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- #21
Was just trying to save time with work and both boys playing sports right now, coaching baseball and my oldest plays Lax. Not a ton of free time, but my buddies will help out also! Thanks for that carb a few months back.
2F front crank oil seal squealing?
- Thread starter houstonfj40
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Was just trying to save time with work and both boys playing sports right now, coaching baseball and my oldest plays Lax. Not a ton of free time, but my buddies will help out also! Thanks for that carb a few months back.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Ah was hoping that was you but didn’t want to mention it if I was wrong. Yeah I hear you on time. I can only do most work on truck when my son isn’t here which are long weekends but that’s also the time I work too.
Are you close enough to Jim, @CenTXFJ60 to go to his barn? Or do you get help more from @HemiAlex? Either way, your lucky. Take the help!
Even specialist Toyota mechanics have issues working on these old trucks sometimes. I think the main issue that arises with mechanics is time. They don't have time to go slow and do it right following the manual each step of the way. They just do it and assume it's correct.
By working on it yourself you have better odds that it will be done right. You will need the SST and the large socket. If you don't have those and don't plan on getting / fabbing your own then pm me and you can borrow mine. Just pay postage and get it back to me afterwards.
By working on it yourself you have better odds that it will be done right. You will need the SST and the large socket. If you don't have those and don't plan on getting / fabbing your own then pm me and you can borrow mine. Just pay postage and get it back to me afterwards.
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- #24
So quick one, can I use the crank nut to pull the HB on then tighten the TC bolts or do I need a driver to seat the pulley the do the nut last?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
No driver. Should slide on by hand. Grease the OD of the shaft and ID of the HB. Remember tho, keep those TC screws loose. Slide the pulley on, grease the nut well, torque nut then tighten the screws, check the fsm for the sequence.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
I think the FSM actually has you has you using an SST to drive the pulley on:
I used the 46MM socket on mine. Maybe a short 4X6 block with a hole cut in it for the crank to pop through. Just a few light taps to seat it. Order I used was:
If you have the FSM I would definitely give it a look before doing this work. Its a lot of steps all at once so its a little chaotic, especially if using sealants of any sort so you want to have in your head the basic steps so you don't have to refer to the FSM. But follow the FSM word for word (which makes no mention of the use of gasket sealants btw) and your truck will thank you. HTH.
I used the 46MM socket on mine. Maybe a short 4X6 block with a hole cut in it for the crank to pop through. Just a few light taps to seat it. Order I used was:
- Place timing cover on engine with bolts finger tight keeping proper location of the bolts (they go in specific places, Be sure to put sealant on two bottom hex head bolts).
- Light coat of MP grease on crank and on the inside lip of the timing cover crank seal. Slide pulley on shaft aligning it with the woodruff key. Should slide on easily.
- Tap pulley into place to seat it into the timing cover seal. I used 46MM socket on the center of the pulley and just 3-4 light taps to seat it in place. Make sure the socket has enough clearance to not impact the end of the crank as you tap the pulley on.
- Oil the inside of the claw nut where the threads will contact the crank. Start it on the crank.
- Tighten the timing cover bolts to proper spec
- Torque the pulley/claw nut on the crank. Be sure to keep the pulley stationary using the threaded holes in the pulley and some type of tool to keep the force of tightening the crank pulley from spinning the engine over. There is some risk of damaging the pulley if using ratchet traps around the belt area to keep the pulley from moving while tightening the claw nut.
If you have the FSM I would definitely give it a look before doing this work. Its a lot of steps all at once so its a little chaotic, especially if using sealants of any sort so you want to have in your head the basic steps so you don't have to refer to the FSM. But follow the FSM word for word (which makes no mention of the use of gasket sealants btw) and your truck will thank you. HTH.
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- #27
- Thread starter
- #28
Robert,
I have FSM in hand and most parts. I may fab something this week to hold pulley. If it rains this weekend (no coaching or games) this will get accomplished.
Did you have any coolant on those bottom bolts, the long ones?
Thank you, Marc
Gretsch
SILVER Star
Coolant? You wouldn't see coolant on them. AFAIK there is no way coolant could end up there. Did you meant sealant? The reason you seal them is because they thread into the front bearing cap and unless sealed, they provide a direct path from the crankcase for engine oil to find the ground. HTH.
I had a some residual coolant from loosening up the Hose from Hell. It had dripped down. I didnt take the hose off, just loosened the clamps to rotate them out of the way.
Also, you can't fit the SST in there if the radiator is in. I was able to slide it onto the proper path on the keyway after putting oil on everything and then lightly tap on the big socket with a hammer sideways. took about 5 min going .5mm at a time. just not much room. then I proceeded to put a bolt back in in the wrong sequence so I'm stuck figuring that out - even made a diagram and everything!
Also, you can't fit the SST in there if the radiator is in. I was able to slide it onto the proper path on the keyway after putting oil on everything and then lightly tap on the big socket with a hammer sideways. took about 5 min going .5mm at a time. just not much room. then I proceeded to put a bolt back in in the wrong sequence so I'm stuck figuring that out - even made a diagram and everything!
Gretsch
SILVER Star
I made a diagram like you and still managed to swap two of the bolts around somehow. Luckily I figured this out before putting everything back together.
Yes agreed here and a good point. I should have clarified with 'assuming no leaks' there is no way coolant should end up there. Coolant can find a way in this area if there are leaks in the hoses, WP gasket, etc. But if everything is working right, AFAIK there is no way to have coolant find its way through these bolts. The sealant on the bolts is for oil, not coolant which it seemed to be what the OP was asking about.
I was assuming, perhaps unfairly, that the radiator would be out of the way when doing this. I wouldn't attempt this myself without removing the radiator and fan shroud as there is little room to do anything with those parts in there and you risk bending up the fins on the radiator. I have figured out in my old age that the extra time spent working around parts blocking access, is usually more than the time spent removing them, so I always remove them. But perhaps not everyone would agree here so its an important point. Maybe you could get away with just the fan shroud and have a enough room to tap on the pulley. I don't recall that myself though. I wouldn't say that removing the radiator is exactly easy on these, especially the A\C equipped ones, but it lessened the frustration level for me when I did mine. Despite what folks say, the radiator can be removed without removing the A\C condenser.
I did front main seal and side cover with radiator in place. With the radiator in place making your own SST is mandatory.
@houstonfj40 i figured out my belt noise. My alternator bracket was bent as I run a Mean Green and they don’t mount perfectly without spacers. I had the wrong size spacer causing it to bend which made the belt run crooked. After warm up it would start with this awful noise. I heated up the bracket, bent it back, got the right spacer and I’m good to go.
