do you have a blog somewhere that you'll update as you travel? I look forward to hearing how you make out.

I have about 1/2 inch of clearance between the fan and radiator.

When the fans really crank up and draw lots of air the blades bend quite significantly toward the rad. 1/2 is probably fine, but is pretty close. Would suck to have interference when you're in the middle of nowhere. Something to keep a careful eye on especially if you switch to a different fan I suppose....
 
You're obviously very well read and planned about your build. With that level of attention to detail, you should have a successful trip. Do you have a blog somewhere that you'll update as you travel? I look forward to hearing how you make out.



When the fans really crank up and draw lots of air the blades bend quite significantly toward the rad. 1/2 is probably fine, but is pretty close. Would suck to have interference when you're in the middle of nowhere. Something to keep a careful eye on especially if you switch to a different fan I suppose....

Thanks! I spent the last 3 years living out of a 7.3l powerstroke powered home on wheels and learned a lot from that truck. Planning is key, especially with the remote places I go. I don’t have a blog, but I do have an Instagram and a website that I update regularly. www.BasilLynch.com www.Instagram.com/BasilLynch

A part of me wanting to switch the fan was to gain clearance on the radiator haha! I haven’t had an issue yet, but a small front end impact could easily make things much worse. I remember you saying there was a fan that was too close to the crank? Was that the 3.0 ring fan? I could make a spacer that left it less room between the fan and gave me a bit more room on the radiator side.
 
Replace your engine mounts before the trip and grab an extra to take with. They’re notorious for tearing and that’s a quick way to put a fan through the rad.

If you mount up a barrel intercooler post up some pictures, I’d like to add one to my 40 one day.
 
Replace your engine mounts before the trip and grab an extra to take with. They’re notorious for tearing and that’s a quick way to put a fan through the rad.

If you mount up a barrel intercooler post up some pictures, I’d like to add one to my 40 one day.

Good to know! Trail-Gear makes some HD versions that they call "Bomb Proof", they do use a polyurethane isolator, I'm sure I'd get a lot more vibration in the cab. Maybe worth a shot
 
Oh, and speaking of the OP, I forgot I was supposed to post the 2LTE IP spec sheet. So here it is @WallE . At the end of the sheet you'll see a default Spill control valve screw measurement range.

I measured today and mine was set at 2.8mm, right at the top end of the OEM recommend adjustment. Do you mind measuring what your screw is at so I have an idea on where I'm at in the "full turn"?
 
I measured today and mine was set at 2.8mm, right at the top end of the OEM recommend adjustment. Do you mind measuring what your screw is at so I have an idea on where I'm at in the "full turn"?

I shall try to do this on my truck tomorrow. Keep in mind though, no two pumps are the same. Here is a link for understanding the ECD-V3 system and I believe in there it discusses how the 2LTE pumps are tuned at the factory. They use the spill valve adjustment screw as well as the fuel resistor to tune for pump differences. The goal is that when the computer demands a certain spill time, the fuel injected is what the computer expects.

On a side note, I've discovered a way to tell if the spill valve is getting close to maximum fuel. It's possible to check without having the engine go into full runaway. Basically you have the truck idling and warm. Turn the spill valve up a tiny bit at a time (screw in 1/16 of a turn) with the engine running. Rev the engine up to at least 3000 rpm and release the throttle. If the revs hang for a sec before returning back to idle, it means you're getting very close to run-away. I backed my spill valve back out about 1/8 turn from that point. If the revs don't hang, you can screw in another 1/16 and try again. Once you know that max, you could back the screw out again about 3/4 turn and that should put you very close to the original fuel setting. Or just go by the measurement range....

Another side note, if you intercept the fuel resistor wire and place a 10 turn 2.5kOhm pot in it's place, you can adjust fuel from in your cab. It effects more the lower rpms, but still a handy thing. i intercepted the wire at the ECU in the cab of my LJ78. I default the pot to the factory spec resistance, and increase it from there if I want a little more oomf. It makes a definite noticeable difference.

As I'm typing away, I just remembered that I have a spare un-messed with injection pump in my shop. Just went to measure it. I pulled the cap off the spv screw and it was clear it had not been removed before. I only have chinese calipers here, but I was seeing around 2.85mm from top of the adjust screw to top of the lock nut. Pretty amazing how close it is to yours actually. My measurement is probably only accurate to .05mm.

The tuning procedure probably starts with the screw further out on purpose, and they dial it in to increase fuel as needed to meet spec.
 
I shall try to do this on my truck tomorrow. Keep in mind though, no two pumps are the same. Here is a link for understanding the ECD-V3 system and I believe in there it discusses how the 2LTE pumps are tuned at the factory. They use the spill valve adjustment screw as well as the fuel resistor to tune for pump differences. The goal is that when the computer demands a certain spill time, the fuel injected is what the computer expects.

On a side note, I've discovered a way to tell if the spill valve is getting close to maximum fuel. It's possible to check without having the engine go into full runaway. Basically you have the truck idling and warm. Turn the spill valve up a tiny bit at a time (screw in 1/16 of a turn) with the engine running. Rev the engine up to at least 3000 rpm and release the throttle. If the revs hang for a sec before returning back to idle, it means you're getting very close to run-away. I backed my spill valve back out about 1/8 turn from that point. If the revs don't hang, you can screw in another 1/16 and try again. Once you know that max, you could back the screw out again about 3/4 turn and that should put you very close to the original fuel setting. Or just go by the measurement range....

Another side note, if you intercept the fuel resistor wire and place a 10 turn 2.5kOhm pot in it's place, you can adjust fuel from in your cab. It effects more the lower rpms, but still a handy thing. i intercepted the wire at the ECU in the cab of my LJ78. I default the pot to the factory spec resistance, and increase it from there if I want a little more oomf. It makes a definite noticeable difference.

As I'm typing away, I just remembered that I have a spare un-messed with injection pump in my shop. Just went to measure it. I pulled the cap off the spv screw and it was clear it had not been removed before. I only have chinese calipers here, but I was seeing around 2.85mm from top of the adjust screw to top of the lock nut. Pretty amazing how close it is to yours actually. My measurement is probably only accurate to .05mm.

The tuning procedure probably starts with the screw further out on purpose, and they dial it in to increase fuel as needed to meet spec.


Great info! I really appreciate it. Its Interesting that my pump was set to about factory, I'm also using eBay special Chinese calipers so we're probably pretty close hah!

I turned it up about a 1/8th turn and noticed a nice little bump in power, I'll wait for the intercooler to go any further. I like the idea of the Ohm pot, maybe I'll look into adding that, my old 7.3 had an on the fly tuner in the cab that was great while wheeling, I could bump up the power if I was about to dive into a mud hole or needed more power for a hill. I do miss the turbo V8 diesel somedays, it was a massively powerful truck.
 
Great info! I really appreciate it. Its Interesting that my pump was set to about factory, I'm also using eBay special Chinese calipers so we're probably pretty close hah!

I turned it up about a 1/8th turn and noticed a nice little bump in power, I'll wait for the intercooler to go any further. I like the idea of the Ohm pot, maybe I'll look into adding that, my old 7.3 had an on the fly tuner in the cab that was great while wheeling, I could bump up the power if I was about to dive into a mud hole or needed more power for a hill. I do miss the turbo V8 diesel somedays, it was a massively powerful truck.

I look at the big diesel trucks with an eye of envy on occasion. Would make towing so easy for me. But things seem like they can get expensive fast on them too. Older trucks are great with less emissions equipment but are wearing out and need work. Newer trucks with too much emissions equipment seem to have reduce fuel economy, choke themselves and need expensive repairs too. So for now I keep pushing the little 2LTE. A new cylinder head and all associated parts for a 2LTE are still cheaper than 1/2 the injectors on a modern diesel....LOl.

Looks like you've done some pretty neat trips. Livin' the dream! Keep it up.
 
We're talking about the electronic pump here. The adjust screw is on the spill control valve. When mine went into run away I reached down in there with the motor screaming and turned the screw back out! Not fun! But no apparent damage. o_O Since then I've never exceeded 7/8 of a turn in.

I've played a bit with mechanical pumps (friends 1hdt), and we've found the boost comp fuel pin is the best way to increase fuel. Fuel screw just makes it too rich down low. The right curve on the fuel pin to match the spool/boost curve is the trick.
Hi there,
Can you please tell me where is the fuel adjustment screw on an injection pump on 2lte please?
 
Hi there,
Can you please tell me where is the fuel adjustment screw on an injection pump on 2lte please?

Here is a picture that shows it. Note, you can't just turn up fuel and do nothing else. You need to intercool, add more boost (air), and trick the ECU into not going into fuel cut. If you don't do this, it'll have very high EGT's and damage your engine, and run like crap when it hits fuel cut.

Second note, make sure to take a picture of your original setting so you can put it back. Also, screw in for more fuel, out for less. Don't screw more than 3/4 turn in, or your engine will go into RUN AWAY the first time you rev it up.

3275179794_3e6663244b_b.jpg
 
Here is a picture that shows it. Note, you can't just turn up fuel and do nothing else. You need to intercool, add more boost (air), and trick the ECU into not going into fuel cut. If you don't do this, it'll have very high EGT's and damage your engine, and run like crap when it hits fuel cut.

Second note, make sure to take a picture of your original setting so you can put it back. Also, screw in for more fuel, out for less. Don't screw more than 3/4 turn in, or your engine will go into RUN AWAY the first time you rev it up.

3275179794_3e6663244b_b.jpg
Hi mate, thanks for your help. Which turbo do you think is the best for 2lte?
 

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