2F not shutting off via ignition switch (1 Viewer)

[FJ907Warrior]

Finally got my 2F swap started and running on it's own.

Got an issue I think it's going to be the internally regulated alternator, dash wiring, or something I'm not thinking of, but hoping I can get a few pointers on a direction to inspect before tearing in.

Back story:
All wiring is OEM (but completely removed and reinstalled), minus some improvement like converting the engine doners (83 FJ60) internally regulated alternator, which I followed coolermans instructions and am pretty confident it's correct. Otherwise, when the 1f was installed the ignition worked correctly (never had the alternator working). I did have the dash out in between the 2F swap, something could have gotten mixed up.

Currently:
Engine not running, key off & no power to coil.
Engine not running, key on ON/start, power to coil.
Engine running, key off, power to coil.

 

[FJ907Warrior]

Photos as I'm sure they will be requested.

 

[Malleus]

The first thought is a bad ignition switch

 

[Steamer]

One quick test I would try is disconnecting all wires to the alternator and then try starting & stopping the engine.

 

[FJ907Warrior]

One quick test I would try is disconnecting all wires to the alternator and then try starting & stopping the engine.

Did that, issue is not present while alternator is disconnected.

I'm under the impression the alternator 12volts is piggybacking past the ignition (on) circuit through another circuit. After looking at the wiring diagram my suspension is I have something wired wrong in the turn signal area and the power is incorrectly being supplied through the hazard switch.

I'll be digging into it once I get more time.

 

[Steamer]

I’m not familiar with the FJ60 alternator but I do know that some internally regulated alternators like my GM 12si have an output wire for a pilot light. This wire requires a diode in the circuit, so the alternator doesn’t back feed into the system which causes “run on” which is what you’re having. You may want to investigate that.

 

[pb4ugo]

I looked on Coolermans website and couldn't find his instructions on his wiring for a internal regulated alt. Can we see pics of your alt wiring. Are you sure you should have the original voltage regulator still hooked up. As Steamer mentioned you can ad one of the wires from the alt to an idiot light. Usually adding an internal reg alt makes the ammeter not to work. What wire did you use for the large charge wire on the back of the alt or did you add a charge wire going to the batt. You may want to checkout mad electricals' web site for a wiring schematic and their tutorials. They use gm's alt but the principle is the same.

 

[FJ907Warrior]

I looked on Coolermans website and couldn't find his instructions on his wiring for a internal regulated alt. Can we see pics of your alt wiring. Are you sure you should have the original voltage regulator still hooked up. As Steamer mentioned you can ad one of the wires from the alt to an idiot light. Usually adding an internal reg alt makes the ammeter not to work. What wire did you use for the large charge wire on the back of the alt or did you add a charge wire going to the batt. You may want to checkout mad electricals' web site for a wiring schematic and their tutorials. They use gm's alt but the principle is the same.

Gotta go to where he sells the alternator connectors, and the installation instructions are in the product description. Or use this link:

Template

•Thick White and blue wire is connected to B+.
•White and Green wire is to IGN on alternator.
•White and black grounded to alt casing.
•Old field White and green on the old external regular is tied into IGN with white and red, effectively eliminating the external regulator.
• New alternator Yellow and White idiot light capped off

Amp gauge is seemingly working accurately, reading 30+ amps.

 

[FJ907Warrior]

I’m not familiar with the FJ60 alternator but I do know that some internally regulated alternators like my GM 12si have an output wire for a pilot light. This wire requires a diode in the circuit, so the alternator doesn’t back feed into the system which causes “run on” which is what you’re having. You may want to investigate that.

I'll look into this more, thanks!

 

[pb4ugo]

I run an GM alt with my sbc. I've wired mine similar mad electricals site. My charge wire goes directly to the batt. I prefer to charge it instead of running the charge thru the whole wiring harness then to the batt. This makes the ammeter not work though. I actually bypassed the ammeter by connecting its 2 leads together and I run an idiot light. This setup is more contemporary and safer than using the ammeter style charging system, imo.

 

[jcj_78FJ40]

With the 40s, the starter has a 3rd wire that provides power to the coil from the solenoid while cranking. It's not needed for the newer electronic ignition. Any chance this wire is incorrectly hooked up? You might try disconnecting it.

 

[FJ907Warrior]

With the 40s, the starter has a 3rd wire that provides power to the coil from the solenoid while cranking. It's not needed for the newer electronic ignition. Any chance this wire is incorrectly hooked up? You might try disconnecting it.

Currently not present, saw it on the wiring diagram, seemed to just run from starter IGN on starter solenoid to coil. Assume to provide 12v during startup. Haven't added it in yet.

 

[45Dougal]

I think you're getting volts feeding back into your ign line from the alternator excite.
This is because you shorted together the two wires on your external regulator, and your alternator is probably not identical to the one in the installation guide.
Remove these two wires from the external regulator (which you're not using anyway) and install a diode in between as shown in my sketch below. Alternatively, you can connect a panel lamp to the same place - I have a 3W lamp on the dash myself - this comes on with the ignition and only lights up when NOT charging so is quite handy.
If you don't want an "idiot light", then fit a diode. Something like a 1N4001 regulator diode should be fine.

To test that this is the issue, any small 12v bulb should suffice such as a side light bulb which at least you have available!