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- #21
Frame's finally back from the galvanizing shop (Moore Quality Galvanizing in Madera CA, find your closest shop with this handy locator)! This one's definitely not rusting out on me 
Builds Grumble Deluxe (2 Viewers)
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- #22
And for posterity, here are a few reasons why I'm going to all of this trouble...
This much rust fell out of the HJ60 frame every time I did anything under the vehicle:
The frame was basically Swiss cheese patched over and then covered in undercoating. Not really happy with the PO, but what can you do..
Bunch of holes near the rear wheel wells were letting water and dust up into the cab in relatively large volume.
If anyone can explain to me Toyota's wisdom in the engineering of this part of the wheel well please enlighten me. The external bracing traps moisture and almost all 60s I've looked at now have some amount of rust through here, even the new one I've got
This much rust fell out of the HJ60 frame every time I did anything under the vehicle:
The frame was basically Swiss cheese patched over and then covered in undercoating. Not really happy with the PO, but what can you do..
Bunch of holes near the rear wheel wells were letting water and dust up into the cab in relatively large volume.
If anyone can explain to me Toyota's wisdom in the engineering of this part of the wheel well please enlighten me. The external bracing traps moisture and almost all 60s I've looked at now have some amount of rust through here, even the new one I've got
30 year old engineering
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- #24
Ambitious project - thanks for the photos. Reminds me of some of the postings on the 'Bring a Trailer' website, titled 'Where they Rust' - that show where classic cars rust out. But, most of us know where 60 series rust out! If you're not crazy about 60 series rust-prone areas, you'd better skip buying an FJ55!
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- #27
Body is back up on the chassis!
Yeah definitely learning about rust, the old one had a hard time of it with 28 years in the non-stop wet of Vancouver. If I can get another 28 years out of this new build I'll be pretty happy
Finally had Georg tap the manifold for the EGT while he had the engine out, curious to see how the turbo is doing.
Yeah definitely learning about rust, the old one had a hard time of it with 28 years in the non-stop wet of Vancouver. If I can get another 28 years out of this new build I'll be pretty happy
Finally had Georg tap the manifold for the EGT while he had the engine out, curious to see how the turbo is doing.
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- #29
Asphalt (and 30 years of spilled lunch) removal, dry ice style.
Not sure how to get it off the inside of body panels, I had to hit the stuff on the floor pretty hard with the dead blow to get it to crack free.
Not sure how to get it off the inside of body panels, I had to hit the stuff on the floor pretty hard with the dead blow to get it to crack free.
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- #30
Of course it seems like even in a relatively clean CA cruiser there's going to be inevitable body rust in (what I'm learning to be the usual) places.
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- #31
Forgot to grab the headliner, seat belts, and window seals from the HJ before it ended up in the graveyard. Damn hindsight.
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- #32
Finally started pulling some 12V circuits to the cab so I can run the Stack gauges.
For some reason the EGT must have a different firmware as it can't seem to hold a white backlight color, but I've had these things sitting for more than a year now so I'm not sure if I can get Stack to honor a warranty or upgrade. The pro control features are pretty nice though, can dial in min/max points and have the gauge display a warning or sound an alarm if you go under/over. Since I don't really care to watch gauges all the time this is a handy feature.
And once the gauges were up I discovered that the waste gate actuator wasn't really doing much (stuck open), so now I'm actually getting some boost (0.5 bar == 7psi) before it opens. Picking up boost/vac pressure from right before the butterfly valve in the throttle. I think this used to be the crankcase blowby vent from before the turbo was installed? I can't remember. Haven't figured out how to zero the boost gauge, given that I make about 0.5bar max, having it off by approx -0.06 is kind of significant.
Took me a while to come up with a set of adaptors to install the oil temp into the line going to the turbo (seemed the easiest place to pick it up). Remind me to start a business that custom-makes pipe fittings with whatever threads you need/want instead of having to stack up 5-6 adaptors to change from metric/NPT/flare/etc.
For some reason the EGT must have a different firmware as it can't seem to hold a white backlight color, but I've had these things sitting for more than a year now so I'm not sure if I can get Stack to honor a warranty or upgrade. The pro control features are pretty nice though, can dial in min/max points and have the gauge display a warning or sound an alarm if you go under/over. Since I don't really care to watch gauges all the time this is a handy feature.
And once the gauges were up I discovered that the waste gate actuator wasn't really doing much (stuck open), so now I'm actually getting some boost (0.5 bar == 7psi) before it opens. Picking up boost/vac pressure from right before the butterfly valve in the throttle. I think this used to be the crankcase blowby vent from before the turbo was installed? I can't remember. Haven't figured out how to zero the boost gauge, given that I make about 0.5bar max, having it off by approx -0.06 is kind of significant.
Took me a while to come up with a set of adaptors to install the oil temp into the line going to the turbo (seemed the easiest place to pick it up). Remind me to start a business that custom-makes pipe fittings with whatever threads you need/want instead of having to stack up 5-6 adaptors to change from metric/NPT/flare/etc.
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- #33
Rust removal and patch prep. Not sure what that middle layer is made from but there's something between the sheet metal of the body and the body mount ribs that started rusting and forcing everything apart in here.
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- #34
Prepped with a 2K-in-a-can epoxy, SS patches glued in with 3M body panel adhesive. Kind of amazing what you can find on Amazon these days
So far everything seems to be holding up well, both the 2K and body panel are rust inhibitors and I didn't have to learn how to weld sheet metal (or buy/beg/borrow a welder).
Oh yeah, and modern VOC masks are _amazing_! Couldn't smell a thing from the 2K until I took the mask off, then it nearly knocked me out.
So far everything seems to be holding up well, both the 2K and body panel are rust inhibitors and I didn't have to learn how to weld sheet metal (or buy/beg/borrow a welder).
Oh yeah, and modern VOC masks are _amazing_! Couldn't smell a thing from the 2K until I took the mask off, then it nearly knocked me out.
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- #35
Couple of random inspirations from a camping trip in the eastern Sierras while I'm catching up on pics.
This guy from LA had a Wrangler "Arctic Edition" and didn't want to drive it any further up that road, and saw this bumper mount jerry can holder on the way back. Git 'er dun?
This guy from LA had a Wrangler "Arctic Edition" and didn't want to drive it any further up that road, and saw this bumper mount jerry can holder on the way back. Git 'er dun?
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- #36
Discovered that you can only drive so far on a leaky rad before it's time to get it rodded out and re-sealed.. Because of course I need more side projects 
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- #37
During the rebuild I had Georg put in an Advance Adapters 4:1 low range kit in the transfer case. I'm not sure if it's my imagination or what but it is definitely noisier than I remember the stock case at highway speed (basically anything over 45mph). The extra low is great with the diesel though, I can idle up almost anything now
While I was doing the sheet metal patch work I cut some filler pieces to hold some sound deadening material closer to the transmission and t-case shifter to try and block some of the noise better.
Forgot to get a pic of the constrained layer damper (aluminum-backed butyl), but here's the closed-cell foam isolation layer and mass-loaded vinyl barrier layer. If there's enough room under the carpet I might double up over the hump, will see how it sounds (or hopefully doesn't sound) first I guess.
All materials from sounddeadenershowdown, if you look on the "vehicle packages" page there's a cut list for a 60.
While I was doing the sheet metal patch work I cut some filler pieces to hold some sound deadening material closer to the transmission and t-case shifter to try and block some of the noise better.
Forgot to get a pic of the constrained layer damper (aluminum-backed butyl), but here's the closed-cell foam isolation layer and mass-loaded vinyl barrier layer. If there's enough room under the carpet I might double up over the hump, will see how it sounds (or hopefully doesn't sound) first I guess.
All materials from sounddeadenershowdown, if you look on the "vehicle packages" page there's a cut list for a 60.
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- #38
More random inspiration from some recent travels.
The '49 Ford F-47 was completed by a good friend of mine who recently passed, he was kind enough to let me drive it as a 'rental' whenever I go home to Vancouver to visit my folks. Can't remember what sized crate motor it's got in it but it gets up and goes. Suspension has been rebuilt so the whole rig corners as flat as my S2000.
Saw the red mini rig down east of San Diego somewhere, no idea what it's for but I like that someone built it.
The '49 Ford F-47 was completed by a good friend of mine who recently passed, he was kind enough to let me drive it as a 'rental' whenever I go home to Vancouver to visit my folks. Can't remember what sized crate motor it's got in it but it gets up and goes. Suspension has been rebuilt so the whole rig corners as flat as my S2000.
Saw the red mini rig down east of San Diego somewhere, no idea what it's for but I like that someone built it.
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- #39
I have this ridiculous idea that eventually I can cram a full length (80") mattress in the back of the rig for expedition use, but discovered that 80" from the tailgate is pretty much up into the driver compartment.
While trying to figure out the body design differences between the '86 HJ that I'd previously mounted the Tuffy console into and the "new" '84 I thought that maybe I could put the console on rails like the seats so that it could be slid back so I don't smash my hand on it while wheeling, and slid forward to give it enough clearance for the mattress. I even started googling for "locking slide rails" before I remembered that I had a set from the previous seats that I couldn't use since the seat mount pattern had changed.
Some cutoff wheel, 2x1" aluminum tubing and a convoluted assembly process later, and I have a sliding console
While trying to figure out the body design differences between the '86 HJ that I'd previously mounted the Tuffy console into and the "new" '84 I thought that maybe I could put the console on rails like the seats so that it could be slid back so I don't smash my hand on it while wheeling, and slid forward to give it enough clearance for the mattress. I even started googling for "locking slide rails" before I remembered that I had a set from the previous seats that I couldn't use since the seat mount pattern had changed.
Some cutoff wheel, 2x1" aluminum tubing and a convoluted assembly process later, and I have a sliding console
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- #40
Finally got Onshape to export a vector drawing compatible with a waterjet machine and did a first test cut of a rearview RAM mount to hold a GPS.
I don't know how to paste an Onshape link to the part in here but I did make it public in case you want to go cut your own. PM me and we can figure out how to get you set up.
Cut from 3/16" sheet and counter sink for a flat head 1/4-20 screw.
I drilled through the back of the GPS clip and put another RAM ball on because I got tired of the non-tensionable Garmin ball wobbling all over the place.
Time to start fabricating more parts
I don't know how to paste an Onshape link to the part in here but I did make it public in case you want to go cut your own. PM me and we can figure out how to get you set up.
Cut from 3/16" sheet and counter sink for a flat head 1/4-20 screw.
I drilled through the back of the GPS clip and put another RAM ball on because I got tired of the non-tensionable Garmin ball wobbling all over the place.
Time to start fabricating more parts