GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
The listing shows a 10mm 2LT pump. Toyota part # is 22100-5B022. Denso part # VE4/10F2100RND724. I guess it's uncertain what you actually received though!
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The listing shows a 10mm 2LT pump. Toyota part # is 22100-5B022. Denso part # VE4/10F2100RND724. I guess it's uncertain what you actually received though!
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
I think the early rocker cam 2LT motors came with a 9mm pump. Later 1989+ 2LT-II motors came with a 10mm pump. I think you're better off with the 10mm pump. Both motors are same displacement, so either/or should work. But 10mm can ultimately move more fuel: MOWR POWR!
4Ruster
2LT Sufferer
- Thread starter
- #266
Tested my compensator with a hand pump. 10 psi has full range on the pin. Slapped some gear mesh paint and ran it a few times, left a nice wear line. I'm surprised how much that lever moves. Looking forward to turning the load screw in a bit more.
My new intake manifold should be coming in on Thursday so I'll gut the EGR and throttle plates off that then do both on the same day. No more boost leaks will be nice. Might even be able to take the highway! Kelowna drivers are scary if you can't do 20 over the limit and our highways are freaking hilly. I took the 22r pickup to Vernon last year and got tailgated and honked at to oblivion doing 80 on some hills. Left lane wide open smh. One day I'll move to a nicer town.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Nice work!
4Ruster
2LT Sufferer
- Thread starter
- #268
Out of curiosity. What are you all getting for 0-100 times? I'll need something to go off of this weekend when I fiddle with the compensator.
Right now I can see in the headlights behind me I'm still blowing some soot mildly accelerating with the boost around 6psi. I can stomp on it and spool up to the wastegate at 10 psi pretty well. With the boost comp it will keep adding fuel with pressure so I won't have to manually keep throttling up right?
But it will do 100, it just takes a good 45 seconds haha.
I can see the light at the end of the -stupid expensive- tunnel
Right now I can see in the headlights behind me I'm still blowing some soot mildly accelerating with the boost around 6psi. I can stomp on it and spool up to the wastegate at 10 psi pretty well. With the boost comp it will keep adding fuel with pressure so I won't have to manually keep throttling up right?
But it will do 100, it just takes a good 45 seconds haha.
I can see the light at the end of the -stupid expensive- tunnel
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
My LJ78: 5000lb, auto-tragic
0-100km/hr 16.28s
1/4mile: 20.49s@110.0km/h
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4Ruster
2LT Sufferer
- Thread starter
- #270
Did some work today on the parts today. Slow Friday at work. Brake job and two oil changes. I feel like a lube tech again. I think the valve cover looks great.
Mind the mess, my project bench is overfilling with junk.
As for the manifold, I was originally thinking of keeping the throttle plates in and hook them up to a choke cable to use as an emergency shutoff, however after seeing it was slightly more complicated then I wanted to deal with, I just gutted it.
Gave all the pieces a nice coat of engine enamel, then I drilled a 3/16" NPT hole for my boost gauge. I figured the less hose tees, the better. I'm super stoked to put it all together tomorrow.
Oh and if anyone wants a TPS, pay postage and it's yours. I don't need it haha.
Mind the mess, my project bench is overfilling with junk.
As for the manifold, I was originally thinking of keeping the throttle plates in and hook them up to a choke cable to use as an emergency shutoff, however after seeing it was slightly more complicated then I wanted to deal with, I just gutted it.
Gave all the pieces a nice coat of engine enamel, then I drilled a 3/16" NPT hole for my boost gauge. I figured the less hose tees, the better. I'm super stoked to put it all together tomorrow.
Oh and if anyone wants a TPS, pay postage and it's yours. I don't need it haha.
You've been messing with this a long time. I hope you get it dialed in the way you want. Looks good. 
That's the fuel Ejection working.
This truck is going to fight you all the way. Don't give up.
This truck is going to fight you all the way. Don't give up.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Looks like either shaft should work, but o-ring on right is pooched. New one and try again?
4Ruster
2LT Sufferer
- Thread starter
- #278
That was just from me pulling it out. The o ring was sitting above the shaft and not sealing at all. The 2 housings have different length shafts that are sized for the different throttle shafts. I guess I'll just have to use that weird janky governor setup.
You can see the mark on the left shaft where the boost comp housing ends, right where the oring is on the right shaft haha.
4Ruster
2LT Sufferer
- Thread starter
- #279
I was able to take it on a drive with the boost comp in briefly. The thing I noticed was the throttle was very weird. It was like nothing nothing nothing, accelerating. But it didn't pull even close as hard in boost then running no comp. Maybe it was just the fuel/pressure leak but I was expecting more pull when the boost kicked in.
4Ruster
2LT Sufferer
- Thread starter
- #280
Okay so I've been thinking. Instead of trying to make the simple spring governor work, maybe I'll give the cage style a chance. When I had it on, the throttle response was terrible, but reading through the VW forums I think I can make it work.
From left to right, we have the idle spring, the intermediate spring, and the main spring.
The intermediate spring is responsible for "smoothing out" the throttle -if you're going over rolling hills it keeps the RPM constant, like a shock absorber in a way-. The main spring is responsible for pulling back fuel in the higher RPM.
I don't have any info on the idle spring yet, but people are putting a 1/8 shim on the main spring to raise when it starts cutting fuel. I think I will do the same.
If anyone has some more knowledge on this governor style I'm all ears!
From left to right, we have the idle spring, the intermediate spring, and the main spring.
The intermediate spring is responsible for "smoothing out" the throttle -if you're going over rolling hills it keeps the RPM constant, like a shock absorber in a way-. The main spring is responsible for pulling back fuel in the higher RPM.
I don't have any info on the idle spring yet, but people are putting a 1/8 shim on the main spring to raise when it starts cutting fuel. I think I will do the same.
If anyone has some more knowledge on this governor style I'm all ears!
