Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Did some work over the weekend.View attachment 3440500
My 'custom' turbo adapter, very proud of this one, I should sell these!
No, the proper flange came in the mail.
View attachment 3440501View attachment 3440502View attachment 3440503
Much better, not bad for my 112 volt flux welder, can't wait to get my Lincoln tombstone up and running again.
Turbo is spooling much easier now, I make 4 psi effortlessly. I only build full boost at full throttle, I assume thats normal? I'm fine with it, truck is happy, not chooching smoke, and staying cool. I found the last exhaust leak coming from the bottom of the manifold itself now, so I will have to take a look at that, and probably replace the gasket.
I am having to hold the glow plugs a bit longer now too, one might be going out again, if it's too short I get a miss in one cylinder for a few seconds, oh well, nothing to worry about now.
Yeah I can hit around 10 psi for a few seconds around 2500RPM, then the governor pulls back on the fuel and boost. It'll hold 6 all day.
Oh yeah, think it's called the smoke screw. My cap doesn't have one for some reason.Its probably more a matter of adjusting the fuel pin. More spring resistance will prevent it from hitting fuel cut so easily. I'm foggy on this, but is there a 'star wheel' or something to increase spring preload in the boost comp?
You should tune so it can hold 12psi. That should be fine with no intercooler. With intercooler, 20psi+
Oh yeah, think it's called the smoke screw. My cap doesn't have one for some reason. View attachment 3441414
Oh okay I see what you mean. I was talking about that cam plate/top screw to adjust the start position. I just don't have one haha. I'll try and source a lid that has one.No, thats different. The adjustment at the top is to set starting point of the fuel pin.
Just looked into it for a second and star wheel is in the bottom.
Usually there are three variables you can adjust on these pins. Turn it for a different fuel ramp (if eccentric fuel pin). Preload it appropriately so you get full travel before it hits the end and pulls fuel. Finally, adjust start position of the fuel ramp by a cam plate or screw in the lid. With some playing around, you can really dial in performance that you want.
View attachment 3441483
I still have a fairly large exhaust leak between the head and the manifold, enough to blow a bunch of smoke when I blip the throttle, thats most likely where my boost is going.the black valve cover looks so much better than the blue!! glad to hear your getting better boost now..
my setup would start making boost almost immediately make boost and would even keep 1- 2psi when off throttle on the highway.
10psi was part throttle and 20-25psi flooring it under most conditions although I could get it to spike higher.. It would hit 30 every once and a while if I whacked it in 4th with the AC on up a hill..
sounds like you have meat on the bone still...
also I had a electric cutout to bypass my muffler, I was amazed at how little the muffler did and wound up leaving that open 99% of the time