2f oil pump prime
- Thread starter syaich
- Start date
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rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
If you have an old dizzy it is easy enough to strip it down and mount it to a drill. I suppose you could also hack the handle off of a long shaft flathead screwdriver and drive that. You should be able to hear the oil draining back into the pan to confirm that you are doing it right.
Take a 1/4" slot head screw driver with at least a 6" shank protruding from the handle. Cut the handle off, put shank into chuck of drill. Remove distributor, insert your new invent a tool and seat it into the slot in the oil pump at the bottom of the distributor hole. Turn on drill and watch gauge for pressure or pull off valve cover and look for oil.
If you have a old distributor and prime on a regular basis like I do, a SST can be made as in the pic below.........
- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks guys! I appreciate the help an I especially like the custom SST. One last question, if the pump was primed after the rebuild (been sitting for a year), is it good practice to re-prime or should I just let the distributor run up the oil? Again, the is a first start after the rebuild. Thanks again.
Prime again...... be safe........
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
I have never encountered an F series engine which does not self prime just fine. If you to want to prime it before you drop the distributor in, I use piece of metal rid with one end ground flat and chuck the other end into a drill. Much longer and easier to work with than an old screwdriver.
For the 2-3F motors... Even easier... rip the end of an old oil filter open and take the guts out. Mount it on the engine and pour oil into it. Give it a while and it will seep into the bearings via the oil galleys and it will also prime the pump from the top. If you already have the distributor in, this avoids pulling it if you do not trust the pump to self prime.
Mark...
For the 2-3F motors... Even easier... rip the end of an old oil filter open and take the guts out. Mount it on the engine and pour oil into it. Give it a while and it will seep into the bearings via the oil galleys and it will also prime the pump from the top. If you already have the distributor in, this avoids pulling it if you do not trust the pump to self prime.
Mark...
You can sit there and look for oil all day long, but you wont see anything coming from the rockers. Crank must be cranking or for any oil to be delievered up there. just pull the oil filter and make sure there is oil there and call it good.
I have...........
You can by aligning the holes in the cam with the block passage.... rotation set just before #1 TDC..........
The pic illustrates what a "INSUFFICIENT LUBE MONSTER" might look like.........
Be aware........ there's one lurking...........
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
I prelube my engines pretty heavily on assembly, but I have to admit it is seldom that I do not primne the pump just to be sure.... but when I have not... so far, it has not been an issue. But I have no derisre to test my theory when it is so easy to prime it by spinning or back filling.
Mark...
Mark...
Premo!!
What suspension??
Reason I ask: your front looks a little to far forward...... the shock is off kilter a bit......
What suspension??
Reason I ask: your front looks a little to far forward...... the shock is off kilter a bit......
- Thread starter
- #13
Safari 4.5 inch with 1 inch body lift. Funny thing, you are the second person to comment that the front looks a little too far forward. The shock is slightly off kilter becase I had to clock the front end four degress to lessen the degree of angle on the driveshaft. After it was clocked, the shock wouldn't mount on the tower so I switched the top mounting from the front to the rear. Ideas on the suspension looking too far forward?
try flip em?
Driveline.......
So if you keep it the way it sits now, how does the front shaft look?....
Any chance of slip yoke separation when the front drive flexes ??........
So if you keep it the way it sits now, how does the front shaft look?....
Any chance of slip yoke separation when the front drive flexes ??........
- Thread starter
- #16
If I keep it the way it is, the front shaft looks good. With the 4 degree clock on the axle and extended drive-shaft length, I think I'm in good position. Said another way, a stock shaft was way too short and steep. Recipe for u-joint failure guaranteed.
No chance of front yoke slippage. I had the shaft lengthened to account for the increase in stretch or what I thought was due to the lift height.. Any other foreseeable issues if left alone?
No chance of front yoke slippage. I had the shaft lengthened to account for the increase in stretch or what I thought was due to the lift height.. Any other foreseeable issues if left alone?
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Can someone explain to me what "priming the oil pump" consists of and why one would want to do it (please excuse my ignorance). I am just putting together my '82 2F and had the oil pan and dizzy pulled. I want to know if I need to do something with my oil pump prior to starting the motor back up when the rebuild is complete.
The concern would be running the engine, with "dry bearings" for a significant period of time before the oil pump has a chance to get oil up to all the bearings.
The "dump oil through the system through a cut-open oil filter" seems like a pretty good solution to this issue on a 2F (See Post #7). Obviously you don't want to run it with the cut-open filter...
Rocky
The "dump oil through the system through a cut-open oil filter" seems like a pretty good solution to this issue on a 2F (See Post #7). Obviously you don't want to run it with the cut-open filter...
Rocky
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
If there is no oil in the pump on start up, it is possible that the suction created with just air in there will not be enough to pull oil up from the pan. Priming the pump ensures that there is oil in it before the engine is started. it also pushes oil through the system to ensure that everything that needs oil has oil immediately when the engine starts. The chances of your pump not picking up and pushing oil immediately are low. But it can happen.
The pump can be primed by spinning it, independent of the the engine, before the distributor is inserted... or by back filling it via the filter. Both are explained above in this thread.
Mark...
The pump can be primed by spinning it, independent of the the engine, before the distributor is inserted... or by back filling it via the filter. Both are explained above in this thread.
Mark...
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