2f carburation options

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Joined
Aug 10, 2009
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Location
Colorado Springs
Great meeting everyone at the last meeting. Looking forward to next opportunity to hit the trail and bounce off a tree or two (it appears to be required before you are an "official" member) with everyone.

I'm hoping for some advise/guidance on my 2f fuel delivery options. I am in need of a rebuild on the stock carburator on the FJ60 but I am curious about the webber carb I see for sale on a couple sites.

Has anyone made this switch? Do you have altitude issues? Is there really an improvement in mileage/performance? Can they be jetted for different altitudes?

I'm leaning towards getting the webber if it really lives up to their marketing but I really don't want to commit without more input.

Any thoughts/suggestions/advise?
 
Looking forward to next opportunity to hit the trail and bounce off a tree or two (it appears to be required before you are an "official" member) with everyone.

:lol:

Just reading this as I got home from a camping trip with Trevor and some of his friends.........and I have to tell everyone that Trevor is now in the "I hit a tree because I was driving too fast in the snow club" Lol, ask him why the plastic bumper trim is missing on his 4runner. :D
 
Great meeting everyone at the last meeting. Looking forward to next opportunity to hit the trail and bounce off a tree or two (it appears to be required before you are an "official" member) with everyone.

I'm hoping for some advise/guidance on my 2f fuel delivery options. I am in need of a rebuild on the stock carburetor on the FJ60 but I am curious about the webber carb I see for sale on a couple sites.

Has anyone made this switch? Do you have altitude issues? Is there really an improvement in mileage/performance? Can they be jetted for different altitudes?

I'm leaning to wards getting the webber if it really lives up to their marketing but I really don't want to commit without more input.

Any thoughts/suggestions/advise?

I believe the weber 38/38 synchronized carb is the suggested one for the 2f engine, you can get a Jet kit that has various sizes of jets, the only thing I have heard is that, people don't like about the 38/38 is the auto choke, people mod it to make it manual again. Also for a little more juice, you can get the direct exhaust manifold from JTO. Thats about all I know, the other thing would be to go with throttle body and use a fuel injection system...there are many options on that subject. Good luck.
 
Just starting my Weber adventure with the 34/34 installed by the PO - I'll let you know how it goes.
 
:lol:

Just reading this as I got home from a camping trip with Trevor and some of his friends.........and I have to tell everyone that Trevor is now in the "I hit a tree because I was driving too fast in the snow club" Lol, ask him why the plastic bumper trim is missing on his 4runner. :D

could have been way worse :popcorn:

and for the record, your truck was towing me out, it was either floor it out, or winch up that entire hill..


the only advise i have for you if you want any significant improvement with performance and fuel economy is a 5.3 Vortech SBC Swap. the only reason id ever mess with a carb again would be for a restoration type rig, if you plan on Using it and driving it alot.. its time to upgrade.
 
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6cyl & carbs

Guess I'll chime in F/2F 6's, and carbs. First off, the stock Asian carb is a 38mm carb. Any thing smaller is not going to be adequate for a 2F. I believe the major differences of the carbs on F and 2F engines have to do with emission controls and the multitude of vacuum lines. And if the PO has "eliminated" some or all of these vacuum lines, looking for more performance, its just not going to run right. "Toyota Trails" has an excellent article on 2F carb and stock setup some years back. I don't know if this article has been archived, but I probably still have it somewhere. I'll look when I get back to Colorado Springs. As for the Weber you have, a 34/34, was probably for a 4 cylinder, but it should probably work, although, the performance envelope will be a little limited. It should have a minimum of vacuum lines, probably for a vacuum advance to the distributor. Jetting may be an issue, as is the float level, but these items, and what they should be, should be available on line or in the "book". Float level is somewhat simple in principle, in that too low will be lean, and too high too rich and prone to flooding. The stock Asian has a float glass that says to set the fuel level in the middle or something like that. That idea was probably great when in, say, 1972, regular was somewhat amber, and ethyl was somewhat red in color. From personal experience, on my '72 FJ40, the level is set somewhat low, and it runs fine, and doesn't flood out even at angles that exceed my personal fear factor. Fuel mileage is also some what consistent at 14mpg around town (just like a new one, but with no danger of the gas pedal sticking!) and all the way up to 16mpg on the highway) Mileage is higher with pure gas and a bit lower when they add the 10% alcohol. It is more difficult to diagnose conditions when the fuel is not pure gasoline too. If jetting is too lean, it will be struggling at WOT. If jetting has been set at a lower elevation, then it will be too rich at CS elevations and higher. Too rich give a blubbering sound, and is sluggish. If your only way to fix this is to lay out an inch high stack of $$, then there are other things to consider. If you can find a stock Asian, (remember, they have 38mm bores) and also, there a lot more good running stock set ups out there than there are Weber setups. Another idea for replacement could be a TBI setup for the 2F using a GM 4.3 throttle body and CPU with all the required sensors and wiring. Downey (which went belly up last July) used to have a complete kit for lotsa $$, or a throttle body adapter and wiring harness, which with your sensors & TB and hundreds of hours of time works quite well. There are also some Rochester 2 barrel setups out there, which do work, but I'm not sure how well. The Rochester's come off smaller GM V8's, like 265's, 283's 305's and so forth, but while the bolt pattern is close it isn't a fit as well as throttle linkage. Advantage is cheap and readily found. And then there is a proven fix which some advocate, is to transplant a SBC with either a quadrajet or TBI and go from there.

Carbs can and do work quite well.

I will be back in CS Thursday evening, and I'd be glad to take a look if you want.

Hope this helps.

Darryl
1972 FJ40 - F with stock carb & K&N & 3 into 2 into 1 header & 2 1/4 exhaust
TLCA 3911
N7EBS
 
:lol:

Just reading this as I got home from a camping trip with Trevor and some of his friends.........and I have to tell everyone that Trevor is now in the "I hit a tree because I was driving too fast in the snow club" Lol, ask him why the plastic bumper trim is missing on his 4runner. :D

What, no spotter? :whoops:
 
What, no spotter? :whoops:

It was a late night thing, even with the full moon, it was pretty dark. I had already slid down a hill and had to winch myself out, then both rigs tied together up a hill. My friend Justin was at the controls of my rig, pulling Trevor up a pretty steep, icy hill on the last stretch out. I was walking up the hill carrying the winch controller in a Miller Lite / Cabo Wabo Tequila induced haze.......so I'm glad Justin was driving. :cheers:

Trevor hitting that tree sounded horrible, I was glad to see the damage was almost nothing. ;) Trevor was working that little 'runner and making it through some amazingly deep snow. Nice drivin' Tevor!

Sorry, not trying to hijack. Just thought it was funny.
 
And if the PO has "eliminated" some or all of these vacuum lines, looking for more performance, its just not going to run right.

I'd have to disagree with this statement, considering many folks remove and plug vac ports and lines when Desmogging 2F engines, with great success and good performance.

with that said, a Desmog must be done correctly, and for sure you dont wanna just start pulling and capping Vac lines. in that case it wont run right for sure.



Back to the subject of this thread, i think a carb rebuild of your stock 2F carb with a recurve of your Dizzy would probably net you some good performance and keep your rig more original - if you care about that type of thing.
 
Thanks for the input--I'm going to suffer along with what I have and spend the money on headers & a new exhaust for now. It's not too bad just yet and I'm going to keep researching. I'd hate to spend a butload of money on the wrong solution!
 
Took the plunge and ordered the Trollhole carb--I'll let everyone know how it goes. It appears to be a European version of the stock carb so it doesn't have all the smog stuff. Vendor is re-jetting for our altitude but including the regular jets. He says it bolts on, attach one wire and two vac lines, adjust mixture and idle and go drive--we'll see.....I figure for $225 shipped I can't go too far wrong. I'll just have to do my de-smog sooner than anticipated
 
Just ran into a guy selling cheap carbs for 2fs. Does anyone know about "Trollhole"? I'm having a hard time figuring out how they stack up against stock and the webbers

I know a few things about those carbs.

A little history.

I bought my second cruiser about 6 years ago. It came with a Weber 38/38. It ran horrible. Was always running rich and every once in a while would backfire through the carb and lock up the choke plate. Symptoms of a a motor with a lot of carbon in the cylinders. I bought the Weber jet kit and tried every single jet and air correctors possible to no avail. So two years later I got fed up and bought a stock carb (78). Rebuilt it and slapped it back on. It ran okay but it still had a lot of ports that either I hooked up incorrectly or they still didn't work right. Plus it was a a carb that was almost 30 years old. My only option at the time was to send it off to JimC or Mark W and plop down 300 dollars on a used carb knowing that it would come back to where all I needed to do was just bolt it on and run. Many people have done this with great success. If you have the money this is what I recommend.

Also sticking with a stockish carb lets you retain your factory throttle linkage as well as your factory carb and fuel line config. With a Weber you are stuck with a crappy little air filter that I really don't feel does a good job of filtering anything, a throttle cable setup that really sucks balls. The cable makes a crazy s shape before it gets to the carb. You have to buy a new gas pedal. The base plates are known to leak. Then you have to figure out what you will do with the choke knob now that it doesn't go to anything. And also reroute your breather hose. Cut your stock fuel line and somehow attach the end to a section of fuel line. And pray that your Weber doesn't have fuel issues where you have to buy a fuel pressure regulator. And on top of all that you still have to desmog your motor and possibly deal with carb issues at steep angles. All the cruisers I have wheeled with that have had a Weber all have had this issue.

This is why a couple years ago I decided I was tired of people paying to much for something that never worked right. So after a year of searching I found a manufacturer who would make these and got an exclusivity agreement to sell them in the US.

Basically they are a non-USA carb that doesn't use any smog stuff. If your state requires smog stuff then my carb is not for you and neither is a Weber. Only one vac line that runs from the carb to the dizzy. The high altitude jets reside right behind the fuel bowl drains and can easily be swapped in less than 5 min. If you ask me I will swap them in before I ship it. You can still retain your A/C idle up stuff as it bolts right on my carb. Something the Weber doesn't have. Fuel line, air cleaner, choke cable, throttle cable all just bolt right up. Installing requires a few basic tools and the only wire you need to cut is the one going to the idle solenoid so you can use your stock connector.

My carb is designed to be simple and easy. There are no bells and whistles on it. I'm selling them for $225 shipped currently. That will probably be going up to $275 shipped on the next batch I'm bringing in.

If you have any questions please send me a PM I'll do my best to answer any question you have.
 
Took the plunge and ordered the Trollhole carb--I'll let everyone know how it goes. It appears to be a European version of the stock carb so it doesn't have all the smog stuff. Vendor is re-jetting for our altitude but including the regular jets. He says it bolts on, attach one wire and two vac lines, adjust mixture and idle and go drive--we'll see.....I figure for $225 shipped I can't go too far wrong. I'll just have to do my de-smog sooner than anticipated

Lol. Just got your paypal right before I wrote the post above.

Talk about timing.
 
I jumped on the bandwagon, should be here friday...we should compare notes...
 
I jumped on the bandwagon, should be here friday...we should compare notes...

I may end up there as well - Mark @ Mark's Offroad found some damage including a cracked housing on mine :crybaby: He's going to give me options tomorrow or Tuesday.
 
I may end up there as well - Mark @ Mark's Offroad found some damage including a cracked housing on mine :crybaby: He's going to give me options tomorrow or Tuesday.

Well, options are a good thing, it's when there are no options that you should be :bang:
 
Well, options are a good thing, it's when there are no options that you should be :bang:

Yea, but going through the options sequentially is getting expensive :censor:
 
40's are cool and all, but I think I would rather spend my time building cool parts for my rig........rather than always repairing rust, rebuilding carbs, or beating myelf to death on the trail........:D



40's = :deadhorse:


ha ha.......I'm just messin' with ya. figured I would generate some trouble, I'm good at that.
 
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