Hi all, having a bit of a rough time and thought I'd reach out with some of my experiences.
Truck ran great, no problems starting, no problems overheating. Stopped for groceries and 10 minutes ater she just would not start. Messed around bleeding injectors for some time before towing home. (Thanks BCAA). Note: when I initially lifted the hood I found my racor filter empty, hmm..
Once home I got everything primed upto the pump well, good head pressure. And after ages of priming and cranking, the injection pump was only sending a little fuel to #1 & 2 injectors. I have clear fuel lines installed, and could see no fuel returning from the pump. Tear the pump off and send it to fred Holmes along with the injectors. FH finds all three sensors in the pump are bad and presents a $2400 repair estimate.
I bought a pump off a running engine from a friend, tested all the electronics to find no faults and installed it along with rebuilt injectors and hot tanked high pressure lines. New timing belt, oil pump gasket, and water pump, etc as well. Engine spins over by hand nicely, all timing Mark's are consistently lining up. All installed and primed, the IP is returning fuel on manual priming alone, all good signs.
On cranking with the starter, the engine is spinning freely and making good compression, but will not try to start. Not even the slightest bite or tick. It will almost run on starting fluid, but it does not sound like any fueling is happening. Cracking the new injectors shows fuel there, but maybe not enough volume/pressure as before. Cracked nozzle nuts dont lead to spraying fuel like it would under normal running condition.
Back to the diagnostic port; i got code 5 and 11:
-code 5 turned out to be a shotty connection on one of the resistor connectors, fixed and cleared
-code 11 persists...
Regarding code 11 I have read it can he tied to the TPS. I have tested the tps through the obd port to find ok values, and did the bench testing, all OK.
My inclination now is this code 11 is preventing proper runtime volume/pressure due to a fault in the park/neutral switch. (Starter engagement is not locked out, and I've tried starting in both park and neutral.) Everything I've found online related to this code 11 problem with a badly running engine, not a no start like mine.
I've found via manuals that on the ECU connector, there is a terminal NSW that has 12v on the park/neutral condition from an inhibitor somewhere. This will be my next area of investigation. (Anyone found this?)
Can anyone offer any tips, pointers, or suggestions on this?
All appreciated, thanks!
Truck ran great, no problems starting, no problems overheating. Stopped for groceries and 10 minutes ater she just would not start. Messed around bleeding injectors for some time before towing home. (Thanks BCAA). Note: when I initially lifted the hood I found my racor filter empty, hmm..
Once home I got everything primed upto the pump well, good head pressure. And after ages of priming and cranking, the injection pump was only sending a little fuel to #1 & 2 injectors. I have clear fuel lines installed, and could see no fuel returning from the pump. Tear the pump off and send it to fred Holmes along with the injectors. FH finds all three sensors in the pump are bad and presents a $2400 repair estimate.
I bought a pump off a running engine from a friend, tested all the electronics to find no faults and installed it along with rebuilt injectors and hot tanked high pressure lines. New timing belt, oil pump gasket, and water pump, etc as well. Engine spins over by hand nicely, all timing Mark's are consistently lining up. All installed and primed, the IP is returning fuel on manual priming alone, all good signs.
On cranking with the starter, the engine is spinning freely and making good compression, but will not try to start. Not even the slightest bite or tick. It will almost run on starting fluid, but it does not sound like any fueling is happening. Cracking the new injectors shows fuel there, but maybe not enough volume/pressure as before. Cracked nozzle nuts dont lead to spraying fuel like it would under normal running condition.
Back to the diagnostic port; i got code 5 and 11:
-code 5 turned out to be a shotty connection on one of the resistor connectors, fixed and cleared
-code 11 persists...
Regarding code 11 I have read it can he tied to the TPS. I have tested the tps through the obd port to find ok values, and did the bench testing, all OK.
My inclination now is this code 11 is preventing proper runtime volume/pressure due to a fault in the park/neutral switch. (Starter engagement is not locked out, and I've tried starting in both park and neutral.) Everything I've found online related to this code 11 problem with a badly running engine, not a no start like mine.
I've found via manuals that on the ECU connector, there is a terminal NSW that has 12v on the park/neutral condition from an inhibitor somewhere. This will be my next area of investigation. (Anyone found this?)
Can anyone offer any tips, pointers, or suggestions on this?
All appreciated, thanks!