Found an nearly all original 1978 FJ with a 2f. Wondering what would be the best thing to put in the cylinders before firing it? Hasn't run in about 8 yrs.
2F Not started for 8 yrs.What should i use in cyl. before statr?
- Thread starter lg405
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Change the oil.
I would blow air around all plugs to clean the pockets. Pop all the plugs. With a hose, put 1oz. of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder. Put the plugs back in. Pop the valve cover, spray marvel mystery oil on the valve stems and seals. Let it sit for a couple days.
Pull the plugs and put a ratchet on the crank. Ratchet it ( if not seized) for 20 min. It should be ready to crank with the starter.
I would blow air around all plugs to clean the pockets. Pop all the plugs. With a hose, put 1oz. of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder. Put the plugs back in. Pop the valve cover, spray marvel mystery oil on the valve stems and seals. Let it sit for a couple days.
Pull the plugs and put a ratchet on the crank. Ratchet it ( if not seized) for 20 min. It should be ready to crank with the starter.
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Oh yeah, I forgot about Marvels. I was thinking of some kind of penetrating oil. Isn't tht stuff for stuck lifters and such? Well Anyways Thanks
I did the above with my 62, had not run in 2 years for sure based on PO never starting it and probably 5 years based on posts I have found on here where it was talked about being sold, post even had the vin number. So 5 years is my best guess. I probably put in 4 or more ounces in and let it sit for a week then put in some more probably an ounce the second time and turned it over by hand then let is sit for a few days. Then cranked it with plugs out. If the pistons are not level 1 ounce might not soak the rings all the way around was my theory. After several spells of cranking it with no plugs did a compression test. All tested over 130. If any came in well under 100 I would have done more work to make sure no problems were hiding that starting it would make worse. Ran a line from my fuel pump to a jug of gas, hit it with some starter fluid and it started right up and idled very smoothly. It will not start without starting fluid so Carb likely still needs some cleaning, but it runs and sounds good. That was two weeks ago. I start it every few days just for the fun of it.
no need to hand crank it for 20 minutes...
just spray some wd40 or pb or marvel in each cylinder let it sit a bit turn it over once or twice by hand with plugs out, if i moves freely put plugs in and hit the key and let her run! you can pour some gas in the carb to prime it.
just spray some wd40 or pb or marvel in each cylinder let it sit a bit turn it over once or twice by hand with plugs out, if i moves freely put plugs in and hit the key and let her run! you can pour some gas in the carb to prime it.
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I'm in KC. We have had a lot of snow lately. But then So have you I expect?
This is my second 40 and hope it sticks around a while. This one does not have power steering so thats high on the list of to do's.
assuming that it runs as PO say's it will.
This is my second 40 and hope it sticks around a while. This one does not have power steering so thats high on the list of to do's.
assuming that it runs as PO say's it will.
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
If you feel ambitious you could prime the oil system just to be on the safe side. Below is a link to just that subject.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/345268-2f-oil-pump-prime.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/345268-2f-oil-pump-prime.html
Alot of this depends on what it looks like in the cylinders. I would look in there with a flashlight to see where you stand. Valves were open so moisture got into some of the cylinders. If you can see rust on the cylinder wall then you need to take it easy turning it over for awhile. I don't use starting fluid on gas engines, it can create way too much pressure, prime with a little gas and it will start. If it looks real bad then it might be cheaper to pop the head ( cost of head gasket) and clean it up. I have been very careful and still broke a ring. The goal is to start it and let it idle for a couple minutes. Let it cool down and start again. While it was sitting a rust ridge has built up in the cylinders.
nice looking WARRIOR.......i put marvel Mystery oil in my 1950 Chevy panel,. i changed oil, put in 2 bottles of MM--Oil and let it sit, ( turned fan by hand every day or 2) it had not ran since 1976........that was about 2005............put gas line in a plastic gas tank, little gas in the carb, new battery.,and it cranked right up.................good luck keep us updated
First post here (be gentle). Im in a similar situation to the OP, I have a 77 FJ that hasn't started in around 7 years, to add to that at some stage while sitting in the backyard the cover over the carby ripped and got rained on, I don't think too much water got in, but should I pull the head to be safe? I have turned the motor maybe 45degrees and it is not seized and didn't feel "clunky" or stiff.
In short should I use the Marvel Mystery Oil method or should I pull the head.
Thanks
Brendan
In short should I use the Marvel Mystery Oil method or should I pull the head.
Thanks
Brendan
Pull the plugs and let your flashlight tell the story. Marvel oil can't hurt if it has been 7 years.
Jaffa, if it were me I would do the marvel oil, plus some heavy wd40 spray down the carb. If you already can turn it by hand is a good sign. I have been told the marvel oil is to help unstick the rings, if you turn an old engine you can damage the rings if stuck, and if not stuck will help lube the walls. I have also learned the rings can stick in the piston not to the walls and this can help with that. Like in the above posts I turned mine over 1 or twice each day for a few days before I used the starter motor. I figured better way save then real sorry. I do not think mentioned above, but recommended to me on an earlier post I did on the same subject, once started use sea foam to clean out the inside real well. You can google it, you basically allow this to be sucked up via a vacuum line or a sray in the carb to realy clean out the cylinders, free up sticky rings etc. Have not done mine yet, but on the list once I am willing to let it run up to operating temperature.
Be very careful of Rusted valve stems, and valves.
Also where the valves were open these cylinders could have rust as well.
I would prefer to remove the cylinder head and do a full inspection before bench testing or running a motor that has been standing for some time.
Also where the valves were open these cylinders could have rust as well.
I would prefer to remove the cylinder head and do a full inspection before bench testing or running a motor that has been standing for some time.
I am not a WRENCH but I am a gunsmith, WD-40 is THE DEVIL steer well clear of it. It is NOT a lubricant, when fresh it does lubricate then it turns into a very pretty GOLDEN GUM. Once that happens about the only thing that can remove it is MORE WD-40. WD-40 was developed for the Navy to remove water from electronics in missiles. WD in the name stands for Water Displacing, it does a great job of that and the gummy film is waterproof.
My FJ40 hadn't run for 20+ years when I picked it up. I pulled the plugs and sprayed WD40 down the cylinders and then turned over the engine by hand each day for about a week. Had I read EldarKinSlayer's post about WD40, I would have used Marvel Mystery Oil down the cylinders instead. I actually bought a container of Marvel for this purpose at the time, but several members thought WD40 was fine, so this is the path I took.
Also, in replacing the oil, I pulled the valve cover to check for any rust and refilled the cruiser by pouring the oil over the valve and rocker arm assembly -- not sure if it was necessary, but figured it would give a better coat.
Also, in replacing the oil, I pulled the valve cover to check for any rust and refilled the cruiser by pouring the oil over the valve and rocker arm assembly -- not sure if it was necessary, but figured it would give a better coat.
Spraying WD-40 into cylinder is probably fine, spraying into a carb I can almost guarantee will lead to clogging and sticking.
Thanks, I think I will go with the marvel method, does anyone think it is worthwhile pulling the intake and exhaust manifolds to give the valves a bit of Marvel too?
NOT WD-40, But use MARINE FOGGING OIL instead to coat the cylinders.
Marvel is good for attacking the puddle of rust that forms at the bottom. Let the Marvel work for a couple of days before trying the oil.
When ready to try, put it in 3rd or 4th gear and gently rock the truck. Go slow. I revived a 327 that sat for 23 yrs., although eventually the rings were so shot I was swapping plugs every week.
Oh, and don't lose the little red spray tube down the cylinder.....
Marvel is good for attacking the puddle of rust that forms at the bottom. Let the Marvel work for a couple of days before trying the oil.
When ready to try, put it in 3rd or 4th gear and gently rock the truck. Go slow. I revived a 327 that sat for 23 yrs., although eventually the rings were so shot I was swapping plugs every week.
Oh, and don't lose the little red spray tube down the cylinder.....
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