2LT-E Injection Pump - stuck in the bush and need my LC back running, help please! (1 Viewer)

[CaribooPrado]

RE: Toyota LandCruiser Prado EX5 Turbo Diesel EFI LHD

History:
In February of 2007 I converted my LC from the original 2LT engine to a 2LT-E. This was because of a cracked head/overheating issue and at that time I could not find the exact same engine. Between my mechanic and myself we managed to get it up and running. The biggest issue was that the 2L-T blocks are cast with the boss for a crank angle sensor but it is not drilled and the crank is not set up for the sensor. So we built an external bracket for the crank angle sensor and it gets triggered from a piece of metal
I’ve welded to a pulley.
To be clear, I now have the EFI injection pump installed.

external sensor mounting bracket picture by caribooyj - Photobucket
Sensor mount picture by caribooyj - Photobucket

It took a while to adjust it just right, but I finally got it working after mounting two sensor. One to take a reading and one to actually drive the car. The check engine light went off and I drove the LC for 2 years without any issues. (The overheating was caused by a faulty fan, the clutch wasn’t working).

My problem:
In January the check engine light started coming on from time to time and the LC wasn’t running all that great and went into safe mode from time to time.
I had two error codes come up:
12 - Crank Angle Sensor
13 - Engine Speed Sensor
I’ve re-checked the crank angle sensor set-up, remounted it all and get a great reading off it on the oscilloscope. Now Error code 12 is gone and all I get is error code 13 for the speed sensor. We’ve replaced the speed sensor in the injection pump but the problem and error code is still there. Seems like its even worse now and difficult to get started.
The only manual I have is the 1KZ-TE book and the flow chart only says to replace the injection pump.

My questions:
Should I replace the injection pump? Its expensive, money is an issue and I can’t afford to buy one if it doesn’t solve my problem.
What do you guys think? Any advice?
Also, is it possible to install the manual injection pump of my old non EFI engine and just get rid of anything electronic and all the sensors and stuff?

I’m really at a loss here and live quite remote out in the bush, I can’t bring the LC to a major center or have a Diesel specialist look at it. I managed to get it running two years ago and hope I can solve this problem with your help as well. I’m not a mechanic, but trying to learn… and already did by owning the Prado (heck, I even had to learn how to weld to build the bracket) please be as specific as possible. Thanks a lot in advance for all your help. I’m also posting this on the DieselMadness Forum, just to get as much input as possible.

 

[rockcrawler]

If you can get rid of the electronics then do it.
I speak from 30 years experience of working in the electronics industry. As far as I'm concerned, if you live or spend quite of bit of time out in the bush and your transport relies on computerized gadgets for it to move then you are asking for trouble.

The more parts to a design, the higher likelihood of a problem developing, basic engineering. Computer systems are complexities +, there's so many variables for something going wrong it's not funny.

It could still be the speed sensor, just because you are getting a reading on the scope does not mean its giving out enough current/voltage to trip the circuit it connects to, even with shorted turns on its winding you'll still get a reading. Can you improvise by swapping the sensors and seeing if the problem still manifest itself in the speed sensor side? Just an idea.

Another thing you could check is for bad electrolytic caps on your computer. Look for caps with bulging tops (they should be flat) or stuff oozing from the bottoms or even the pressure relief on the tops. If you see stuff stuck to the tops of electros (usually a brown color) its because they have leaked. Bad caps will also get warm. The most common problem with vehicle computer boards is bad electrolytic capacitors, as with all electronic equipment.

Now that I have bagged every vehicle made in the last twenty years or more I better state that I actually specialize in computer controlled "gadgets" and actually design them

Jumping for joy for owning my BJ40, there's only 2 transistors in it that I know of.

 

[CaribooPrado]

Thanks for the info! I'd love to get rid of the electronics, but can I?
A few years back when I did the conversion someone wrote me this:

The 2LTII is the same as the 2LTE except that the 2LTII has a manual injection pump and the 2LTE has an electronic injection pump. Hence no mount for your crank angle sensor on the 2LTII block. Change to a manual injection pump if you can locate one and begone with all the electronics...

I do have the manual pump. Can I just put it in? How about the ECU...
I hear what you are saying about the electronics. I'm an electrician (well, that's a while back) but would love to go all mechanics, just because of my situation. So yes, if I can change it I would... any thoughts?

 

[rockcrawler]

I don't have have enough knowledge on that motor to be able to answer that question but I am sure someone on here should be able to give you the answer to that. Would be good if the answer was yes.

 

[CaribooPrado]

Would be good if the answer was yes.

That would be great! ... I'd save money and have a much simpler vehicle to work on, I'd be having a few of those

 

[UnderPSI]

I agree, swap it for a mechanical pump. Have seen the early VW TDI motors swaped to a mechanical pump, run great.

 

[CaribooPrado]

so its possible? just use the mechanical pump, disconnect the crank sensor, no ECU and be done with? that easy... sounds good to me, especially since I have the mechanical pump from my old engine.
thx!

 

[DanS HJ-45]

so its possible? just use the mechanical pump, disconnect the crank sensor, no ECU and be done with? that easy... sounds good to me, especially since I have the mechanical pump from my old engine.
thx!

That's how I understand it to work. If one was to have a 2LT-E, that they could just put in an IP from a 2LII-T and call it good. Then the only electrical connections would be an on/off wire, along with the oil pressure, water temp, etc....

I haven't done it, mind you, but I understand it has been done. Seems like a no-brainer to me: convert it away from the fake 2LT-E you have now. The EFI seems to create a lot of issues in the L series motors.

Dan

 

[CaribooPrado]

right on, you guys convinced me... I'll find my "old" injection pump and put that in. I'll keep you posted if and when its up and running. thanks again!

 

[UnderPSI]

Any updates on this?

 

[CaribooPrado]

Nothing yet, sorry.... we are having a cold weather spell, again -30° today, just too cold...

 

[CaribooPrado]

Could someone post a photo of the manual pump installed? We have to fabricate new linkage for the pump. The electronic pump is totally different and there's quite a bit of modification to the linkage necessary. A photo would be great help.
I'd also consider buying a non working manual pump for the linkage only, if someone has one available in Canada.
Thanks guys!

 

[CaribooPrado]

Conversion completed - LC is running great!



Oh yes, finally its all done. The mechanical pump is in, the linkage is build and in place and I have my LC back on the road (nothing wrong with my Jeep YJ, but with a soft-top in the Canadian winter, a big dog, propane bottles and gas for the generator plus a weeks worth of groceries its a pain).
The Prado runs like never before. A tiny bit more power, super quiet, no black smoke at all, great acceleration at higher speeds (in the 80km/h to 100km/h range its really noticeable) and no more electronics. It was difficult to build the linkage as the pump has a push-rod and there is not a lot of room, but everything works really well. Of course the check engine light is on, I'll have to pull the bulb, and the green turbo light doesn't work. The turbo kicks in fine.

Thanks for all the input and suggestions!