2F in a FJ60 won't run.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 4, 2009
Threads
11
Messages
46
Location
Jackson Wyoming
HI all,

Picked up my 83 FJ60 from my neighbor today. Got it to started after a minute or two of cranking. Its been sitting for 11 months. 149k on the odometer. It ran for a few seconds then stalled. Feathered the gas and choke and got it to stay running long enough to drive it a block to my garage by holding and feathering the gas pedal. So my question is....where do I start looking for this problem? Could it be a vacuum leak or a cracked manifold or something other? She says it was running fine before last spring when she started it and it started doing this. She almost never had it in 4wd and is eay on the gas type driver. Local shop said it was the carb ($800)then said it could be a manifold ($1400) and then told her there was no guarantee that either of those suggestions would fix the problem??!!!. They also told her that the manual tranny fluid "mixed" with the transfer case fluid and it would cost $1000 to fix that?!! I dont think they were giving her a fair shot. Or maybe they were and I am not nearly the wrench I think I am. Any advice or direction here would be appreciated. I am a noob wrt these engines but not to wrenching motors. Thanks for reading this.
 
In an FJ60 the transmission and transfer case use the same type of oil, so it's not a problem if the fluid mixes. What is a problem is if one drains and fills the other. To repair the seal between the transfer case and transmission requires completely disassembling the transfer case. If you are lucky and the leak is going from the transfer case to the transmission, there is a transfer tube you can purchase from man-a-fre to allow the fluid to flow back into the transfer case. If you want to rebuild the transfer case yourself, you should get the body and chassis manual. You can purchase it from toyota materials distribution, or there is a scanned PDF available here: http://forums.bauchan.org/portal/downloads.php

Regarding the engine, I would start by checking or replacing all the vacuum lines. Do a search about vacuum tubing. I recommend 3mmID silicone tubing and you will need about 30ft. Also you should spend $15 on the 2F emissions manual (assuming it is still stock smoged). You can purchase it from toyota materials distribution. This manual has procedures for troubleshooting the emissions systems and will show you how the vacuum tubing is supposed to be connected.

If you think it is the carburetor you can rebuild it (you will need the 2F engine manual for this), or you can send it to Jim C or Mark A for a professional rebuild.

If you remove the carb you can check the area of the intake below the carb for cracks. This is a place that usually cracks because it is in contact with exhaust gas from the exhust manifold below.

Good Luck.

http://smg.toyotapartsandservice.com/pubs.php?v=&y=&int_id=&done=1
 
1 - Carb - 800 for a new one maybe. 300 for a quality rebuild by JimC or Mark
2 - Manifold crack - probably just a leak. Use a remflex gasket to seal it up.
3 - t/c and tranny seal - common. There is a kit to level the fluids (same weight oil in both) between the high and low.

Nothing too major, and if you got a steal on that low of a mileage 60 - lucky guy!! Start looking in the FAQ for manifold gasket, or do a search. you can tell you have a leak by spraying starting fluid and it will rev when you get near the leak.

Dump the gas, put 1/2 can of seafoam in gas - change fuel filter, put 2nd 1/2 down the carb... You'll know if you have an exhaust leak pretty quick. Do it in an open air spot - lots of white smoke.

Good luck!

rob
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom