2H. weird oil leak front engine...

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

R

robertbruce

10 Year
Joined
Mar 20, 2015
Threads
26
Messages
81
If a 2H front main seal is leaking will there be lateral spray mess on the rails, alt, etc?

Goz's HJ rails, alt etc has no oil on it but there is grunge on the front covers, bottom thermo cover etc

It only seems to leak once the engine is fully warmed up taking a half an hour for the leak to appear..
One drip every 30 secs untill the block cools, no noticable increase in oil consumption.

HJ60 with 2H w/MV Turbo
manys for any help on this

IMG_3924 - Copy.webp
 
I guess it might be .. lots of air around that area so to spread the oil .?

did you attempt to clean that area in order to isolate the oil leak source .?
 
When I first turbocharged my 2H, there was a kink in the crankcase ventilation tube. The crankcase got pressurized and the seals that blew were on the timing covers. Looks like you might have the same problem, though it's hard to tell from the angle the photo is taken at.
 
we had another good look at it today...
looks like the rear timing case seal needs redoing....

please please tell us is a easy job, with no messing with timing or injector pump




IMG_3924%20-%20Copy.jpg
 
Freewheel said:
When I first turbocharged my 2H, there was a kink in the crankcase ventilation tube. The crankcase got pressurized and the seals that blew were on the timing covers. Looks like you might have the same problem, though it's hard to tell from the angle the photo is taken at.
Click to expand...

forgot to ask where the crancase vent is?
 
Not an easy job, mine does the same.
If I remember correctly I decided against fixing the gasket because the camshaft and gear needs to come out to remove the back timing cover, which means pull out radiator,crank pulley,fan,lifters, etc... I can live with the leak
 
is your leaking from the rear here?
is tempting to put a good sealant on it as an experiment onnly tho'

im hoping the case will slip over the cam
2hTimingCaseOilPumpBody_1.jpg
 
The crankcase vent is on top of the valve rocker cover and is an elbow that connects to a hose that will go to your air intake.

Replacing the timing cover gaskets is a bit of a fearsome job, with the camshaft and valve lifters needing to be removed. I had to rebuild my engine a few months ago, so it got fixed then along with most of the blowby that caused the leak in the first place. I put up with the leak for a couple of years... and I usually tackle even big problems pretty quickly.

Sorry for the bad news.

I thought about sealing the leak from the outside, but never got around to it, thinking that it was a bit of a long shot - please report if that works!
 
nearly took mine off recently,(had to do release valve....but got it out before i took the back plate off)....the cam gear has to come out to get back plate out(unless someone corrects me on that comment)...and the gear is pressed onto the cam.so its a bugger for you me thinks.
20140528_122419.webp
20140529_083335.webp
 
i like this manual...manual .....Page 244. It doesnt say to remove the camshaft, just it's timing gear. It does list the full camshaft/lifter removal in another section. The idler gears pull from stubby shafts, the casing sits between the gear and shaft.

Yep, those cogs' ill be crazy hard to crack, hopefully the pullers ive got will handel it. The crank pulley look wickard hard!

many thank for posting those pics

re a good sealant - i think it would definetly work as a temp fix. We've got an inch of gasket missing, feelers pass thru easy, previously the leak was sealed by oil grunge, baked and matured over many years. It only leaked when pushed hard or long time hot & would "heal" when cold.
 
@robertbruce did you manage to replace your rear timing case seal? I just discovered mine has blown wide open, as a leak here sprays directly into the main fan air path which helpfully distributes oil evenly throughout the entire engine bay :frown:. Easy to spot the aftermath, hard to clean up enough to find the actual source of the oil.

Since it's a U-shaped seal, I wonder what the feasibility is of sliding the case forward slightly without having to break all of the gears off their various shafts, and then slipping a new gasket down in place. I guess that assumes that the old gasket will come out cleanly, which I suppose is more wishful than realistic. Also I have no idea how the bottom of that gasket mates with anything else to prevent it from leaking down there. I guess it ends up in the seal of the oil pan?

This sounds like a heck of a job to take care of.

2017-02-04 18.26.38_Ink_LI.webp
 
Last edited:
Leave it alone till u get to rebuild that engine sometime. Then u can reseal the whole thing. Although the gasket sticking out in the picture above, baffles me..
 
Last edited:
Would love to ignore this one (like I'm ignoring the tcase and steering box leaks which just drip slowly out the bottom and make a limited mess of things), but this one is really is getting oil everywhere thanks to the fan. It's not so much that I'm concerned about running low on oil, but that it makes working on anything else in the engine bay a nightmare. Should have taken some before pics..
 
there is a putty product available that my mechanic said works really well poking it thoroughly into the crack...
But my son and I pulled ours down. It's an easy job, but it's very involved and very time consuming. My biggest worry was the IP but it can come off with it's timing bracket intact making re-install easy with no IP timing fiddling, buy the proper spanner for the fuel lines....cog driven timing gear makes the engine timing easy, just mark them off before pulling it down... disturbing the cam is regretful but it must be removed to get the timing/oil-pump case off.
The TC/OP case bolts are very tricky. There is four different sizes. Make sure you press the bolts into a piece of cardboard in the order of removal to make install easy.
We also replaced the very worn lifters at $18 each. Engine timing took a couple of goes.
As a father and son job we had a blast!
 
our timing marks would not line up, probably as a result of the advancing or retarding the timing typicaly done to right a aftermarket turbo...we turned and turned that thing but to no avail. I went as far as getting onto a mathamatical forum giving then tooth and cog sizes to see if the timing would ever cycle around....we got it to tdc on the right cylinder and oin the right flywheel cog using a home-made tdc "diviner".

It pays to fab, mod or buy a tool to lock-off the flywheel after setting the timing marks
 
roma042987 said:
I doubt you'll be able to remove the cam gear without pulling the cam shaft. Injection pump will need to be removed as well. Good luck doing it with the engine installed lol
Click to expand...

Thanks for the great pics @roma042987, makes more sense now how all of this goes together. Kind of hard to really understand all of it from the line drawings in the FSM. Damn your build looks clean, that's impressive. :clap:

@robertbruce were you able to replace your gasket with engine installed, or did you do it as part of other work with the engine out? As much as I'd like a father/son job on this my dad lives 1300 miles away and all the good tools are with him, not the vehicle :P

This seems like the most annoyingly inaccessible externally visible gasket ever. I might try to loosen things up enough to poke the broken gasket back in, and see if that'd let me drive the rig to @orangefj45 instead of having to trailer it. I'm not really set up here to be pulling engines or fabricating gear pullers, as much fun as that sounds.

Thanks for the suggestions all, will ponder a bit...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom