2H. weird oil leak front engine...

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I was being a bit sarcastic, it can be done in the vehicle but it will be a pain. I'm certain the radiator, condenser, and grill would need to come out at a minimum and the oil pan will need to be removed along with the stiffening plate and pickup and feed tubes.
 
repentsinner said:
This seems like the most annoyingly inaccessible externally visible gasket ever.
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Lucky you don't have t-case/gearbox seal... Oh Wait...8)

Motor in is OK, little bit of squatting, little bit of tool matching for access.... I would be able to do in my unit;s car park paying a lot of attention to protecting the pavers... I did ours at my boys place, i only live a few blocks away so was easy

We spent more time cleaning down and cleaning up than twisting spanners. Do not wait until you remove the part...Clean as much as you can, then clean more and then clean one more time! It's seriously worth the money to have it steam cleaned, THAT will save you spending a weekend of cleaning
 
@roma042987 were your timing match marks lining up before you disassembled the gear set? Mine is like @robertbruce, I'm not sure how many turns to do to get any of it lined up, but it certainly doesn't seem to want to in 'factory' config. Honestly though I don't know who might have monkey'd with this in the 31 years since it left the factory. Seems like a mission to 'try and see' to keep putting it together and tearing it down to this point, so whoever was in here previously either knew what they were doing, or the factory just put things together in a way that it worked, but without real regard for the match marks?

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Hmm, I wonder if I should advance IP when I put it back together, I do have an aftermarket turbo.

I just turned everything a bunch more times and got the crank, IP gear and camshaft gear to line up, looks like someone had this apart and didn't bother matching the idle gear marks but did get the others to match? Either that or it takes a lot of turns to get the idle gears to match the others, and matching 0 with 1 is some permutation of all of that..

I think this is confirmation enough of my current timing, and if I just put it back together using the factory match marks it should still run when I'm done :p

Next question: what's the inner thread on the IP gear / timer contraption to use with a puller?

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one of the elements that makes using the factory settings difficult is the IP cog is spring mounted which allows it to advance its timing when needed.

in the end we didn't rely on the timing marks. I spent a couple of hours finding TDC paying a lot of attention to the fly wheel nudging it one tooth this way and another tooth that way until i was satisfied i had tdc, then we made our own timing marks...that was much much easier then using the timing marks and/or ip/pump spurt metod

repentsinner said:
Next question: what's the inner thread on the IP gear / timer contraption to use with a puller?

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removing the front ip cog will put you in a world of pain setting the ip timing back up again. Instead, loosen the 3 or four bolts on the cabin side of the IP, undo the injector lines and the whole IP comes out complete with the timing plate intact, Install requires no timing fiddlings but do get the correct spanner for the fuel lines.
 
Hmm, looks to me like the IP shaft/gear is keyed, so if I use the marks it should go back in correctly relative to the crank unless the IP pump pattern doesn't fire all pumps in one revolution of the pump? Seems unlikely that it's further internally gear reduced though..

Does this cast plate stay with the pump or the gear housing? It seems to me like once the gears are all out, the gear housing can come forward without needing to remove the IP or this plate, but I trust your and @roma042987's judgement on this more than my own since you've already been through here :)

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I didn't bother with checking timing marks for disassembly. It would take way too any rotations to try to link them all back up by spinning engine. Would be better off pulling idlers and put each cog in time that way. I pulled my ip as a whole so haven't messed with the timer on it. My 60 thread in my sig has a lot of photos that may help.
 
repentsinner said:
Hmm, looks to me like the IP shaft/gear is keyed, so if I use the marks it should go back in correctly relative to the crank unless the IP pump pattern doesn't fire all pumps in one revolution of the pump? Seems unlikely that it's further internally gear reduced though..

Does this cast plate stay with the pump or the gear housing? It seems to me like once the gears are all out, the gear housing can come forward without needing to remove the IP or this plate, but I trust your and @roma042987's judgement on this more than my own since you've already been through here :)

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you'll find you can turn the ip cog and it will spring back and yes, the Oil Pump/Timing-case will come forward once the cam and ip cog are removed, but reinstalling the spring-back assembly is tricky.

yes, the plate circled in blue comes off with the IP, a much much easier method.

i made my own TDC sensor. Basically two bits of coathanger wire. One is a plunger onto the piston that is firmly attached at one end to the longer "indicator wire". Once a pivot point is found it is suitably sensitive to make a reading which can then be crossed referenced with a mark on the flywheel.
 
Just wanted to check back in here and say thanks for all of the guidance @robertbruce and @roma042987.

I finally found some time to work on this thing recently, which was actually the hardest thing to get :p And you're right, cleaning was worse than turning spanners, although some of the pushrod cover bolts at the rear were pretty annoying to get to with the engine in. Getting the old paper gaskets off was a bit of a nightmare, they felt like they were more solid than the aluminum that they were stuck to :( I still don't have a good solution for that. I guess if I had the space for a large parts cleaner tank then maybe soaking them for a few days would have helped, but with the facility I've got I ended up spending that few days manually scraping with a carbide scraper.

The only suggestion I've got for someone following down this path in the future is to start with a solvent-based aerosol can degreaser to get things cleaned up before you begin. That stuff works orders of magnitude better than the water based degreasers for this type of project.

Everything is back together and the engine runs (roughly) on its own, so hopefully I'm a valve adjustment away from this part of this project being complete.

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If you've already done one, you're more than half way there! The opportunities to do stuff like this when torn all the way down to the frame are (hopefully) few and far between, so might as well get the most of it while you're already down that far :)
 
Sorry to dust off this thread but I am having an issue identifying a potentially similar leak, however it could be coming from the gasket valve cover or the head gasket itself...there's no high oil pressure though or over heating.

We redid the crank seal about a year ago but the leak was mostly around the sump, this leak is at the top and bottom now...I've added a few pictures, also there were tiny little bubbles being released by the head gasket (picture 3)...very confusing !

Full engine rebuild at 124185km we're at 197370km now, oil changes every 7000km, always looked after her correctly! Hopefully someone could help me out! Cheers !

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Sure looks like a rocker cover gasket leak to me.. A very thorough degrease and pressure clean and a letting it idle up to temperature should be enough to positively diagnose it.
 
Thanks man ! I'll clean her up and check for leakage. Any ideas about the tiny tiny bubbling near the gasket ? (Picture with arrow) Cheers !
 
I missed the "tiny bubbles" thing.. sorry. Hmm yes, concerning. Any chance of a video after a thorough clean? It may be worth considering a check of the head bolt torques given your semi-recent rebuild.
 
duncanrm said:
I missed the "tiny bubbles" thing.. sorry. Hmm yes, concerning. Any chance of a video after a thorough clean? It may be worth considering a check of the head bolt torques given your semi-recent rebuild.
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Could you tell me the location of the head bolts lol sorry kind of a noob !
 
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