2LTE fuel adjustment screw factory setting? (1 Viewer)

[WallE]

Hey all,

Does anyone know if the fuel adjustment screw bottoms out at a factory setting, or can it be turned below what it was set at by Toyota?

The previous owner of my truck adjusted the fuel screw but I don't know by how much, I'm adding an intercooler in a few weeks and want to know what the fuel is adjusted to over factory. If someone had a photo of a non-adjusted fuel screw would give me a good idea of where mines at. I'm assuming it's up only a 1/8th-1/4 turn, but I don't know for sure.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Hey all,

Does anyone know if the fuel adjustment screw bottoms out at a factory setting, or can it be turned below what it was set at by Toyota?

The previous owner of my truck adjusted the fuel screw but I don't know by how much, I'm adding an intercooler in a few weeks and want to know what the fuel is adjusted to over factory. If someone had a photo of a non-adjusted fuel screw would give me a good idea of where mines at. I'm assuming it's up only a 1/8th-1/4 turn, but I don't know for sure.

At about 1 turn up the motor goes into run away. So it'll be less than one turn for sure. I have a 2lte injection pump spec sheet on my computer at work that gives a measurement of the screw height as a base setting. I can upload that tomorrow for you if you want.

You can also tune by EGT/smoke if you have a pyrometer. I'm pretty sure with your intercooler you'll actually want to turn up the fuel anyhow, so it might end up being ok where it is. After intercooling mine I turned up the fuel screw as much as possible (and boost), and my EGT's are still at least 200f cooler than they were with factory settings.

 

[WallE]

At about 1 turn up the motor goes into run away. So it'll be less than one turn for sure. I have a 2lte injection pump spec sheet on my computer at work that gives a measurement of the screw height as a base setting. I can upload that tomorrow for you if you want.

You can also tune by EGT/smoke if you have a pyrometer. I'm pretty sure with your intercooler you'll actually want to turn up the fuel anyhow, so it might end up being ok where it is. After intercooling mine I turned up the fuel screw as much as possible (and boost), and my EGT's are still at least 200f cooler than they were with factory settings.

Thanks for the speedy response! I was planning on tuning by smoke/EGT's but just wanted to know how much I was turning it up for peace of mind. That Injection pump spec sheet would be awesome to have

I've read a few of your tuning guides and am looking forward to getting a little more power and lower EGT's. Right now I'm seeing about 800-900f post turbo on long climbs with the 1400lb camper on the back. Not necessarily awful temperatures, but my coolant temperature spikes after a few miles on a long grade with higher EGT's. I'm going to be running a top mount intercooler with a thermo fan and hood scoop, so I probably won't see performance like you can get with your water to air setup, but any intercooler has to be better than no intercooler.

 

[Boosted]

At about 1 turn up the motor goes into run away. So it'll be less than one turn for sure. I have a 2lte injection pump spec sheet on my computer at work that gives a measurement of the screw height as a base setting. I can upload that tomorrow for you if you want.

You can also tune by EGT/smoke if you have a pyrometer. I'm pretty sure with your intercooler you'll actually want to turn up the fuel anyhow, so it might end up being ok where it is. After intercooling mine I turned up the fuel screw as much as possible (and boost), and my EGT's are still at least 200f cooler than they were with factory settings.

More than one turn and the motor goes in to run away? As in you can’t turn the motor off with the key and it revs and smokes till it throws a rod? I have gone 2 turns on a non turbo pump I had to adjust the throttle plate and idle screw because it had a high idle with no run away. I guess if the pump starts working in an area that it doesn’t normally it could stick there because of rust and dirt.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thanks for the speedy response! I was planning on tuning by smoke/EGT's but just wanted to know how much I was turning it up for peace of mind. That Injection pump spec sheet would be awesome to have

I've read a few of your tuning guides and am looking forward to getting a little more power and lower EGT's. Right now I'm seeing about 800-900f post turbo on long climbs with the 1400lb camper on the back. Not necessarily awful temperatures, but my coolant temperature spikes after a few miles on a long grade with higher EGT's. I'm going to be running a top mount intercooler with a thermo fan and hood scoop, so I probably won't see performance like you can get with your water to air setup, but any intercooler has to be better than no intercooler.

Sounds like your EGT's are not too bad. I could hit 1100-1200 post turbo on just medium hills with the truck un loaded when I first bought it. I only see about a 100f different between pre and post turbo temps. So it sounds to me like you're safe at the moment. Fuel economy is a good indicator as well.

Unfortunately the coolant temp spikes will always be a challenge with heavy loads on long climbs. A high-flow t-stat helps a lot (tridon 82 or 88C work good). I blocked off the line that 'warmed' the throttle body, as I removed the throttle plate and it was no longer necessary. This helps a bit as it forces more coolant to the radiator. Ultimately, a good OEM! viscous fan hub, a larger fan, and as thick a radiator as you can afford are the best things I've found to beat the heat. A 48mm rad core won't cut it. Go for 54mm or thicker. Some of the OEM fan hubs can be opened and adjusted. This makes a nice difference and helps the cooling system react faster. If your fan does not audibly roar as the temps rise, it's not good enough.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

More than one turn and the motor goes in to run away? As in you can’t turn the motor off with the key and it revs and smokes till it throws a rod? I have gone 2 turns on a non turbo pump I had to adjust the throttle plate and idle screw because it had a high idle with no run away. I guess if the pump starts working in an area that it doesn’t normally it could stick there because of rust and dirt.

We're talking about the electronic pump here. The adjust screw is on the spill control valve. When mine went into run away I reached down in there with the motor screaming and turned the screw back out! Not fun! But no apparent damage. Since then I've never exceeded 7/8 of a turn in.

I've played a bit with mechanical pumps (friends 1hdt), and we've found the boost comp fuel pin is the best way to increase fuel. Fuel screw just makes it too rich down low. The right curve on the fuel pin to match the spool/boost curve is the trick.

 

[WallE]

Sounds like your EGT's are not too bad. I could hit 1100-1200 post turbo on just medium hills with the truck un loaded when I first bought it. I only see about a 100f different between pre and post turbo temps. So it sounds to me like you're safe at the moment. Fuel economy is a good indicator as well.

Unfortunately the coolant temp spikes will always be a challenge with heavy loads on long climbs. A high-flow t-stat helps a lot (tridon 82 or 88C work good). I blocked off the line that 'warmed' the throttle body, as I removed the throttle plate and it was no longer necessary. This helps a bit as it forces more coolant to the radiator. Ultimately, a good OEM! viscous fan hub, a larger fan, and as thick a radiator as you can afford are the best things I've found to beat the heat. A 48mm rad core won't cut it. Go for 54mm or thicker. Some of the OEM fan hubs can be opened and adjusted. This makes a nice difference and helps the cooling system keep up.

I’ve done all of that except switch to a different fan, I’m still researching which one I’ll go to, but the one you’re running seems to be the good option. I’ll have access to machining equipment in a few weeks and can get a different fan and make the correct fan spacer then!

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I’ve done all of that except switch to a different fan, I’m still researching which one I’ll go to, but the one you’re running seems to be the good option. I’ll have access to machining equipment in a few weeks and can get a different fan and make the correct fan spacer then!

I've run a few fans now (not sure which one you've seen). Currently I'm running an early 1HDT fan on the OEM 2lte hub. I've changed the hub fluid out with new 10,000cst, and adjusted the turn on temp lower. The early 1HDT fan is smaller than the later one, so it fits well. Offset is the same as the 2LTE one, so no hub adapter needed. The 2H fan is another one known to be a drop in replacement for the 2LTE one. Some of the other L series ones are good drop in replacements as well. Stay away from the gas engine v6 fans as they all seem to have the wrong offset. If you click on my '1990 LJ78: Specs' in my signature below it'll bring you to a list of the most up-to date things I've done to my vehicle. Only the first post is up to date. I never really created a build thread and the rest is all out of date and might even be missleading.

 

[John in Utah]

Sounds like your EGT's are not too bad. I could hit 1100-1200 post turbo on just medium hills with the truck un loaded when I first bought it. I only see about a 100f different between pre and post turbo temps. So it sounds to me like you're safe at the moment. Fuel economy is a good indicator as well.

Unfortunately the coolant temp spikes will always be a challenge with heavy loads on long climbs. A high-flow t-stat helps a lot (tridon 82 or 88C work good). I blocked off the line that 'warmed' the throttle body, as I removed the throttle plate and it was no longer necessary. This helps a bit as it forces more coolant to the radiator. Ultimately, a good OEM! viscous fan hub, a larger fan, and as thick a radiator as you can afford are the best things I've found to beat the heat. A 48mm rad core won't cut it. Go for 54mm or thicker. Some of the OEM fan hubs can be opened and adjusted. This makes a nice difference and helps the cooling system react faster. If your fan does not audibly roar as the temps rise, it's not good enough.

I've run a few fans now (not sure which one you've seen). Currently I'm running an early 1HDT fan on the OEM 2lte hub. I've changed the hub fluid out with new 10,000cst, and adjusted the turn on temp lower. The early 1HDT fan is smaller than the later one, so it fits well. Offset is the same as the 2LTE one, so no hub adapter needed. The 2H fan is another one known to be a drop in replacement for the 2LTE one. Some of the other L series ones are good drop in replacements as well. Stay away from the gas engine v6 fans as they all seem to have the wrong offset. If you click on my '1990 LJ78: Specs' in my signature below it'll bring you to a list of the most up-to date things I've done to my vehicle. Only the first post is up to date. I never really created a build thread and the rest is all out of date and might even be missleading.

What are the diameters of those fans? Part numbers will vary across chassis types for the same engine. The hilux/surf engine bay is much more cramped than the cruisers, and when I was taking measurements the cruiser fans would not fit. I ended up using a 5LE hilux fan with 10 blades, and less (more?) offset so it sits slightly farther back from the rad.

I bought a 54mm ebay radiator and was not able to make it fit and still have comfortable clearance from the fan. I think it will fit well with the new 5LE fan but I had my original recored for a pretty penny before I discovered that as an option.

...but my coolant temperature spikes after a few miles on a long grade with higher EGT's.

If you're cooling system still isn't up to task I would address that before looking to performance. These engines have the reputation they do for a reason.

...but any intercooler has to be better than no intercooler.

There has been considerable talk on this forum as to the effectiveness of a top mount intercooler, especially in an engine bay that already gets very hot. Do you even need one at or below the factory boost limit? Genuinely asking.

 

[WallE]

What are the diameters of those fans? Part numbers will vary across chassis types for the same engine. The hilux/surf engine bay is much more cramped than the cruisers, and when I was taking measurements the cruiser fans would not fit. I ended up using a 5LE hilux fan with 10 blades, and less (more?) offset so it sits slightly farther back from the rad.

I bought a 54mm ebay radiator and was not able to make it fit and still have comfortable clearance from the fan. I think it will fit well with the new 5LE fan but I had my original recored for a pretty penny before I discovered that as an option.



If you're cooling system still isn't up to task I would address that before looking to performance. These engines have the reputation they do for a reason.


There has been considerable talk on this forum as to the effectiveness of a top mount intercooler, especially in an engine bay that already gets very hot. Do you even need one at or below the factory boost limit? Genuinely asking.

I should have probably been a little clearer, I'm seeing coolant spikes up to about 220f, which isn't crazy, especially with a 88c thermostat that doesn't fully open until about 103c. I believe my cooling system is pretty stout, I have a new 76mm aluminum radiator + shroud, fan clutch mod with 10,000cst fluid and 95f opening, new water pump, triton 88c thermostat (82c on the way), blocked off valve body heater, and Evans waterless coolant.

The reputation of these motors might have scared me and am trying to keep my temps lower than possible. The 82c thermostat should help drop it down a bit.

I've stared at the engine bay for hours trying to figure out how to run a front mount but I can't figure out a way to get the piping up there. I think a top mount with thermo fans + scoop or a water to air setup is the only way I can make it fit, plus I'm going to try and refit the air conditioning system before we head to Central America. I don't necessarily need the intercooler, my EGT's are alright right now 600-800f at 110kph and 800-900f maximum (post turbo probe), but I'd like a little more power/fuel economy, the Hilux struggles a bit with the camper on the back on steeper hills, I have to be in 2/3rd gear and at 3500rpm to make it up.

Current performance mods:
- EGR block off
- intake butterfly valve's removed
- K&N filter
- Snorkel
- 14psi max boost
- Fuel screw adjusted (unsure of by how much)
- 2.5" straight pipe exhaust
- freshly rebuilt turbo

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I should have probably been a little clearer, I'm seeing coolant spikes up to about 220f, which isn't crazy, especially with a 88c thermostat that doesn't fully open until about 103c. I believe my cooling system is pretty stout, I have a new 76mm aluminum radiator + shroud, fan clutch mod with 10,000cst fluid and 95f opening, new water pump, triton 88c thermostat (82c on the way), blocked off valve body heater, and Evans waterless coolant.

The reputation of these motors might have scared me and am trying to keep my temps lower than possible. The 82c thermostat should help drop it down a bit.

I've stared at the engine bay for hours trying to figure out how to run a front mount but I can't figure out a way to get the piping up there. I think a top mount with thermo fans + scoop or a water to air setup is the only way I can make it fit, plus I'm going to try and refit the air conditioning system before we head to Central America. I don't necessarily need the intercooler, my EGT's are alright right now 600-800f at 110kph and 800-900f maximum (post turbo probe), but I'd like a little more power/fuel economy, the Hilux struggles a bit with the camper on the back on steeper hills, I have to be in 2/3rd gear and at 3500rpm to make it up.

Current performance mods:
- EGR block off
- intake butterfly valve's removed
- K&N filter
- Snorkel
- 14psi max boost
- Fuel screw adjusted (unsure of by how much)
- 2.5" straight pipe exhaust
- freshly rebuilt turbo

One thing I've found with the Evans Coolant, is it does not transfer heat as well as a water based coolant. That said, I think it's ability to keep the head temperature more even (especially around the valves/precups) is absolutely key. A water based coolant will have created a vapor barrier around the pre-cup and between the valves probably even before you reach 220f - allowing those areas to super heat and stress the metal. After approx 80,000km of using Evans in my engine and abusing the absolute crap out of it, I have come to trust it. 220f would not concern me much. I've run over 250f. Another fellow on this forum has seen 270f with his turbo 3B and Evans while towing also.

One of the main things I've discovered though, is hot coolant means hot engine oil. So be sure to run a thicker viscosity. I've found 15w40 Shell Rotella non-synthetic stands up very well to all the abuse I could throw at it. Never a problem with it. If you expect to be in really hot ambient temps with lots of long climbs, you may even want to look at 20w50. I made the mistake of running a no name 10w30 semi synth one time while towing in summer. It completely failed, broke down and had a water like consistency when I drained it. It actually caused damage to my bearings and cylinder walls at that time.

Can you post a picture of your engine bay? Maybe we could give you some ideas regarding an intercooler option that isn't top mount. An intercooler is a HUGE benefit on these motors. It's really worth the effort to make a decently efficient one. It's a game changer for power/efficiency/egt.

No matter how tight things are in your engine bay, I'd think that you'd be able to install something like this at least? Could maybe set it near the back of the valve cover with some silicone adapters to go from turbo to intake manifold? Water liquid to air intercooler barrel cooler 4"x8" for supercharger engine | eBay The 2LTE moves fairly low CFM, and I think a small heat exchanger like this would be fine. Then fit the largest intercooler radiator you can in the front of your truck. They can be pretty thin (3/4" or 1"), so you should be able to fit it ok?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I updated that post a number of times the last few minutes, haha. ^^

 

[WallE]

One thing I've found with the Evans Coolant, is it does not transfer heat as well as a water based coolant. That said, I think it's ability to keep the head temperature more even (especially around the valves/precups) is absolutely key. A water based coolant will have created a vapor barrier around the pre-cup and between the valves probably even before you reach 220f - allowing those areas to super heat and stress the metal. After approx 80,000km of using Evans in my engine and abusing the absolute crap out of it, I have come to trust it. 220f would not concern me much. I've run over 250f. Another fellow on this forum has seen 270f with his turbo 3B and Evans while towing also.

Can you post a picture of your engine bay? Maybe we could give you some ideas regarding an intercooler option that isn't top mount. An intercooler is a HUGE benefit on these motors. It's really worth the effort to make a decently efficient one. It's a game changer for power/efficiency/egt.

No matter how tight things are in your engine bay, I'd think that you'd be able to install something like this at least? Could maybe set it near the back of the valve cover with some silicone adapters to go from turbo to intake manifold? 4"x8" air water intercooler | eBay The 2LTE moves fairly low CFM, and I think a small heat exchanger like this would be fine. Then fit the largest intercooler radiator you can in the front of your truck. They can be pretty thin (3/4" or 1"), so you should be able to fit it ok?

Glad to hear you you’ve gotten temps that high without issue, I’ll be a little less nervous at higher temps now! Hah

I’ve looked at those barrel style intercoolers and they seem like a good option, I’ve measured and can fit one where the OEM charge pipe crosses the valve cover if I remake the intake pipe at a different angle. My only worry with a water to air intercooler is their reliability, especially with a cheaper one, I’m planning on driving thousands of harsh miles off road and would hate to spring a leak and get water in a cylinder. But they do seem like a great solution and take up very little space.

I’ve attached a few photos of the engine bay.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Glad to hear you you’ve gotten temps that high without issue, I’ll be a little less nervous at higher temps now! Hah

I’ve looked at those barrel style intercoolers and they seem like a good option, I’ve measured and can fit one where the OEM charge pipe crosses the valve cover if I remake the intake pipe at a different angle. My only worry with a water to air intercooler is their reliability, especially with a cheaper one, I’m planning on driving thousands of harsh miles off road and would hate to spring a leak and get water in a cylinder. But they do seem like a great solution and take up very little space.

I’ve attached a few photos of the engine bay.

Thanks for the pics! One option might be to move your air filter over to the turbo side of the engine bay. You'd have to run a custom cone filter of some type, or source a small OEM air box from a wrecker that would fit. Might even have to shift the relay box back a bit.

That would give you room on the intake side of the engine to fit a water/air exchanger lower down. This way if it started leaking, it would be less likely to flood your engine to the point of hydro-lock for example. As much as people are concerned with air/water systems leaking, I've never heard of it happening to anyone on any of the forums I frequent. You can run a low pressure coolant system for it also, to reduce any stress on the intercooler core. It should never get even close to boiling hot, so doesn't need to be pressurized like a regular cooling system.

Moving the air filter could also make it easier to run charge piping to a simple front mount air/air intercooler. You would be fine with 2" piping; again the CFM requirement of these motors is pretty low.

It's tough to make these sorts of systems, but on this particular motor, it really is worth the effort. To this day it's been my best modification to my engine.

Please note I added a section on engine oil to my post above. It's really the biggest risk to running higher coolant temps.

 

[John in Utah]

I should have probably been a little clearer, I'm seeing coolant spikes up to about 220f, which isn't crazy, especially with a 88c thermostat that doesn't fully open until about 103c. I believe my cooling system is pretty stout, I have a new 76mm aluminum radiator + shroud, fan clutch mod with 10,000cst fluid and 95f opening, new water pump, triton 88c thermostat (82c on the way), blocked off valve body heater, and Evans waterless coolant.

The reputation of these motors might have scared me and am trying to keep my temps lower than possible. The 82c thermostat should help drop it down a bit.

I've stared at the engine bay for hours trying to figure out how to run a front mount but I can't figure out a way to get the piping up there. I think a top mount with thermo fans + scoop or a water to air setup is the only way I can make it fit, plus I'm going to try and refit the air conditioning system before we head to Central America. I don't necessarily need the intercooler, my EGT's are alright right now 600-800f at 110kph and 800-900f maximum (post turbo probe), but I'd like a little more power/fuel economy, the Hilux struggles a bit with the camper on the back on steeper hills, I have to be in 2/3rd gear and at 3500rpm to make it up.

Current performance mods:
- EGR block off
- intake butterfly valve's removed
- K&N filter
- Snorkel
- 14psi max boost
- Fuel screw adjusted (unsure of by how much)
- 2.5" straight pipe exhaust
- freshly rebuilt turbo

Didn't realize you were running Evans, forget I mentioned it! 220 is pretty reasonable for waterless and is still pulling a ton of heat out of the head. My PO had the foresight to switch to Evans, but I just couldn't get comfortable with it. I ran it up to 250 f on multiple occasions just cruising on flat highway and finally ditched it for Toyota red. If I remember my math the heat capacity of Evans is 70% of conventional, and the stock hilux cooling system just doesn't have that much head room. It doesn't sit well with me to have the factory gauge pegged and think "this is fine"

If you go top mount consider that you will be fighting the engine fan that's trying to pull 220 degrees out of the rad and into the engine bay, all that air needs somewhere to go and without a big hood scoop, good fan, and good seal to the hood I would worry about getting sufficient air flow into the bay and over the core. I looked at putting vents in the hood to reduce engine bay temps while using Evans. Some more reading here: Top mount Intercooler | 80series since I'm no expert.

Did you move the radiator mount farther forward to fit one that big? If so there might not be room for the water to air radiator. The 3L/5L intake looks like it might open up some real estate for an exchange but I'm not sure you can make the "E" stuff work with it. I was trying to figure out why your intake side looked so cramped until I realized it was LHD, very cool. Where is your truck from?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Didn't realize you were running Evans, forget I mentioned it! 220 is pretty reasonable for waterless and is still pulling a ton of heat out of the head. My PO had the foresight to switch to Evans, but I just couldn't get comfortable with it. I ran it up to 250 f on multiple occasions just cruising on flat highway and finally ditched it for Toyota red. If I remember my math the heat capacity of Evans is 70% of conventional, and the stock hilux cooling system just doesn't have that much head room. It doesn't sit well with me to have the factory gauge pegged and think "this is fine"

Even with Evan's lower efficiency, I've never seen mine go above 210f on my truck when not towing. I think there might have been something else going on with your cooling system if it was running that hot on flat highway?

For me to get the high temps I was talking about, everything is worst case. Like moving 8500lb+ truck/trailer up a long 6%+ grade in 90F+ weather with skinny pedal planted, not letting off. In fact, the year that it was really bad my first tridon t-stat had partially failed and was not opening more than 1/2 way. Sort of surprised the motor survived to be honest.

 

[John in Utah]

Even with Evan's lower efficiency, I've never seen mine go above 210f on my truck when not towing. I think there might have been something else going on with your cooling system if it was running that hot on flat highway?

For me to get the high temps I was talking about, everything is worst case. Like moving 8500lb+ truck/trailer up a long 6%+ grade in 90F+ weather with skinny pedal planted, not letting off. In fact, the year that it was really bad my first tridon t-stat had partially failed and was not opening more than 1/2 way. Sort of surprised the motor survived to be honest.

Oh absolutely. Radiator was plugged. But I had already made up my mind that if I couldn’t keep it in the “normal” temp range I wouldn’t run it. My torture test is going from my house up toward park city, a mostly 6% grade for 10 miles. After each cooling mod I would turn the AC on and start driving up until the temp spiked. The only mod that could keep the needle from moving on a 100 degree day was Toyota red.

I understand and trust the science behind Evans, and if you tow or run a lot of boost or fuel then it’s a great option if you can live with the occasional higher temps and effect that has on oil, plastic bits, and whatever else.

Sorry, this post is supposed to be about fuel screws and I don’t even have a 2LTE, never mind me

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Sorry, this post is supposed to be about fuel screws and I don’t even have a 2LTE, never mind me

Hopefully the OP is fine with the digression. It's all in the good interest of making L series more robust I guess.

I like hearing from others who are doing their own R&D and pushing the limits of these motors. Thanks for sharing your experiences. And you're right Evans isn't for everyone; it does have it's downsides.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Oh, and speaking of the OP, I forgot I was supposed to post the 2LTE IP spec sheet. So here it is @WallE . At the end of the sheet you'll see a default Spill control valve screw measurement range.

 

[WallE]

Thanks for the pics! One option might be to move your air filter over to the turbo side of the engine bay. You'd have to run a custom cone filter of some type, or source a small OEM air box from a wrecker that would fit. Might even have to shift the relay box back a bit.

That would give you room on the intake side of the engine to fit a water/air exchanger lower down. This way if it started leaking, it would be less likely to flood your engine to the point of hydro-lock for example. As much as people are concerned with air/water systems leaking, I've never heard of it happening to anyone on any of the forums I frequent. You can run a low pressure coolant system for it also, to reduce any stress on the intercooler core. It should never get even close to boiling hot, so doesn't need to be pressurized like a regular cooling system.

Moving the air filter could also make it easier to run charge piping to a simple front mount air/air intercooler. You would be fine with 2" piping; again the CFM requirement of these motors is pretty low.

It's tough to make these sorts of systems, but on this particular motor, it really is worth the effort. To this day it's been my best modification to my engine.

Please note I added a section on engine oil to my post above. It's really the biggest risk to running higher coolant temps.

I wish I could flip the air intake to the other side, but I have a snorkel that's installed on the driver's side of the engine bay and I'm actually planning on using it down south! It helps a ton with the dust in Baja. I think I'm going to go with a water to air intercooler system and use the barrel style intercooler, It was my original plan and it seems to work well for others. I never realized its a low-pressure system and it would be hard for the system to flood the intake with water if it sprung a leak, hopefully, I'd notice it before it caused major damage.

Didn't realize you were running Evans, forget I mentioned it! 220 is pretty reasonable for waterless and is still pulling a ton of heat out of the head. My PO had the foresight to switch to Evans, but I just couldn't get comfortable with it. I ran it up to 250 f on multiple occasions just cruising on flat highway and finally ditched it for Toyota red. If I remember my math the heat capacity of Evans is 70% of conventional, and the stock hilux cooling system just doesn't have that much head room. It doesn't sit well with me to have the factory gauge pegged and think "this is fine"

If you go top mount consider that you will be fighting the engine fan that's trying to pull 220 degrees out of the rad and into the engine bay, all that air needs somewhere to go and without a big hood scoop, good fan, and good seal to the hood I would worry about getting sufficient air flow into the bay and over the core. I looked at putting vents in the hood to reduce engine bay temps while using Evans. Some more reading here: Top mount Intercooler | 80series since I'm no expert.

Did you move the radiator mount farther forward to fit one that big? If so there might not be room for the water to air radiator. The 3L/5L intake looks like it might open up some real estate for an exchange but I'm not sure you can make the "E" stuff work with it. I was trying to figure out why your intake side looked so cramped until I realized it was LHD, very cool. Where is your truck from?

I've read through that thread and totally understand that a top mount is one of the worst solutions, but I have seen a few vehicles with it from the factory and it seems to work for them. But I think a barrel-style water to air intercooler is what I'm going to go with.

The radiator is in the stock position, but it barely fits, I have about 1/2 inch of clearance between the fan and radiator. I should have space to fit a heat exchanger behind the grill, there's actually a good amount of room.

The truck is a North American Toyota pickup that had a 2L-TE and half-cut Toyota surf interior swapped into it replacing a 22RE, they use the same engine mounts! I got lucky with it because RHD vehicles aren't allowed in several countries along the Pan American Highway.

Hopefully the OP is fine with the digression. It's all in the good interest of making L series more robust I guess.

I like hearing from others who are doing their own R&D and pushing the limits of these motors. Thanks for sharing your experiences. And you're right Evans isn't for everyone; it does have it's downsides.

Totally fine! The more knowledge I can gain on this engine the better, I've had a great time doing all the work myself and learning as much as I can along the way. I'm going to be traveling to some extremely remote areas and want to be able to fix anything that breaks on the road.

Oh, and speaking of the OP, I forgot I was supposed to post the 2LTE IP spec sheet. So here it is @WallE . At the end of the sheet you'll see a default Spill control valve screw measurement range.

Thanks for that! I'm going to mess around with the tune tomorrow and see what happens.